Need insulation for advice for my future work

[Plop]

Hello!
I just bought a house to renovate completely so this is an opportunity to improve the insulation!
But given the number of products on the market I get lost a little and this is where i need you!

I present to you in a few lines the project:
First of all I would like to insulate from the inside even if it is not ideal. (I have just completely renovated the facade)
I live in Belgium on the edge of the Ardennes
elevation 240m
It is a 4-facade house and they are solid brick walls with a thickness of 32 cm.
PVC frame with double glazing everywhere.
The floor area is 75m² and I have a floor of the same area and another attic above it all

For the moment I am heating myself with an oil central heating with a consumption of + or - 2-3000l
Soon I will also install a stove with a boiler and a buffer tank to limit the use of fuel oil.

So I would like to insulate the attic floor and the walls of the house. As for the thickness I have no idea yet. I am looking for good performance with a reasonable price
I plan to do the work myself.
I have already done some research and if possible I would like to avoid mineral wool.
I also looked at the side of lime-hemp coatings but I don't really like the finishes that we have with these products.
On the other hand, cellulose wadding seems to be a good product, is it possible to use it for walls? with boxes?

And now it's up to you!
What do you think ? Do you have any ideas to help me make the right choice?

Thank you in advance for your answers.

[bidouille23]

slut,

First I would say that the heating must compensate for the loss of the lack of insulation so insulated is less to pay for heating.

then I would say that respecting the references that you will find below in the table below "key point" will give you satisfaction for a long time if it is well done.

http://www.futura-sciences.com/fr/maiso ... thermique/

then that here you can calculate your need for wadding to reach the coefficients seen before in the table

http://www.univercell.fr/services/calcu ... nivercell/

it works for all wadding wholesale.

then, take care of the break in the vapor barrier at the level of the brick and vapor barrier if the roof space can be converted and without a waterproof wind barrier film, otherwise by vapor, you follow me
Who says vapor barrier say vmc

If the attic is not fitted blows the wadding if not made boxes of 60cm wide because poses doubling plates I imagine. otherwise it's 80 cm max with 6 m high max (but the less you have the height the less you have compaction so 2 to 3 m are fine.

For walls between 30kg / m3 and 40kg / m3, for attics from 45kg / m "to 55kg / m3

it is a technique to have, but it is simple watching videos on the subject you should quickly capture. if not ask questions;).

thickness you tell me, look at the calculator below in practical info

a yes if the roof is undeveloped you blow the cotton wool and you look on the calculator the final thickness, and you check at pp how much your ceiling can support, look at your joists, number of state etc, seeing that you have chosen the density you know what weight you are adding.

here I like cotton wool as insulation, it is the best value for money apart from the straw;).

already a bit of a fact I think

[Plop]

Thank you for this very clear answer!
So I looked at the links you gave me and to have good performance I should put between 30 and 40 cm thick in the attic and 15-20 cm for the walls.

Now I have a few more questions

For my attic I will put a vapor barrier on my joists, then for the junction of the vapor barrier at the level of the brick I use what kind of glue? something like that http://www.rectavit.be/fr/ProductTechnischeFiche.aspx?productid=57 would be effective?

And for my walls if I make closed boxes as in the video, do I also have to put a vapor barrier or is it not necessary?

Then you say that a vmc would be necessary however it seems to me that I will always have a little losses: air leak towards the cellar, chassis not quite waterproof. If I ventilate the rooms every day by opening the windows, won't that be enough?

[bidouille23]

arrrf I just lost the message that I took 1 hour to write (christophe how it is done after a while have lost the connection and have to reconnect suddenly have lost the message grrrrrrrrrr ).

Well, I'm going to do it again in a nutshell:

Attic or not (I imagine that not seen that you tell me about FV on the joists)?

Glue, it looks like glued but prefer glue provided by manufacturers in general they are well suited.

Side break detail and principle go here

http://www.materiaux-naturels.fr/fiche- ... limat.html

click on the characteristics pdf;) (diagrams and explanations are there)

then for your convenience the job of knowing if this or that vapor control will go, the problem is the pink point, if it is in the insulation it's not cool at all so go here

http://mayar.over-blog.com/categorie-793806.html

download hygrothermal balance 1.6.3

and here :

http://mayar.over-blog.com/5-categorie-793806.html

how to use;).

you will have the choice for materials etc etc.

"And for my walls if I make closed boxes like in the video, do I also have to put a vapor barrier or is it not necessary?"
yes, the principle is to control the air so we make sure that there are no holes left, we stick scotch etc around everything between strips, on the doc proclimat is well explain you will see .

