Which perennials (fruit vegetables ...) for a greenhouse?

Organize and arrange your garden and vegetable garden: ornamental, landscape, wild garden, materials, fruits and vegetables, vegetable garden, natural fertilizers, shelters, pools or natural swimming pool. lifetime plants and crops in your garden.
Christophe
Moderator
Moderator
posts: 79125
Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
Location: Greenhouse planet
x 10974

Which perennials (fruit vegetables ...) for a greenhouse?




by Christophe » 23/03/11, 13:55

I'm a little tired of replanting tomatoes, peppers or other melons every year in our greenhouse (due east, sun until noon) and which have low productivity (no maturity, late blight ...)

So I was wondering what there are perennials in fruits and vegetables that would work in a greenhouse?

It is leaned against the house (it is not frost-free) but has an interesting inertia ...

We renovated it in 2009: https://www.econologie.com/forums/renovation ... t7461.html

Image

I had already put some aromatics that are doing well ...
0 x
dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
x 10




by dedeleco » 23/03/11, 15:52

(due east, sun until noon) and which have low productivity (no maturity, late blight ...)

first impression, see the photo, no afternoon sun, so wet in the afternoon, so mildew.
In addition, the proximity of the beautiful wall with probably all the mason's residues in the ground that block the growth of plants !! (dramatic personal experience of being unable to grow anything good after renovation work and even beautiful nursery plants which regress to the state of microscopic Bonzai (except wasteland plants which is the biotope) , !!) and therefore change the soil at least a meter deep for good topsoil full of potting soil and earthworms !!!
Or move the greenhouse away from this wall !!

Each plant has its biotope but:
tomatoes, peppers or other melons in our greenhouse (due east, sun until noon) and which have low productivity (no maturity, mildew ...)

like rich land, garden with good soil.
A criterion the number of earthworms per liter of earth when digging.
Melons and pumpkins grow well on good peel soil (forgotten melon seeds). You also have to cut them at the right time !!

The aromatics (not all) like little rich soils.

Having very different types of terrain at the same time, I see the huge differences (factors 10 to 100 or even 1000 in growth speed) !!
0 x
Christophe
Moderator
Moderator
posts: 79125
Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
Location: Greenhouse planet
x 10974




by Christophe » 24/03/11, 10:23

dedeleco wrote:first impression, see the photo, no afternoon sun, so wet in the afternoon, so mildew.


Yes, it can be ready

dedeleco wrote:In addition, the proximity of the beautiful wall with probably all the mason's residues in the ground that block the growth of plants !!


No, it's pretty clean on that side ... at least up to 30/40 cm deep ...

dedeleco wrote:Having very different types of terrain at the same time, I see the huge differences (factors 10 to 100 or even 1000 in growth speed) !!


Well yes it is "a little" the principle of fertilizers: compensate for the deficiencies of the soil ...

Well I think I'm already going to put a few berries (I already have some outside to compare): raspberries, blackcurrants ... taking varieties half sun half shade (I don't know if possible for blackcurrant but for raspberries ca exists) and taking care to avoid overheating in summer ...
0 x
dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
x 10




by dedeleco » 24/03/11, 13:35

Well I think I'm already going to put a few berries (I already have some outside to compare): raspberries, blackcurrants ... taking varieties half sun half shade (I don't know if possible for blackcurrant but for raspberries ca exists) and taking care to avoid overheating in summer ...

Raspberries like soils that are quite rich and moist in the sun, the biotope of brambles and nettles, and between my different gardens those that grow in the rich, totally refuse to grow in the poor or hyper dry !!
The blackcurrant requires even richer and humid fresh.
Brambles without thorns or large blackberries are very easy and good, but not on too poor ground, as I see between my different gardens.

However, raspberries, blackcurrants, ripe thornless brambles are much easier than melons and tomatoes and above all require very little work.
They and they no greenhouse needed at all and resist winter frost.
In 35 years my raspberries have measured global warming by becoming ripe 3 weeks earlier !!!

You have to know the nature of the soil, fertilizers are not enough, and the deep nature of the soil is hyper-important, and therefore what is more than 30 / 40cm has an effect !!
Having in my garden a trench dug to 3m deep, 35 years ago, I see the difference !! Even excavated in Roman times can be seen in the fields (even with fertilizer) by plane !!


Finally what is the concentration of earthworms ??????
They are the only ones able to measure the true "clean" by their number


Crucial for raspberries with shallow roots (like nettles).
If no spontaneous nettles, no raspberries in my opinion and in my gardens !!!

The blackcurrant is easily layered, like thorns without thorns, and the raspberries roam all alone underground, looking for new grounds and fleeing those where they have already lived !! !!
One foot, over time is enough to fill a garden with good soil.
0 x
bidouille23
Grand Econologue
Grand Econologue
posts: 1155
Registration: 21/06/09, 01:02
Location: Britain BZH powaaa
x 2




by bidouille23 » 26/03/11, 09:55

hello,

I recently saw the report from coline serreau "a local solution for a global problem", and in it there was talk about agriculture, I advise you to watch it, it is very informative, it took how the industry had farmers;).

So in there we found a Russian, who produces in an organic colcoz yes yes in organic in a colcoz :) for 30 years.

Are secret to have equivalent crops see better than it is buddy who make tradis:

except the first time, if not never plow the earth on more than 15 cm, you killed all the life by undoing the earth 30 to 40 cm.
My grandfather is already like that, my great grandfather too and it has always surper bined market and the earth was dark brown black and smelled good, not like the field of fields now, take in the hands look at the texture it is squeeze and smell nothing or it doesn't smell good.


