boiler heating curve ÖkoFEN

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
Mic74
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boiler heating curve ÖkoFEN




by Mic74 » 04/10/15, 10:31

Hello,

I am here to ask for help to adjust the heating curve of my boiler Okofen.

Despite several attempts to adjust by following the advice on different posts, nothing works, the temperature inside is always greater than 23 degree and goes up to 25 for a set of 20 degree.

Currently the foot is 27 and the slope of 1.6. It makes more than 23 and the radiators work even with a warm outside temperature.

Thanks to those who will come to me on the right setting.
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by Did67 » 04/10/15, 22:30

To see if your settings are working in the right direction, put your foot on 20 ° and keep me informed ...

The method is described everywhere, and she is infallible :

a) no thermostatic faucets, or open them fully

b) in mild weather (as at this moment), act on the foot and the slope:

b1 - it does more than you want (which is the case): lower the foot in increments of 5 ° (you can then refine) and go up the slope of 0,2

b2 - it does what you want: do not change anything

b3 - it's colder than you'd like: go up and down.

c) one adjustment per day for thermal balances to settle

d) preferably in gray weather (because during the day, the contributions of the sun can disturb, in the absence of room sensor) [without heating, my living room goes up to 21 or 22 ° in the late afternoon; it's not heating, it's the sun; if it is, your heating just ensures the 20 ° and the sun adds 3 ???)

To check first: do you have a motorized 3-way valve at the head of the heating circuit ??? If so, is there a temperature probe on the outlet pipe, after this valve ??? [I have read incredible things, like not a motorized V3V! Or a V3V mounted upside down ... Hence these "stupid" questions, to rule out the worst)

NB 1: before modifying the foot and slope, look at the position of the V3V; then you change: in the next minute, the V3V must move and your starting temperature must move - lower if you put your foot down ... Otherwise, there is a "bug" in the installation!

NB 2: do not focus on a priori values; no house is like another; if it is too hot, mathematically and without any discussion possible, the water is too hot at first; so lower the foot and see if the starting temperature drops immediately!

NB 3: these climatic regulations seem complicated while it is stupid as cabbage! So go there "stupidly", without qualms!
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by Did67 » 06/10/15, 11:24

So what ????????????
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by Did67 » 06/10/15, 11:25

So what ?????
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Mic74
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by Mic74 » 09/10/15, 20:22

Hello,

Thank you for your detailed answer.

The mild temperatures of recent days were not conducive to observing the operation, the boiler did not start. It is already progress.

I set foot in 20 that day and see if it improves things.

With the previous settings, the problem was the night when the temperature falls, the boiler started while the set was already exceeded without heating. (Indoor temperature increases by 2 degree last night, goes from 20.5 to 22.5)
Indeed the solar contributions increase the temperature during the day.

There is a motorized v3v in front of the temperature sensor.
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by Mic74 » 10/10/15, 08:20

As a result of the night, the indoor temperature has gone from 21 to almost 24.
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by Did67 » 10/10/15, 12:30

So there is one (or more) schmilblics!

Already tell us what regulation you have: a white Pelletronic embedded in your green boiler ??? So that we understand each other.

Because normally, with the setpoint exceeded, there should have been no heating during the night.

It will be necessary to see all the programming:

- "comfort" periods (day): which days, which hours?
- "lowered" periods (night): it is the complement (when one is not in "comfort", one is in "lowered")

Another very important element: the "heating limits"

- heating limit in comfort mode:?
- chuaffe limit in reduced mode:?

The "heating limits" are the temperatures external above which the boiler and heating intersect.

Ex: heating limit in reduced mode = + 5 °; this means that you can do what you want, if it is more than + 5 ° at night ("reduced" periods), the boiler and the heating are cut off. At the outset, this parameter is at - 5 ° !!! This means that everything is cut if it is not less than - 5 °.

This is obviously not the case.

I deduce that either there are "comfort" periods programmed anyhow, or the clock is not on time, or the "forcing" mode is engaged (the forcing mode "forces" regulation to stay in "comfort" mode for periods programmed to be "reduced" - for example, if a party is entertained and we don't want it to quail), or the limits are programmed anyhow!

