Stop or Lower Heating T ° during absence?

[max 01]

Hello

Our wood pellet boiler provides heating for 2 apartments with 2 completely separate circuits from the boiler.

We will be absent for 3 consecutive weeks in March / April.
(circuit 1)

The boiler will remain in operation for the apartment occupied during this period (circuit 2)

My question dictated for economic reasons is as follows:
One can Stop circuit 1 during our absence and restart it for example 2 days before our return.
Save on twenty days of heating - the rise in temperature of the apartment 2 days before our return.

Can also lower the T ° during our absence and make an ascent the last 2 days.

We live in the Lyon region where the temperatures are not excessively cold.

Economically, I don't know what would be the best formula.

Certainly many must ask this question .... what do you think ??

[elephant]

Two days before your return?

Is that a lot, or do you let it drop to what T °? Let's not forget that below a certain temperature, there are condensation problems.

[max 01]

Since the boiler will operate for circuit 2 there will be no condensation on it.
Where do you fear condensation?

We do not have a room thermostat, the heating engineer has entered values ​​that allow us to have indoor temperatures that suit us.

In normal use here are the temperature guidelines:
the comfort temperature setpoint is at 21 ° (it is actually 20 °)
the reduced T ° setpoint is 15 ° (it is actually 18 °)

I thought either A :
* lower the internal temperature for 20 days to 10 ° / 11 °.
* reset the normal cycle for the last 2 days before our return.
................................
or, B :
* completely stop circuit 1 (so no longer heat)
* restart circuit 1 in comfort position 2 days before our return.


The question is therefore which formula would save the most energy.

[Remundo]

apart from technical difficulties related to the complete shutdown of the heating (risk of freezing or any problem that could arise following the shutdown / restart ...)

The most economical way is to stop the heating completely.

In fact, the heat losses are proportional to the temperature differential between the outside and the inside, and to time.

Maintaining the heating maintains this differential for a very long time and therefore maintains an energy consumption which is useless if the building is not inhabited.

On the return, the ideal is to start the heating and to go shopping, after 3 or 4 hours, the temperature in the living rooms is not unbearable, even comfortable.

@+

[max 01]

I have calorie counters on each heating circuit.

I have consumed from the start of the heating period to date 7600 kw on circuit 1 which I can therefore stop completely according to your assessment.

By rule of 3 during our absence of 20 days this would represent a saving of 1600 kws ..... but it will be necessary to go back in T ° the house including the walls which will have evacuated their accumulation of heat.

Do you think this is worth it?

Thank you

[Did67]

The question is a do question:

- not heating obviously costs less than a little driver

- depending on the inertia of the house (insulation from the inside, or the outside, or not / little insulation), you will have to start by filling up on calories long enough in advance: 24 hours in good insulated from the inside; 48 hours in property that is insulated from the outside or not / poorly insulated ... This will provide maximum comfort on arrival = a house at room temperature ...

- the issue of condensation is also a false question: it is not the cold air that condenses; it is the cooling of hot air or the contcat of hot and humid air with a cold wall ...

So there is theoretically a possibility of condensation during the lowering phase; but conversely, the reheating phase will "dry" the air; the house will no longer have any activities, so there will be no more humidity (breathing, perspiration, cooking, showers, dry laundry are the main sources).

Stay it risk of frost !!! Normally, if you have good regulation, you have precisely a "frost-free" position. So this is the one to put on! The regulation will let the internal temperature run down to around 6 ° ...

Maximum savings / no risk of frost / it's the best. AND someone (if you don't have that in your regulation) who is waving in "normal" mode 1 to 2 days before [the "top" regulations include a "vacation" function, where you program the return date - or the duration of the absence, it is according to]

[max 01]

I have an Okofen that has this type of "vacation" regulation.
But I don't have a room thermostat (on the advice of the heating engineer who argues by saying that when the thermostat cuts the circulation this will stop the heating of the bathroom - which is a cold room and with the non-thermostatic tap always wide open))

The heating engineer has entered values ​​that allow us to have indoor temperatures that suit us.

In normal use here are the temperature guidelines:
the comfort temperature setpoint is at 21 ° (it is actually 20 °)
the reduced T ° setpoint is 15 ° (it is actually 18 °)

I programmed the regulation on "vacation" no problem for the period.

I wanted to put the T ° set point at 6 ° (as you say in frost free) but the regul does not accept it, it only accepts a minimum T ° of 10 °.
When I put below 10 ° a line in red indicates 10--40.
Maybe because there is no thermostat ????
The temperature of the house never going below 6 ° without heating I find it a shame to keep this heating between 6 ° and 10 °.

Is there a remedy ??

[/ I]

[dirk pitt]

almost everything has been said.
I will just add that as the heat loss is proportional to the difference in temperature inside / outside, the lower the inside temperature, the lower the economy.
so don't worry too much about putting the house at 10 ° instead of 6 °. the difference should be minimal. much lower in any case than between 20 and 16 for example.

[Did67]

In normal use here are the temperature guidelines:
the comfort temperature setpoint is at 21 ° (it is actually 20 °)
the reduced T ° setpoint is 15 ° (it is actually 18 °)

I programmed the regulation on "vacation" no problem for the period.

I wanted to put the T ° set point at 6 ° (as you say in frost free) but the regul does not accept it, it only accepts a minimum T ° of 10 °.
When I put below 10 ° a line in red indicates 10--40.

1) The differences between setpoint and temperature obtained, in particular in comfort mode, undoubtedly indicate that your heating curve is not ideally configured!

If with a set point of 21 °, you get 20 °, in the cold weather these days, I invite you to go up the slope by 0,1 or 0,2 ... Until it does 21 ° measured for a set point of 21 ° ...

After enough time for the balance to be achieved. And only one change per day.

2) It seems to me that in "vacation" mode, over the programmed period, the boiler automatically goes into "frost protection" (it seemed to me that it was 8 °). No need to change the setpoint. This is precisely the point of having a "vacation" mode ... Otherwise, in anticipation, it will go back to 8 ° for the return. Instead of 20 ° !!!!

So do not touch the instructions!

Vacation mode is a "derogatory" mode: the regulation does not do what it usually does!

Just as the "evening" mode (or "invitation"?) Maintains the comfort mode, so 20 ° for example, in the evening, instead of lowering (when you invite and the evening lasts!). Again, above all do not change the instruction.

Maybe take the trouble to read the User Manual ???

[Did67]

I will just add that as the heat loss is proportional to the difference in temperature inside / outside, the lower the inside temperature, the lower the economy.
so don't worry too much about putting the house at 10 ° instead of 6 °. the difference should be minimal. much lower in any case than between 20 and 16 for example.

There Dirk, you mess my hair !!!

The loss is proportional to the temperature difference.

An unheated house, by definition, consumes nothing! Its internal temperature will be tender, in summer "smoothed" by the average of the external temperature.

Another thing is the additional gain that an additional lowering will allow, in a mode where every day, we go from comfort to lowered>.

We lower from 20 to 17: we will win 90 (for 3 °)

We lower from 20 to 16: we will not win 120, but maybe 115

We lower from 20 to 15: we're not going to win 150, but maybe 130

Etc. ..

So in case long absences, a week or more, we will still have an interest in lowering more, at the limit of "frost protection", provided you go back in time. It may take two days to restore the calories it takes for the house to be at 20 ° again.