Normally in good soil there are rootlets in addition to earthworms.

The principle is simple, have fertilized with compost or slurry, and nettle manure (it is used for all nettle manure;)), have bought old races which contain full of vitamin and minerals and especially which are adapted to the destination climate, at KOKOPELI for example it is an association of safeguarding of old semen which is beaten regularly by monsantos and all the click of thief of life.

For tomatoes the less you water the more you will have taste, the secret is a pipe buried in the ground with just the end which protrudes above the ground, in which we just put the watering water it is simple fast effective .

Last thing probably important to remember, a plant consumes 80% oxygen (by the roots) and only 20% water and nutrients to meditate.

see you
0 x
dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
x 10




by dedeleco » 26/03/11, 12:16

Very true with good soil full of earthworms which plow much better than the plow !!
but if the earth is bad, no more earthworms !!!
and changing the earth into arable land full of bio is crucial !!!
So re-question, how many earthworms ????
0 x
bidouille23
Grand Econologue
Grand Econologue
posts: 1155
Registration: 21/06/09, 01:02
Location: Britain BZH powaaa
x 2




by bidouille23 » 26/03/11, 16:14

Re,

worms are a very good indicator indeed.

The question in this case is: "from how many worms did you consider the earth to be good?"

I persist in saying that we can still recognize a good earth by sight to touch and smell. And after the quantity of worms completes the information already collected in a good way.

But there is also a very very important thing that we have to control, the PH (for our body also by the way have measured the urine and must have been rather stable acid or basic according to people, but not oxidizing;)) .

I would also go in the direction of Dedelco about the sun ppresent in your greenhouse, the green at the bottom seems to me well exposed for tomato, melon, eggplant etc.

Go see KOKOpeli or Sainte Marthe farm, they have surprising breeds;) and which will undoubtedly go to your greenhouse in the foreground.

Powdery mildew and other mold also come from lack of ventilation (too high humidity), and races, some resist better than others do not forget;).

see you
0 x
User avatar
Did67
Moderator
Moderator
posts: 20362
Registration: 20/01/08, 16:34
Location: Alsace
x 8685




by Did67 » 26/03/11, 18:15

Perennials, by definition, are resistant to us. Why put them in a greenhouse? To "cook" them in the summer ??? And have to water them?

I will use this greenhouse to have early vegetables at the end of winter: radishes in 15 days, salads, beans ... and to "hasten" my plants, which I would then replant outside, in full sun (tomatoes - indeed , in this semi-dark situation, closed atmosphere, you favor mildew; ditto for cucurbits sensitive to powdery mildew - this species of "white flour" which gets on their sheets), the greenhouse will de-ging them ...

and rebelotte in the fall, to "pull" the production cycle: pass the first frosts under shelter - with green beans, peas, what do I know ... smé in the late summer (August). What you like !


A perennial that could please the greenhouse: strawberries? This will improve a crabone balance (avoiding being tempted by those of Morocco!)
0 x
Christophe
Moderator
Moderator
posts: 79125
Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
Location: Greenhouse planet
x 10974




by Christophe » 26/03/11, 20:02

Did67 wrote:Perennials, by definition, are resistant to us. Why put them in a greenhouse? To "cook" them in the summer ??? And have to water them?


Not just by ... lazy! : Cheesy: : Cheesy:

In summer I also water my outdoor raspberries ...

The soil of this greenhouse is not bad, pure (black) compost has been used for years for earthworms, but there is no crowd because in winter no watering ... there is a lot of nettles growing there = easy for manure!

I think I will put an "automatic" rainwater sprinkler system by simple flow and distribution on the surface of the sere of the water from the gutter (everything remains to be done) ...

Strawberries yes I had them in another greenhouse in "soft" which did not survive its 2nd winter in the Ardennes (especially the snow of December 2010 ...), see here on the right:

Image

The largest that we see on the photo of the 1st message did not resist the gale of February 28, 2010 (continuation of xynthia) ... pfff never again I buy greenhouse in soft ...

Given the orientation, I'm afraid that it lacks sun for the strawberries, right?

ps: for humidity, you can remove the last roof plate (about 30 cm) and leave the door open .. = draft
0 x
fthanron
Éconologue good!
Éconologue good!
posts: 292
Registration: 13/10/07, 17:56
Location: Loir et Cher




by fthanron » 26/03/11, 21:23

On your perennial fruit streak:
- brambles: thornless are more friendly!
- vine: mhhh good jam, wine or fresh fruit; o)

For the annual partial shade:

cucumbers and zucchini (partial shade)

- radishes: "the long days of summer bring radishes to seed, during this period a culture in partial shade is therefore recommended"

- Jerusalem artichoke: "it is very productive in full sun but grows well in partial shade".

- turnips: "they are plants of a cool climate and do not fear shade. They can be sown from the end of April to the end of June. Sowing in June gives the best results"

- for aromatics: chives, mint, parsley, chervil, borage, sorrel, sage, arugula, catnip, coriander, mitsuba, oregano, stevia, shiso, Mexican tea, lamb's lettuce and watercress (partial shade)

- Swiss chard (partial shade)

- celery (partial shade)

- lettuce and spinach (shadow)

http://forums.jardinage.net/viewsujet.php?f=5&p=706591

Hope to help you @ +

PS: maybe to do with http://www.geres.eu/fr/top-publications who has a good mastery of the greenhouse + "freshness" subject!
0 x
Frederic

Back to "Garden: landscaping, plants, garden, ponds and pools"

Who is online ?

Users browsing this forum : No registered users and 122 guests