Problems with pellet burner Ferroli sun P7

[Ramiro60]

Having encountered many problems with this burner sold as suitable for an oil boiler I want to communicate with other users in order to be informed about solutions.

(In my case detailed plans of the boiler before buying sent for validation and validated by the supplier)

Ferroli have stopped manufacturing these burners Sun P7 at the end of year.

Thanks in advance everyone.

[tangosierra]

I'm a little new, but ready to help.
I myself mounted a Sun P7 and have heated all winter with no problems from the burner itself. And I must stress we never had too hot in the house.

1. What kinds of problems do you have? No details no possible assistance.

2. Stop making: I just searched the net, no news on it. And given the apparent success of this burner if Ferroli stops is certainly out big brother.

A+
TS

[Ramiro60]

Hi,
First of all thank you for your reply here I met:

I adapted ago 1 year and a half a pellet burner on my boiler fuel Oertli 33kg.

I specify that before purchasing this burner j had sent the detailed plans for the brochure of my boiler to be sure of the compatibility of these changes and we replied that m ok.

I'm having a lot of problems so far, including:

-Fixed adjustment of the endless screw with respect to the ventilation
takes a very long time to heat up.

- Overheating the pellets down elbow (4 replacements melted tip!)

- slag in the ashtray (photo attached)



- 4 resistors have caused be changed 1 year and a half! ??? I am not alone in this case because there are 15 30 days waiting supplier resistors for customers down!

Note that I 1 cleans at least once a week the whole seen the problems all ducts have Summers rechecked at the end of year.

The person that I've had my ESC Wholesalers who sold the burner Ferroli told me that had stopped the Sun P7.

Thank you enlighten m on all this because I completely saturates
Best regards

[tangosierra]

That's a nice pile of slag!
Is the chimney draft right? (This is a boiler chimney - no sucker)
And how are managed shutdowns / on the burner (RTR / boiler / ball)?
Have you a buffer tank, if so what capacity?
My first riddle is that the stop-start rapid succession prevents the optimal operation of the burner. Then the slag cause a jam and the flame back into the pipe.

In your place I would do the following test:
- Note the current settings of the burner,
- Reset all defaults,
- burner power at 1 (param u02)
- manual operating mode (param u03 = 0)
- Short-circuit terminals and 7 8 to turn the burner on the way
- heat for 30 minutes

Here is a start time of my burner:
00: 00: 00 Ventilation - Display = 50 0 ° C
00: 00: 30 Alim. pellets - Display = 50 0 ° C
00: 03: 15 flame detection - Display = 50 ° C 0I
00: 03: 45 1 power - pellet supply all 15s - Display = 50 ° C 1I
00: 05: 15 2 Power - Display = 50 ° C 2I
And here we go for 70 minutes

[bidouille23]

Hello ,

combustion interesting topic I am particularly allows me to meet you too;) ...

I have no burner I might add, but I run the pellet stove;) ...

I'll try to summarize what you should have ...

So you have to get a balance, including:

* 1 combustion system that is the burner
* 1 exchange system that is the boiler
* 1 gas evacuation system which is the conduit

until then you will tell me I do not teach you ...

now there are some adjustments to at least two of the three elements mentioned (see the three;)) ...

1/ on the burner:

amount of granules and rotational speed of the fan

2 / On the boiler (this is where there is not necessarily a lot of adjustment regarding the heater), the real adjustment I think would be the effective cleaning of the heating surfaces of this white layer Ideally, greatly reducing the transfer of heat and therefore performance .... (hence the OKOFEN system with springs for regular cleaning)

3/ on the casing , We too often forget that casing that is part of the system yet ....
On your boiler instruction there must be a random value for the leads .... Perhaps and probably the burner too ...

Not enough draw:
you will have to push the combustion air ventilation, suddenly strong chance of acceleration of the gases in the exchanger => loss of performance (if the draft is just a chouilla below the recommended value, no worries a slight correction of the values ​​should only cause a minimal disturbance or nothing ...) to solve the problem add tubes (a larger section on the end favors the draw) or isolate the duct

Draw too: well it's simple if starting your flow rate of gas is important and you accelerates well it going too fast in the busuque and you burn heated for birds to settle .... the problem exists raffle moderators ....

It would be ideal as a first step to a measure (or to do;)), draw.

Measured the exhaust gas temperature (more is less hot it's good if it burns well in)

The ideal would be able to rent a combustion tester (you're in what corner? I have a tester and burners s interest me ...)

This is to act like you say tangosierra on the settings of the burner ....


Personally seen the picture, what I see seems to be more of clinker? it's hard crust and a bit like sand?

if this is the case, it's the clinker, and it is created when the pellets burn at high temperature .... and according to the pellet (some are not doing or cleaning is fast enough not to have I do not want you to go too far because I do not think enough understanding of the subject to develop, so between quality pellet and / or ventilation problem the problem is vast ...)

Otherwise it also looks like "tar" which would then be a sign of the presence of water ... like in a fireplace where we burned wet wood?

Now I bounce on candles which quickly Crame, significant heating time, the pipe scorched, and I add the machefer ... (if tar the answer is probably that the pellet is wet)

If the lighting is too long it scorched the faster logic candle ...
the long heating time => it burns badly so it heats badly logic
The pipe that burns ... => there for me there is something at this level, the burner must therefore be very hot ...

The clinker is a high temperature ...;) ...
I think there is a correlation to do, I assumed , Not enough draw, but the air for combustion is sufficient for pulsed live on pellet ....
So it burns but its gas output has barely painfully, suddenly creating machefer, punishment heat out, so no rapid detection of target temperature candle stop, bad heat exchange etc etc etc ...

and especially mounted in burner temperature which melts the pipes ...