"Then you say that a vmc would be necessary however it seems to me that I will always have a little of the losses: air leak towards the cellar, frame not completely waterproof. If I ventilate the rooms every day by opening the windows will not be enough? "

If vapor barrier yes vmc obligatory, if vapor barrier vmc highly recommend in damp rooms but on the other hand openings on doors and windows obligatory (the small opening at the top of the windows;)).
I refer you here for more explanations;):

http://www.lamaisonpassive.be/ventilation

depending on the number of people and the time spent in the room we have to ventilate more or less logical.

So the usefulness (but not the obligation) of a dual flow vmc also becomes logical, so as not to lose too much calorie provided by the heating means otherwise the birds are heated;).

So on average at least 15 min of open window ventilation should be sufficient but, vmc in humid rooms is much much better;).

another question? after all the reading that I have just given you you will be largely set to do everything in the rules of art.


Ps advice on insufflation:
starts at the bottom, in the corners of the boxes;) then at the bottom, and waits for the machine to roar as if it is crumbling (which is actually the case ) and begins to climb.
And make holes every meter app, and control the compaction by pressing the brake film or vapor barrier and by comparison you will see whether or not there is wadding missing in certain places, do not hesitate to redo a hole in this case and re-inject;).


good reading

[Plop]

Yes
More complete than that we would not know! I read everything and it's really very interesting! I thought it would have been simpler in fact!: P Here every detail counts!

For my attic it would be possible to arrange it given the height available but I have an old frame not very straight, no under-roofing and since the house is big enough I don't think I will do it.

And for wadding do you advise with or without boron salt? I saw that there were several kinds and I believe that boron salt is useful against critters, right?

In any case, a big thank you for all this information!

Well now there is more to it than ....

[dedeleco]

arrrf I just lost the message that I took 1 hour to write (christophe how it is done after a while have lost the connection and have to reconnect suddenly have lost the message grrrrrrrrrr ).

crucial, to do ctrlA ctrl C before sending the message !!!

to be able to recover !!

or go back on <--- back to the previously displayed pages, after connecting to find your old page with its text stored in memory, at least on firefox much better !!!

Finally use free Cilpboard Recorder, which stores dozens of Ctrl C instead of one, very practical and fundamental !!


econologie seems to disconnect much faster than before a few minutes instead of hours !!

[bidouille23]

Slut,

Dedelco, I just got into the habit of backspace and CtrlC;), actually I also have the impression that disconnection is faster now.

Plop, as for boron salt, well what can I say, in American and Canada it is classified on the black list of carcinogenic product, not in Europe therefore ???? useful against mushrooms and critters yes, what to do to be a bit tough, can be simply sprinkled with lime in the machine as you go along, it'll calm down all the critters and mushrooms that could develop if there were water at one time or another , of course with or without lime mask required during the break .

And good job and happy to have been able to help you

[Obamot]

Generally speaking, I am Ok with what Bidouille is saying, and we could add that as this is an attempt to isolate from the inside, nothing is guaranteed (I mean that we are never at safe from surprises) and there are many reasons. In particular as Bidouille said because of the dew point but also of the cold bridges (or thermal bridges) ... This is why I would advise the author of this thread, not to preciptier, nor to burn the steps ... Besides, I would start with the roof, which always allows you to decide later on whether to do a facade insulation (which will not require much more insulating material and often even less since we remove facto the thermal bridges of the slabs => therefore insulation over a width of 1m less .... Or all the floor surfaces, always difficult to achieve with the low coefficient of floor coverings given their low thickness .. In short, with a facade insulation we avoid a LOT of potential worries and it is possible to guarantee a final result close to the ideal) ...

As for the cost, given the fuel oil consumption saved, it would pay for itself in just 3 or 4 heating seasons if you do the work yourself ...

[bidouille23]

I knew I had forgotten something but I was counting on you Obamot to remind me .

Yes the external insulation is better but the same attention to the point of rosé if the vapor liquefies in the oulalala wall, then you have to calculate the rosé point very well in this case.

Case of the dovecote dating back two hundred years which had to be demolished some 6 or 8 months after renovation in external insulation because the point of rosé was in the wall, thus watering them, suddenly goodbye mechanical stability and hello bulldozer.

Obamot you have looked at the worksheet, Yogurt, "hygrothermal balance" is really not badly done at all and completely free of rights;).

[Plop]

I'm already going to start with the attic floor, but for the rest I don't know what to do since it is a "ruin" that I am completely renovating, the walls have not been maintained for 30 years and the cob that is above falls by itself.

As for the exterior insulation, this is out of the question, I had the facade sanded and I recovered a magnificent brick

But then if I insulate from the inside I will spend money for nothing or will I still have a drinking result? I also spoke with someone who had put up signs like that http://www.knaufinsulation.fr/fr/products/acoustiplac and who was delighted, what do you think?