Back on the experience touting a wooden house 1949

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
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fabio.gel
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Back on the experience touting a wooden house 1949




by fabio.gel » 29/12/12, 20:12

Hi,

On this post I will present to you the retape I made of our wooden house which dates from 1949 (thank you Titi for the help)

Below the memory as I call it

Image

Orientation:
The facade faces south.

Work to do at the time:
-Full electricity (I leave because not stalled enough)
- Integral plumbing (I make the multilayer live)
-Heating (replacement of a gas stove by a pellet stove, I gave a helping hand for the installation of the smokehouse)
- Saunier Duval bath heater (which was used to add hot water when the CESI Rotex is too short, japatouché)
-Isolation (only remains a glass wool arched dead in the attic not convertible and I did everything).
-Asbestos removal of all the facade (I did it too and it's not fun to be a cosmonaut in summer)

South facade

Creation of vertical boxes with 200mm class 3 formwork boards.
The insulation is carried out with two 100 mm layers of camel / linen.
The whole is covered by a rain shield.

Image

The larch battens before cladding

Image

And the larch cladding

Image

In the attic I insulated with flax tow


Image

I put 40 cm which must not be far from an R = 10

Loose flax I find near my home and it is much cheaper than manufactured flax.

The floor in the house is covered with polyurethane plates 5mm thick, on which I have put a floating floor.

Result on the heating bill:

Without insulation the first year (1 ton of pellets)
With insulation this year:
- 8 bag of 15 Kg for now (and yes I still have an uninsulated basement)

Another photo on the gable without the fibro

Image

For the future :

- Addition of a heating resistance in the CESI Rotex (done)

- Addition of a load shedder for the heating resistance (thank you econologist friends).

- Cancellation of my contract with GDF and disassembly of my bath heater in addition to Rotex.

- The roof being full south with a slope of 28 °, I will install a Photovoltaic Kit of 3 Kw.

- Being in Normandy the two Rotex panels are just for the half season, I plan to install a third.

-And especially take care of my petios ...

Fabio
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Obamot
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by Obamot » 29/12/12, 21:04

Hello, thank you for this contribution.

Two things must escape me:

The facade faces south.

... yes but which of the four! : Lol:

Why does the insulation of the "wood" part in ITE not go down to cover the hard wall which is at the base of the extension of that of the foundations (and which in itself constitutes a cold bridge by Excellency).
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fabio.gel
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South facade with bay windows




by fabio.gel » 29/12/12, 22:33

Obamot wrote:Hello, thank you for this contribution.

Two things must escape me:

The facade faces south.

... yes but which of the four! : Lol:

Why does the insulation of the "wood" part in ITE not go down to cover the hard wall which is at the base of the extension of that of the foundations (and which in itself constitutes a cold bridge by Excellency).


Hi obamo

The facade which is in the South is where there is the most sun : Lol:

Sinon

The ITE descends on 30 cm below the connection between the foundations and the wooden floor of the house and for a reason of resistance to humidity, I am obliged to change the insulating materials on the remaining part of the basement.
I have thought about cork or polyurethane or even redo formwork with flax tow inside and in the exterior finish of fermacell H²0.
But hey for the moment the basement is an unheated workshop so it can wait ...
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Obamot
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Re: South facade with bay windows




by Obamot » 30/12/12, 01:22

fabio.gel wrote:
Obamot wrote:Hello, thank you for this contribution.

Two things must escape me:

The facade faces south.

... yes but which of the four! : Lol:

Why does the insulation of the "wood" part in ITE not go down to cover the hard wall which is at the base of the extension of that of the foundations (and which in itself constitutes a cold bridge by Excellency).


Hi Obamo [t]

The facade which is in the South is where there is the most sun : Lol:

MDR : Cheesy:

fabio.gel wrote:Sinon

The ITE descends on 30 cm below the connection between the foundations and the wooden floor of the house and for a reason of resistance to humidity, I am obliged to change the insulating materials on the remaining part of the basement.

Excellent! Yes.

fabio.gel wrote:I have thought about cork or polyurethane or even redo formwork with flax tow inside and in the exterior finish of fermacell H²0.
But hey for the moment the basement is an unheated workshop so it can wait ...

Why not! Cork is said to be the appropriate material (and other than that ... are there any novelties. There is the Delta MS, but you have to excavate a little, clean, tar and fix it) .
If Bidouille is passing ... It will give good leads.
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by BobFuck » 30/12/12, 01:29

It was really ugly ... but there, your wood siding really looks good, great transformation.

> I thought well of cork or polyurethane

It is waterproof, it would prevent moisture from coming out of the wall if it is inside. Must see.
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fabio.gel
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Infrared camera




by fabio.gel » 18/01/13, 20:43

I am lucky to have a thermal imager ready for the weekend (Thanks to my little brother).

I will be able to check the thermal bridges in the house.

Let's go north facade

Image

: Shock: oula basement radiates as much as the windows !!!

The gable in the East

Image

Okay, the garage door is older than me so no comment

The south facade

Image

The ITE has no faults so far

:D

The west gable did not show any defect.

I did not imagine that the basement could pump as many calories yet the floor between the ground floor and the basement is well insulated :frown:

I see what I have left to do ...
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fabio.gel
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Re: Infrared camera




by fabio.gel » 19/01/13, 08:22

I added a few more pictures of the house because as Obamot pointed out to me on a mp the walls should come out in blue or black.
The cause comes from snow as well as public lighting.

Image

Image
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