Electro osmosis against capillaries?

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
sensei64
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Electro osmosis against capillaries?




by sensei64 » 06/01/10, 20:09

problems


Capillary lift in basement walls that gives wet rooms on the ground floor?

house about 50ans on clay with around drainage of origin carried out without too much success (big humidity in the region and on the ground in particular :( )

do you have experience feedback on this topic

a big thank you in advance for our rheumatism :) :)
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Sim's
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by Sim's » 06/01/10, 20:45

good evening.
the builders had to foresee the drainage. Is there not, at all events, a fountain which no longer flows below?
I allow myself this assertion, because a mason friends in renovation met the same case on an old castle.
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by Sim's » 06/01/10, 20:48

oops! sorry.
the house has 50 years ...
it's cement isn't it? with "modern" construction techniques?
I heard about electro osmosis, and how it worked very well. I'm going to take a look at the canvas.
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by Sim's » 06/01/10, 21:01

uh ... i found this:
forums.futura-sciences.com / chemistry / 39176-electro-osmosis-electrophorese.html
Have you ever seen it? In any case, it exudes good faith.
0 x
It is for intellectuals, and all human beings, to get up, to write, to speak, to act at every failure to proclaim that the world that we design for our children does not deserve that other word: unacceptable , false, absurd, false and artificial, counterfeit and adulterated, fake, hypocritical, and frankly monstrueux.comme this site, a snub to place a pub max.
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by sensei64 » 06/01/10, 21:13

thank you all
for your quick answers yes there is a hill behind the house and there "must" be sources on the neighbor's land, according to the info I have there is a double wall and exterior drains and I would say intermediate, in case of heavy rain: traces on the ground I think of making another drainage upstream on the ground with drains on different levels (horizontal)
in terms of the wall I think more a breeze block year 50,

thank you for the post but little feedback on the achievements, before getting "warm" inside before outside work, I would have liked to have more feedback

good night
to all of you
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aerialcastor
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by aerialcastor » 07/01/10, 12:09

Hello,


Moisture problems can have many causes, and it is imperative to find which ones before starting any treatment on pain of seeing one's efforts dashed.


Then, without wanting to generalize, "the old ones" built to last (real durable with the means at hand and without greenwashing) so there is a lot of "chance" that the problem is not original but has taken its place. appearance later following work.

You say it is a house without foundations, so a priori without breaking capillarity. This means that the water (in liquid form) rises by capillarity into the walls. Which is not an evil in itself. The durability of the wall is ensured through evapotranspiration. The wall is always dry. At least that's the way the wall should work.
However some works may have broken this balance between capillary rise and evapotranspiration. As the placement of a cement plaster on the exterior facade that blocks the evapotranspiration so water remains in the wall can cause serious damage. More problematic, it may be due to the establishment of a cement slab with polyane below (technique very popular with masons, which is not at all suitable for the renovation of old buildings). The rising water is blocked by the polyane, so go where it can escape, ie towards the edges, therefore the walls and aggravates the problem.
The remedy would be to turn the roughcast cement to replace it with a perspiring coating (lime, cladding, ...) for the facade.
For the slab, it's more problematic, the only solution I see is to make a multitude of holes to allow the balance of water pressures. Before doing so check that it is a slab on solid ground and not slabs (but a priori it is the case).

To reassure, (and I hope for you that it will be the case) it can simply be a problem of ventilation. The old houses were very watertight including door frames. The renewal of air was ensured by the leaks of the envelope. The change of frames by more permeable affects the renewal of air. To remedy the situation, the installation of a hygro VMC may suffice.

This may also be due to insufficient insulation. A house is a machine to create water vapor (breathing, cooking). In contact with a cold wall (poorly insulated outer wall), this water vapor condenses, and spots appear. These phenomena appear first where there are thermal bridges (junction slab / wall, wall ext / wall slit, corner wall ext, ...). temporary surventillation can regulate the pb while waiting for an insulation worthy of the name.


This may be due to above mentioned clogged drains, but I do not believe too much, many old houses (without capillary breaks) and renovate properly (breathable materials) are perfectly healthy and without drain.
There is also the possibility of the diversion of a river upstream, and misery ...
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by sensei64 » 07/01/10, 19:15

thank you for your very precise answer aerialcastor

there was no change in the construction (iso, coating everything is original (average condition, but not catastrophic, only work in 2009
double glazing and installation of a vmc and no evolution in one way or the other after work
the problem is "original" I think, that's why I wanted to use this technique which could only go in the right direction.

what is the risk of putting electrosmosis into action?

time, recup (copper) and solder products
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aerialcastor
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by aerialcastor » 07/01/10, 20:40

Very sincerely I do not know the technique of electro-osmosis so I can not answer you on this point. What I do know is that you have to apply an electric field and therefore energy consumption. And that, I do not like it too much. But after that, how much energy is needed to dry the wall, knowing that as soon as you stop bringing in the moisture the moisture will reappear.

Perhaps a good drainage will suffice, but be careful when digging around the walls, if there is no foundation to not make everything collapse.
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sensei64
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statistics




by sensei64 » 10/01/10, 12:28

hello aerialcastor

for information
I just made some measurements:

potential difference between earth (on bar) house and copper rods in the wall (basement ground floor)

- 0,7v * and a current of 20 micro-ampere

tests to put a current 4V source of 0,4 milliapere

* (measurement on other points with copper 0,6 to 0,8 according to the points, I do not think that the distance has an incidence)

therefore the power absorbed is of the order of 1milliwatt (1,2 if the measurements are exact.

next step take measurements on the entire periphery of the basement, connect all the copper "connections" and see consumption

but I do not think it has any importance (difference of measure due to contacts I think)
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Re: Electro osmosis against capillaries?




by JP2000 » 29/03/10, 02:47

sensei64 wrote:problems

Excess moisture in your home is probably due to lack of ventilation.
Buy an air dehumidifier at 200 euros and set it to 50%.
Leave it plugged in permanently. It is worth trying rather than spending 5000 euros.

Thank you for communicating the result to me.


Capillary lift in basement walls that gives wet rooms on the ground floor?

house about 50ans on clay with around drainage of origin carried out without too much success (big humidity in the region and on the ground in particular :( )

do you have experience feedback on this topic

a big thank you in advance for our rheumatism :) :)
0 x

 


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