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Automation of the solar heating circuit of the pool

published: 01/07/08, 14:47
by yannocram
Hello

I would like to automate the solar heating circuit of the pool (the pool is currently 31 °!) by closing the circuit when the pool is sufficiently hot (28 ° max).

I installed a solar carpet which takes water at the outlet of the filter with return to the inlet of the pump. It works very well. With manual valves at the inlet and at the outlet to isolate the heating circuit when too hot or too cold or winter bleed. I also put "in preventive" a non-return valve at the entrance of the solar heating circuit.

To automate this, I had thought of replacing the manual valves by two solenoid valves (Rainbird PGA 100 + transformer 24V) controlled by carrier current via a PC and a water temperature probe (Oregon scientific RF type) and a temperature probe d 'air (idem). Interesting but expensive and complicated.

Wouldn't it be simpler to simply put a thermostatic valve at the inlet of my solar heating circuit ==> which will close the solar heating circuit when the pool water is for example at 28 ° and therefore to no longer heat the water in the swimming pool.

Much simpler, cheaper, no energy consumption.

Your opinion ?
Will the valve have sufficient flow?
Is it chlorine resistant?
Anyone already done it?

Thank you for your informed opinions.

published: 01/07/08, 14:54
by Christophe
Ben a thermostatic valve the size of pool pipes uh it's not easy to find and no it will not have sufficient flow ... but I may be wrong?

Otherwise there are motorized PVC 3-way valves but it costs 400 € ... without regulation.

No metal is resistant, in the long run, to chlorine except titanium (see picine exchangers).

So I think that in the case of direct solar heating since the sun does not shine all the time, there is no regulation to have if it is manual or not at all.

Otherwise, run your pump a little less often, right?

published: 01/07/08, 15:21
by yannocram
Thank you for your reply.

The solar heating circuit has a diameter of 32. The pump used is the filtration pump ==> I can run it a little less but the water may be less clean: it is a balance to find.

If I put my two Rainbird solenoid valves on anyway, how long do you think they will be able to resist chlorine?

published: 01/07/08, 15:25
by Christophe
These solenoid valves are plastic, so they can last "a while" but they should not be given ...

So what do you need 2? If you close on one side, is that enough?

published: 01/07/08, 16:09
by yannocram
They are "on sale" for less than € 30 near my home.

Yes, you're right: one solenoid valve is enough. Joy! So I will only have one to install.

(shame: I bought two ...)

published: 01/07/08, 16:17
by Christophe
Ah well it's a deal.

You can always resell the second ... or give it back to the seller ... you have 2 days for this.

It would therefore be best to order it with a dry contact thermstat: simple and effective.

The only problem (we come back to it) is the probe which may not like chlorine ...

published: 01/07/08, 22:48
by yannocram
The temperature sensor: Oregon Scientific THWR288 - Thermo Pool Probe (around € 60).
I assume it is resistant to chlorine (submerged plastic part).
Image

In theory, the temperature is recovered by radio frequency, to the computer, to homeseer, then return by carrier current (X10 or PLCBUs) to the dry contactor. The practical implementation remains to be done.

Unless a thermostatic solution can work ...

published: 02/07/08, 09:41
by Christophe
Oula it looks a bit complicated all that and I fear a lot for reliability over time ... (already I guess it works on battery)

There are gloves special atmosphere or corrosive atmosphere fingers but it costs candy (but we can also make one out of PVC) ... where you could put a simple dry contact thermostat at 30 € but which will last 10 years (at least ).

On the other hand, you will be 100% filliaire maybe it is not what you want?

published: 02/07/08, 19:31
by Flytox
Bonjour Christophe
Christophe wrote:No metal is resistant, in the long run, to chlorine except titanium (see picine exchangers).

Depending on the conditions of use and the form of chlorine (wet or dry) the properties of titanium range from completely inert (corrosion) to extremely brittle.

http://aida.ineris.fr/bref/brefca/le%20chlore.pdf

For this use of titanium, between the price and the precautions for use, it is a solution to look for the problems and not to solve them : Mrgreen:
A+

Re: Automation of the solar pool heating circuit

published: 08/04/20, 22:58
by Remy47
Hello,
Although the post is several years old, I try my luck. I am in the process of carrying out an identical assembly for the heating of my swimming pool with pipe pe25.

Could you tell me about your experience and your feedback over several years (valve aging etc ...)

thank you in advance