PS: there may be other things that escape me! But let's start already!


PS2: do not focus on the boiler, but on the regulation and the departure of water in the circuit : the boiler is almost completely "autistic"; she prepares hot water; it is the regulation which "uses" this water, by controlling the start: V3V; circulator, depending on the temperature external. When the prepared hot water runs out, the boiler restarts ... AND if it is not used, it stops! So understand and admit that the regulation absolutely does not control the boiler, which manages itself ("controller" located under the domed cover).

So I will always try to specify "heating" or "regulation" (and not "boiler", which has nothing to do directly if it is too hot or too cold!)

So, let's proceed in an orderly fashion:

- what is your regulation ???
- do you have a notice? (It will be easier for me to direct you to the paragraph, rather than writing pages of explanations!)
- did you check if the clock is up to date (date and time)?
- can you record the periods programmed in "comfort"?
- can you raise both heating limits?
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by Mic74 » 10/10/15, 15:40

So for regulation, it's a Touch pelletronic. I have the associated record.

The clock is up to date.

The time to make the settings, I programmed the comfort mode permanently. I thought it would be easier by having a constant temperature demanded.

The comfort heating limit is 18 and reduces it by 10.
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by Did67 » 10/10/15, 16:41

OKAY.

I understand better why she heated up in the middle of the night. Period comfort. Heating limit not reached. Logic.

So maybe less schmilblics than I thought!

So you confirm a "foot" at 20 ° and you got 24 ° inside ???

Give me back "foot" and "slope" and the outside temperature?

I don't remember: does the "Touch" also give you the starting temperature? If so, give it to me too, at the same time ...

And we'll start by checking that, at the same moment: does the temperature of departure in your circuit (the temperature real : do you have a probe to check that?) is the temperature indicated by the touch / calculated ???
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by Did67 » 10/10/15, 19:35

Mic74 wrote:
With the previous settings, the problem was the night when the temperature falls, the boiler started while the set was already exceeded without heating. (Indoor temperature increases by 2 degree last night, goes from 20.5 to 22.5)


I did not pick up that point.

If you are in "comfort" mode day and night, it is normal for the boiler to start.

I didn't explain a point to you: with climate regulation, it is the outside temperature that "controls".

The basic premise is that a house loses all the more calories it's cold outside.

And, moreover, that for a desired temperature to be maintained, it is enough to bring as many calories as the house loses.

So climate control does not control the boiler at all, but the temperature of the water in the radiators.

The colder it is outside, the more water will be sent to a high temperature. Thus, losses of the house = contributions by the heating circuit, and the setpoint is reached.

For this, your regulation must have the "right calculation formula", determined by the slope and the foot of the curve.

The principle: start temperature = slope * (20 or 18 - external temp) + foot

Slope and foot depend on the transmitters: a heated floor with a large surface and operates at low temperature: the foot will be weak (eg 25 °); the low slope (eg 0,7). "Small" old-fashioned radiators, it's the opposite: you need very hot water - they are almost scorching: therefore high foot (eg 40) and fairly steep slope (eg 1,7) .

And so that it works, you need a motorized V3V which "executes" the calculations of the regulation. And a thermal probe placed after, which provides information on the starting temperature.

And that's all !

The boiler, she is autistic, and is satisfied, when there is need for heating, to prepare hot water! It is absolutely not controlled by the regulation, which is absolutely not an internal thermostat (that there may be moreover, it will complicate a little, stay at this point).

So, at a moment t, check:

- external temp; slope; foot
- read the start temperature (actual, not the one displayed to exclude a wiring error) and see if it meets the formula above (I have a doubt between 20 or 18 - try both formulas)
- if OK, do a test: change the foot of + 10 and see if the flow temperature really increases from 10 in a few minutes?
- if OK, resume the setting: foot at 20 / Slope at 0,5 (voluntarily extreme value to see if the system "responds"!)
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