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Hello
Recently I renovated the interior of my house, insulation, decoration, and drop some partitions to make me a living room of 50m².
Now I have a nice living space with open kitchen but there is a big temperature difference between this room and the other rooms of the house.
Indeed I made a small calculation on a simulator and I see that it takes no less than 6500W to heat this room while I have 4500W radiators.
There is 50m² on the ground, 2,35m under ceiling, 4 walls giving on the outside, two windows, two doors windows, two doors of entries and a soil on crawl space (50cm approximately).
This lack of power generates overconsumption of gas because it takes much longer to reach 19 ° C, as in rooms or the bathroom for example.
I compensate the overconsumption by installing the wireless thermostat in one of the rooms, but in this case the temperature drops to 16 ° C or 17 ° C in the living room despite the good insulation of the walls.
I can replace only one radiator (1700w) by a radiator more powerful (3500w) but it is overpriced.

I had the idea to turn this radiator fan coil to improve its performance by adding a centrifugal fan.
Do you think it can work?
I already bought a column fan that I put under the radiator.
If it works I intend to do the same on the other radiators in this room by making a small wooden box with the integrated fan.

As you watched if the radiator setting tees are open in large ...

If you have broken walls you have not pit the ground again? Floor heating low T ° it's cool ...

Hello
No problem tees are open at 100%.
The work is finished and I do not have a heating floor unfortunately.
That's why I'm trying to improve what I have.
I know that the heated floor is ideal !! sniff
22 ° C ambient for 28 ° C maximum ground is giant. Not to mention that you can walk barefoot.
I stop, I hurt myself.

I just started the small fan and it works well. If my measure is good I gain 5 ° C on the delta T ° input radiator output.
I continue the measures to be certain of the improvement.

It is certain that in forced convection you improve the exchange and therefore the power of the radiator!

But uh for thermal comfort, the opposite would be better no? That is to say blow by or from the top, warm air at the level of the floor.

Depending on the fan you use, you may be able to test the 2 modes quite easily.

The problem will be the tightness at the level of the "ends" of the radiator not?

ps: what is the simulator you use?

Hello,

For a similar reason I did a test last year with a tangential fan from home ... d the electronics dealer. It worked partially but mostly it allowed me to see that the fins of my aluminum profile radiators were completely blocked by miners ... cleaned it was already better.

That said, whatever the method, you must have the necessary power or you will gain little.


cordially

I used the site simulator ACOVA radiators.

On inlet / outlet water temperatures I get a delta of 18 ° C in 1 speed and 20 ° C in 3 speed against 13 ° C ventilation at shutdown.

The heating circulator is 1m3 / h or 0,27kg / sec.
There are 8 radiators. If I divide the flow of the circulator by the number of radiator I get:
0,0348kg / sec of water passing in this radiator.
Is it correct ?
because in this case the power of the radiator goes from 1800w of origin to 2900w in speed 3 of ventilation.

PITMIX wrote:Is it correct ?

No I do not think because unless the pressure drop of each radiator are identical (very unlikely) you do not know what happens as flow through radiator. Same remark for the total real head loss very delicate to know. In short know the precise flow of a heating circuit is not easy ... except measurement at the flowmeter ..

On the other hand the radiator power "manufacturer" is given for, it seems to me, 20 ° C of delta between 90 and 70 ° C and X ° C of T ° of air (it must have a standard which defines this). To check.

What is on it is that you will win 20 / 13 = 53% compared to the starting power (but we do not know it precisely).

Yes I agree, the pump curve and the rest is too variable depending on the lengths of pipes, the height of water columns and other losses, valves, elbows.
Actually I think that the power is given for a DT ° 20 ° C by the manufacturer and the fan allows me to reach this value and that is verified.

The sensation is just as difficult to analyze because the temperature of the room is more homogeneous but the temperature of the radiator drops considerably and the radiation is all the more reduced.
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1 speed ventilation

The blowing temperature above the radiator


Temperature recovery below the radiator


The water temperature at the radiator inlet


The water temperature at the radiator outlet


Delta T ° inlet / outlet radiator


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Ventilation at a standstill

Temperature above the radiator



Temperature recovery below the radiator


Water temperature at the radiator inlet


Water temperature at the radiator outlet


Delta T ° radiator inlet / outlet

of course, to ventilate the radiator will reduce the water temperature neccessaire

but it is useless to form the radiator to properly channel the air flow ... it will increase the efficiency of hot air production, but cut the direct radius

simply let the fan blow under the radiator, and tanpis if a part of the flow passes next to

Another idea to try if the fan is powerful enough, put the fan up and blow down! it will break the stratification of hot air that would like to stick to the ceiling

PITMIX wrote:Do you think it can work?

Absolutely. I did the same by putting a milar leaf behind the radiator to reflect the heat into the room. But I only use a fan beast oriented 45 ° or blowing on the side (I specify that I have a central heating oil).
The disadvantage is that the air becomes very dry ... but it is suitable for very humid housing! Be careful, some sensitive or allergic people may have some problems with that.
I will see this type of installation also useful in a pseudo-passive house (renovation) if we add a filter to purify the air ...