Valoucondors wrote:I propose to fix wooden slats, style 40/20 on the height and this every x cm, then I fix the remains of old parquet and between the wall and this parquet, I thought to fix pieces of cork stoppers, in bags or free? more possibly put a simple large plastic on the wall before starting, what do you think? ideas, suggestions, advice, thank you all and this site is great
The main problem is a sealing issue. As soon as air passes - one way or another - the benefit of the insulation will be lost.
But why put something? In the double windows, there is a gas or air and it insulates very well! (But as everyone knows, these windows are airtight.)
Back to cork. Why does this material insulate? Because it is light and all light materials are the best insulators there is (with air at the top of the pyramid).
So why do we put lightweight insulation panels instead of using free air? Precisely because the air must be confined to ensure insulation and it is not easy to do.
But I worked on your idea and there may be a solution.
For that, first of all, it is necessary to remove all the interstices of the wall to be insulated (remove any air path - including if there are electrical boxes / sockets, whose sheaths can be sealed with silicone, without put it in the socket itself - then also putty any cracks, etc.).
Then, why not drill joists the diameter of the standard interior neck of the bottles? Which would give this (with a hole provided to receive each plug every 20 or 30cm into which each plug would come to insert each time - we must make insertion tests and chamfer the orifice of the holes to remove their edges sharp -): Here is a FRONT VIEW canvas (of the wall to be insulated):
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It would then suffice to turn the plugs facing the wall (here represented with the letter "H" to show one part inserted and the rest "pending"), then fix with small brackets (in red) on the side wall (or a frame joist or intermediate vertical section)
(and not on the cold gable wall) PLAN VIEW:
[____________________________________________]
H______H______H______H______H______H______H______H
______________________(Wall)
If you want to hide the brackets, you can put them on the side of the joist, but it all depends on how you want to fix the wooden panels that will close the sections (section by section of dimension to be determined, and panels screwed on the joists taking advantage of their presence to make the joint) and which will cover the whole and ensure the seal (precisely in the area where we see the brackets on the plan view above in red).
Thus, to summarize, only the end of the plugs will rest on the wall, ensuring optimal insulation. Obviously it is better to proceed by section of caissons which allows to put vertical reinforcing joists, for good stability of the whole => for example every linear meter (instead of stoppers).
Sealing operations
1) The ideal is to make a frame in joists all around, to have a good seat and an easier sealing on the edges (but then it will be necessary to stick the joist to the polyurethane foam, which will seal at the same time) without counting the screwing to the wall, of course;
2) Without frame (or with), first you have to make / place a seal all around (side sides + ceiling side + ground side) perfectly waterproof, easier with a frame, which acts as a de facto seal if it is glued to the foam (if not a little more than the thickness of the cork stoppers, so that it comes "to force" and prevent any passage of air). This is more difficult to do because you have to be careful, but still easy by cutting 1 inch (at least) wide sections of polystyrene with a cutter.
extruded, and that each time it will be necessary to adjust between the 30cm spaces between each cork stoppers (on the edges of the frame and also against the sections). This joint can be glued using polyurethane foam (give it a try, it takes very little and it is also very tight if you put it all along ...).
3) To ensure the watertightness of the panels which will be screwed from the front into the joists, it can also be done with foam, but it is better to put a thin bead of silicone to place in the appropriate places, in case the 'we should dismantle one or the other of the panels one day ...
The advantages of this method VS to an insulation completely made of polystyrene panel, it is that:
- we use the ambient air and recovery plugs as insulation, which costs nothing (insulating, except the panels and joists);
- the insulation coefficient will be higher than the panels;
- there will be wooden panels more resistant than extruded polystyrene, on which we can possibly fix something not too heavy.
- you do it yourself using a little more free time, but it costs less.
- we can add a vapor barrier membrane (to avoid condensation problems)
The inconvenients
- if we have poorly insulated, if air passes, then we will lose the benefit of the insulation ... But we can verify this with a small compressor and a balloon. Just drill a hole and put a balloon in it to inflate. Then another small hole in which we will blow air with the compressor. The pressure will be stopped once the balloon is inflated. Then we will wait to see if the balloon remains under pressure (if so, there is no leak, if not, we have to plug it up and start again). If it deflates after 48 hours, it is better to leave it like that and it is rather a good sign, because it will allow the humidity to be evacuated ...
- therefore not careful workers, refrain ...
The advantages of insulation in polystyrene panels:
- it is cheaper in terms of implementation (whatever it is still better to cover with wood, because it is fragile)
- it is therefore less expensive, if we do not intend to protect by grooved-crested, but that does not prevent the creation of an airtight zone.
- the sealed area can still be colonized by mold if there is condensation that forms between the wall and the insulation;
- there can be no air leakage, but it is also better to seal with care.
In both cases, do not heat too much inside because of the many cold bridges (we are in ITI)