attic floor insulation boards

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dodo
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attic floor insulation boards




by dodo » 08/02/10, 22:02

Hello,

I will make an energy assessment, but I start to prepare the ground because I think that I will not escape isolation.

So I look in my attic on the ground I have beams perpendicular to the slope (I think it's called joists).
the former owner had screwed up reclaimed wood planks so he could walk in the attic.

I looked at 2 to 3 pieces of wood to check the state of the LV which dates from 30 years ago I could see that there were 3 panels of 5 cm of LV and not crossed.

attached some photos so that you can better understand the situation.

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zorglub
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by zorglub » 09/02/10, 16:49

I did the same thing there is now a 30 year groin, I have 20 cm of glass wool (height of the joists) some ventilation holes in the mesh for ventilation

for me, the insulation is very satisfactory (although I have not made a diagnosis) and no problems since
ps: I believe that the new standards require 20 cm thick - to control
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by Christophe » 09/02/10, 16:53

Yes, the RT2005 "requires" (actually advises) 6 to 6.5 thermal resistance, so about 25 cm.

20 cm is a bit tight (in zone H1) ... but that is generally enough because we are talking about total resistance (so add that of the floor, finishes ...)

Here are the different resistances recommended by the RT2005: https://www.econologie.com/rt2005-les-re ... -3512.html
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by zorglub » 09/02/10, 16:59

exact: personally I have the 3 cm floor in chipboard
and 5 mm of construction bidime which is waterproof and fireproof, I think I have largely the requested value because my ceiling is in slag (bricks of 3 cm)
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dodo
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by dodo » 09/02/10, 20:46

I do not have 20 cm but 15 cm, so I wondered if it was necessary to remove everything to redo a new insulation.

zorglub and in the wall how much do you have?
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by zorglub » 09/02/10, 21:23

well against some walls I have 10 cm of polystyrene + placo
for others, to gain volume, and because the walls were not straight, I sank between the brick partition and the vermiculite wall (between 10 and 15 cm)
on the ground floor, I removed the original parquet and I put floating parquet on stirodur (5 cm)
by cons in the kitchen I had tiling and I did nothing
I have double glazing - frames brought back to the wood joinery (4/10/4) a local manufacturer who made them to measure that I installed
in my half-buried cellar on which there is a bedroom I insulated the cellar ceiling with stirodur 5 cm


that's it for the insulation
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dodo
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by dodo » 09/02/10, 21:32

ha ok caar me I have 7.5 cm of LV and 7 cm of plaster tile.
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by zorglub » 09/02/10, 21:46

it's already pretty good, and it depends on the region in which you live
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by dedeleco » 09/02/10, 23:46

typical of houses like mine from the 70s improved without much trouble.
Good for the horizontal part, but check that there are no inconspicuous oversights especially in the inclined parts between tile and drywall and not very accessible.
Also like at my house you probably have lower vertical walls hiding the inclined tiles and there often you risk having huge holes with drafts like at my house? because hardly visible without drilling the wall or removing the tiles !!
With snow you don't need thermography to know where it melts faster, there is a risk of excessive losses.
My neighbors on similar pavilions do not seem to have become aware of this problem to be remedied !!!
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by dodo » 10/02/10, 12:15

here I have just made my assessment in my opinion this will not be famous : Evil: , I have the impression that renovating the old is more expensive than building.


I await the report but according to the discussions:

1) it would seem that it is difficult to know if the green wool between the agglos and the 7 cm of plaster wall is still effective.

2) I think they will recommend insulation from the outside

3) lengthen the solid so as to be able to put a new 22cm insulation + insulated the crawlers between the tiles.
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