I therefore come to three (two,) in fact) questions:

1 / can you give us the dimensions of your output tubing?

2 / what is the boiler power range and the burner power setting?

3 / is what the manufacturer's recommendations when the draw are respected?

If you want a problem démerder start by being on all the elements is a solid base;) ...

if recommended operating conditions are good, he'll have to actually go in the settings ... hit the settings before imho is a big mistake ...

and in any case as the ace say tangosierra well all your current settings NOTE ....

a photo of the whole would be more to see the thing.
and friendliest we know what we are talking;) ...

see you

[bidouille23]

I'll be back soon zef :

if it is a Oertli 33KW and not 33Kg;) ... it might be something like that

http://www.oertli.fr/produits/gammes_de ... l_cu_s_150

So the doc is written such that sucker fashion power are no longer variable but only see here

http://www.oertli.fr/content/download/4 ... 150_fr.pdf

and page 3 of that

http://www.ferroli.fr/data/classes/prod ... _283_6.pdf

we can have the settings to factory settings ...

according to the method of extraction of smoke so it is clear that the power of the burner should be granted, and fairer if the output is in sucker ... (or more precisely wall outlet because if I'm not mistaken suction cup is intended gas, input and output taking place in the same conduit ....)

By cons if a boiler of this type orthe, cleaning soot on the walls exchanger is how? easy ? Regular ??

more this time ;)

[Tikteklak]

Hello,
I successfully used a sunp7 since 2012. He ets installed on a FERROLI sfl 3. Everything was installed and adjusted by me. Here qq some of my findings:
- The inclination of the worm's capital. If the angle is greater than 45 ° this can cause a broken pellet feed, with the key, several attempts to start (the burner is programmed to 3 ignition attempts before to default), a waste of energy for the spark plug and a waste pellets. Also it tends to create a plug in the pot (even blowing, the burner does not drain all the fuel)
- The quality of the pellet is important. Tests with a pellet containing a little starch (% 1 written on the bag) promotes machefer
- the draw is crucial. For a year, I struggled to have proper combustion. I measured the draft with a rented device (too large) and installed a €40 draft moderator. from there clean combustion, the t° of the fumes has dropped. Just before this installation, I had this problem of heat rising in the hose, one day when the draft was bad and combined with insufficient fan power... this created damage

Since these scrutineering, everything works nickel. I changed the hose by a stainless steel model (FYI caravan boiler pipe and motorhomes available from specialists). I adjusted the pellet feed settings reasoning thus:
20 need KW (this is the strength of my boiler)
approximately pellets 6kg about an hour heats
test the worm to see how many minutes it should run on about an hour to deliver 6kg
in the end I am very little from the factory settings

Hoping to have helped you.
Tikteklak

[bidouille23]

Hi Tikteklak,

thank you for the information you have just made (I do not know if Ramiro give news but who knows ... damage to initiate a process and stop along the way especially if the problem was solved ... we to share why and how would have been nice ... well ...)

your explanation corresponds to what was said, which confirms that the route was the right one;) cool, but the detail on the inclination of the endless screw is a significant plus, it is on this kind of detail that the 'we can spend a lot of time, and sometimes not think about this detail... (like looking for a leak in the cooling system of a car and in the end realizing after many hassles that it's the radiator hot air for the cabin leaking ...)


Too often the drawing is neglected, based on the habits of laying more than actual calculations and often without control with appropriate equipment ... for the pellet stove is the same ...

I come to your calculation:

knowing that the pci pellet is about 5 Kw.h / kg if you burn 6 kg per hour and it gives Kw.h 30 20 not kw.h (not 20Kw either;)).

I imagine that the combustion efficiency is 90% (I'm cool;)), returns to 87.5% boiler:

it must give us something like that if I'm not mistaken (a kind soul that passes will have many kind enough to correct if I say something stupid ).

((* 5 0.9) * 6). * = 875 23.62 Kw.h useful wholesale ...

according to which a good or bad combustion and an overall performance that fall (as in the case of too much draft), this figure can vary greatly depending on the case, while still consuming 6kg / hour pellet ...

must doc as you have explained well solve these little creatures not to be bothered;) ...

So thank you all for the owner of sunp7 which should be glad of your information.

see you

[Tikteklak]

Bidouille23 actually, you're right my numbers are wrong.
By taking my notes yesterday is actually 5kg / h assumption in 90% combustion efficiency and burner performance 85% (I took a bit of margin).
On the draw, the moderator is essential for me (surtt in the case of a long tubing) because it helps regulate and keep it within acceptable values.
The inclination of the worm is important because the opening for the entry of pellets into the screw is reduced in the event of excessive tilt.
There are two years now, I have also built a silo for storing 500kg me and I can assure you that it is a joy. The autonomy is about 1 months for me (well it does not prevent good weekly cleaning on).
Regarding the sun p7 after contact supplier, actually he has been arrested. Too bad, I find it quite effective. I will immediately order an ignition resistance to offset potential supply problem.
I remain available for those who need it.

[bidouille23]

Hi Tikteklak,

As for cleaning the dust before storing pellets in the silo is my opinion that passing the pellet in a cyclone can be an advantage (unless the pellet is virtually bloodless dust well but what I rarely think so, but I'm not an expert it is just an opinion).

In terms of resistance in the end it is only a bar that heats;) ... any other of the same power resistor will do, there must be a way to find one at least agree that, then I guess it's not Feroli which manufactures its own spark plug .. there is not a mark on your candle?

otherwise you take the dimensions and you look at vendors of stove parts, resistors there moult kinds ....

Thank you for your additional information, which I think will be helpful to others (too bad they do not come to say or to take stock of what was not going ...).

This has more good days and evenings etc etc ...;)