Another thread on the regulation of a boiler (Easypell)
published: 17/12/21, 00:15
Hello,
It will be long, I am sorry for that !
My parents are new owners of a 12kWh Easypell. House of approximately 130m2, 9 cast iron radiators and 3 in steel. Outdoor sensor, room sensor, and thermostatic valves.
I get straight to the point:
The installer told us that it was sufficient to leave the setpoint temperature at 22 ° (stop hysteresis 1,5k, start hysteresis 1,0k, “room probe influence” at 5) and set the desired temperature in the different rooms using thermostatic valves… we therefore had difficulty understanding the usefulness of the outdoor sensor and the room thermostat.
I explain where I am with the settings after spending a lot of hours reading everything that seemed relevant to me on these forums :
1. Now, the comfort setpoint is at 18,5 °, still with stop hysteresis at 1,5k, and start hysteresis at 1,0k (the boiler cuts at 20 ° and starts up again at 19 ° ... existence the figure “18.5” therefore loses a little meaning for me…). Room probe influence at 1.
1a. Reduced setpoint for the night 16,5 ° (hysteresis, etc., idem).
The boiler starts up again at 17 °, usually around 3-4 a.m., to reach the set point, alias 16,5 + 1,5, less than an hour later.
2. The "reference room", with its radiators fully, reaches said temperatures quite easily: today the boiler has cut 6 times (we are at home all day, mother and son working from home + father and son renovating) and she had running times between 22 minutes and 90 minutes.
This “reference room” heats up less quickly than all the others, which is why we chose it (we usually recommend using the living room, but my parents don't have a “living room”… in the evening my mother has fun all alone in her corner, and my father the same).
3. Result: I read a lot on the water law and even tried settings (to have “less hot” water). However, even by lowering the base of the curve as much as possible, the boiler sends water to the radiators at around 60 ° minimum (the ambient probe influence was indeed at 0 in these cases), which is largely sufficient to reach and exceed the setpoint temperature, so it is impossible to have very long cycles if the valves in the reference room are left open.
(Original water-dependent settings: foot of curve at 35 °, slope at 1,4).
Basically, I (/ think I have) figured out that pellet boilers like longer cycles without too many cuts (and that pellet consumption level may be preferable).
That's what I'm trying to accomplish — but, without making it artificially impossible to reach the set temperature by turning off the faucets in the reference room a bit, I don't know what else to do.
When we use this method, the boiler does not cut (or very very rarely), it zigzags between the modulation of its power to heat the water and the “post-combustion”.
Over the last ~ 10 days we have consumed ~ 16 bags of pellets (15kg bags).
It goes without saying that we are indeed looking for the best possible efficiency, as well as settings that will satisfy the boiler. At least we're not cold anymore (system installed mid-November and before that… nothing)! However, we have a bit of a hard time appreciating what looks like over-complexity right now.
Is there a simple little detail or tip that I missed? I'm really starting to have a hard time thinking clearly on this topic.
Any information and perspective will be welcome!
Thank you!
(Please excuse any linguistic peculiarities, French is unfortunately not my mother tongue.)
It will be long, I am sorry for that !
My parents are new owners of a 12kWh Easypell. House of approximately 130m2, 9 cast iron radiators and 3 in steel. Outdoor sensor, room sensor, and thermostatic valves.
I get straight to the point:
The installer told us that it was sufficient to leave the setpoint temperature at 22 ° (stop hysteresis 1,5k, start hysteresis 1,0k, “room probe influence” at 5) and set the desired temperature in the different rooms using thermostatic valves… we therefore had difficulty understanding the usefulness of the outdoor sensor and the room thermostat.
I explain where I am with the settings after spending a lot of hours reading everything that seemed relevant to me on these forums :
1. Now, the comfort setpoint is at 18,5 °, still with stop hysteresis at 1,5k, and start hysteresis at 1,0k (the boiler cuts at 20 ° and starts up again at 19 ° ... existence the figure “18.5” therefore loses a little meaning for me…). Room probe influence at 1.
1a. Reduced setpoint for the night 16,5 ° (hysteresis, etc., idem).
The boiler starts up again at 17 °, usually around 3-4 a.m., to reach the set point, alias 16,5 + 1,5, less than an hour later.
2. The "reference room", with its radiators fully, reaches said temperatures quite easily: today the boiler has cut 6 times (we are at home all day, mother and son working from home + father and son renovating) and she had running times between 22 minutes and 90 minutes.
This “reference room” heats up less quickly than all the others, which is why we chose it (we usually recommend using the living room, but my parents don't have a “living room”… in the evening my mother has fun all alone in her corner, and my father the same).
3. Result: I read a lot on the water law and even tried settings (to have “less hot” water). However, even by lowering the base of the curve as much as possible, the boiler sends water to the radiators at around 60 ° minimum (the ambient probe influence was indeed at 0 in these cases), which is largely sufficient to reach and exceed the setpoint temperature, so it is impossible to have very long cycles if the valves in the reference room are left open.
(Original water-dependent settings: foot of curve at 35 °, slope at 1,4).
Basically, I (/ think I have) figured out that pellet boilers like longer cycles without too many cuts (and that pellet consumption level may be preferable).
That's what I'm trying to accomplish — but, without making it artificially impossible to reach the set temperature by turning off the faucets in the reference room a bit, I don't know what else to do.
When we use this method, the boiler does not cut (or very very rarely), it zigzags between the modulation of its power to heat the water and the “post-combustion”.
Over the last ~ 10 days we have consumed ~ 16 bags of pellets (15kg bags).
It goes without saying that we are indeed looking for the best possible efficiency, as well as settings that will satisfy the boiler. At least we're not cold anymore (system installed mid-November and before that… nothing)! However, we have a bit of a hard time appreciating what looks like over-complexity right now.
Is there a simple little detail or tip that I missed? I'm really starting to have a hard time thinking clearly on this topic.
Any information and perspective will be welcome!
Thank you!
(Please excuse any linguistic peculiarities, French is unfortunately not my mother tongue.)