Mini wood stove and almost free heating

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val.du.12@hotmail.fr
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Mini wood stove and almost free heating




by val.du.12@hotmail.fr » 28/07/11, 12:16

Hello I would like to make a small wood stove. Do you think that with a can of 25 high and 15 in diameter lying can you build a small stove? thank you
ps: my idea is to heat water quickly (50 L or more)
Last edited by val.du.12@hotmail.fr the 29 / 07 / 11, 00: 37, 1 edited once.
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 28/07/11, 13:31

There are plenty of models on the internet with good combustion (double) !!!

The sun is also heating, full on the internet too and econology, some mirrors or aluminum foil !!.

The difficulty is the life of the sheet which rust and pierce quickly.

Put refractory bricks or bricks for longer duration.
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stipe
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by stipe » 28/07/11, 13:31

Hello,

I have the impression that making it even is potentially dangerous, if it is poorly designed, you risk the leakage of carbon monoxide which is not good for the complexion ...
In addition to a can or small container, risk of not being resistant to temperature for a long time or even risk of giving off gases unhealthy ...

In your place I will cultivate myself on the Web and on the right on the left on the way of building it myself (if you feel technically to realize something safe for the users ....), but with materials planned for ...
For example:
http://www.bricozone.be/fr/divers/t-con ... 24663.html
ou
http://www.systemed.fr/forum/forum_post ... =9419&PN=1
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by val.du.12@hotmail.fr » 28/07/11, 13:41

I had think of the solar one I have a grid of refrigerator of 50x50cm how much one can one draw from it? (of w)? but for the days without sun I will use the stove? Thank you
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 28/07/11, 14:41

Orders of magnitude:
Sun max 1KW per m2 very clear and perpendicular !!
Yield 50% if not too badly done !! (heat loss by thermal convection and non-perfect mirrors).
So a 50 by 50 cm concentrator mirror gives 1/4 of m2, or 250W and in fact about 100W.

Burning 1Kg of dry wood in one hour makes 4KW or also with 50% efficiency (exchanger already correct but simple) 2KW.
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val.du.12@hotmail.fr
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by val.du.12@hotmail.fr » 28/07/11, 18:43

I HAVE JUST PURCHASED 25 m of black pipe diam 20 I will see the glass that I have to make at least 1m2. What sensor surface to manufacture do you need during the winter to make the same power as an electric converter of 500 W ?? THANK YOU

My roof pitch and about 45 degrees is that good? THANK YOU
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by val.du.12@hotmail.fr » 29/07/11, 00:36

Hello everyone I actually have a kind of garden shed
of 20 m2 and I am looking for all possible solutions to keep it at + 10 degrees this winter + a small electrical consumption of 50 w so I had to think about:

wind power:
I am building a 100 watt wind turbine for 12V.

Solar:
I bought black pipe of 25m diam 20 and I count to make 1; 2 see 3 panel of 120x60. How much power can I get per panel in winter with a cloudy sun? All connected to a hot water tank of 40l or more ?? And a radiator.
I had thought that the surplus of the wind turbine send it to its to heat the water
http://www.road-store.com/thermo-plonge ... c-398.html
it could work or be too a "gadjet" ???

Then I also had to think of a small stove of this style
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/525/p5021339.jpg/
for really cold days with no sun and no wind.
If the stove is outside it will heat a water coil which will be connected to the radiator.

If you have ideas of heating for pa dear I am a seller.
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 29/07/11, 03:02

This shed is in which region ?? Isolated how ???

If not isolated outside the PACA region by the Mediterranean sea, you have to heat it with a beautiful 10KW stove (1 to 2Kg of burnt wood per hour), and otherwise the only solution is to use the earth in depth which never freezes at more than 70cm and is at 13 ° C at more than 3m deep in general, keeping a memory of the summer heat !!

So the simplest bury the shed as much as possible and cover it with thick straw to isolate it to the max and that the earth provides it with more heat than it loses !!!

Converted into a cave you will have more than 10 ° C without heating !!

Otherwise it will be frozen !!
And 100W wind will be negligible !!
And winter solar will be weak requiring 100m2 of solar collectors with good insulation !!

Otherwise you have the ultimate solution:
www.dlsc.ca
https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... mrk29Z.pdf
discussed:
https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaleur-d- ... 10828.html
https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaleur-d- ... 10828.html
https://www.econologie.com/forums/post203921.html#203921
and therefore the operation can be followed live on:
http://www.dlsc.ca/how.htm

It is a Canadian well with liquid circulation, good size (1000m3 of ground heated by drilling at least by pavilion), where we store the heat of summer to find it again in winter !!
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bidouille23
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by bidouille23 » 05/08/11, 13:02

Bonjour,

since the time :) ,

in a word i would say

http://www.aprovecho.org/lab/pubs/rl/st ... category/1

;), there is something to read and learn and understand, understand that you can completely make your small stove.

If I understood correctly, the Co will largely form if the combustion is poor, in any case you must have a good draft and not leak so that the evacuation takes away all the particles remaining from the combustion.

We add a little trick when it comes to heating a home whatever it is, keep the hot fumes at least 60-80 ° c at the top of the chimney to avoid condensation in the pipes (condensation which does not is not that water, among other things there is acid formation which will eat your casing, hence the interest of isolating the casing (a double wall casing filled with hydrophilic vermiculite or glass bile or perlite ).

Otherwise I would have opted for a Rocket Stove type stove (as in the photo you showed I think, based on stainless steel chimney casing and no tin can because the combustion will disintegrate the small scrap metal and safe side is not the top, except for outside, the can is great.

Two cans one inside the other, see here you will understand (look also on aprovecho there is a high-performance design given by by in calculation and image;)).

I made one with a ty pc fan in addition to force the air gas mixture, and it's downright amazing the radiant power, and especially as soon as the ty-stove is hot enough to heat the air after combustion, the smoke disappears and the flame turns red with beautiful blue flames inside :) .

I tested and I put around 5 min to heat 1 l of water in a stainless steel kettle, little more if you extinguish the fire just after the combustion of the gases you will have coal for your barbecue or your earth of your choice; ).

Finally look at how did the fire to have a good combustion, it is not so obvious as that, as it is said if the way of making the fire is not good you will transform a ferrari into 2cv with all the problems resulting, soot pollution etc etc.

Finally to make a low-blow ty-stove that works well the gas bottles is good, if you put in more an internal lining based on refractory concrete you will have something that will last quite a long time (for my part I have a stove of the first world war it has to heat the shacks of the hairy : Shock: , the top and the bottom are made of cast iron but the body is only a simple sheet of metal of 1mm, on the other hand it has an internal shielding in refractory concrete of 3 cm and suddenly it still lives, I have it 'elsewhere modified and it does double combustion now;) and it heats very very strongly compared to before, even can be too strong :) .

Brief read and you will see that everything is possible.

see you
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rpsantina
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by rpsantina » 21/08/11, 09:42

You can also go to the wiki by searching for "rocket stove" : Arrow: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocket_stove
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