My question is simple: can an EDF meter go "naturally" out of order during its life for an X or Y reason.
If yes, in what proportion and for what reasons? Kk1 on the forum said humidity was a problem. Obviously if it is possible there is as much chance that it is in + that a minus I suppose ...
Then how to check it? Logically it is up to the operator to do so and to prove that HIS equipment is in good working order.
I ask myself the question because I noticed that we had a fairly high consumption (5kWh per 24 hours when we are not there when we have no electric heating ... I find it a bit big for 1 fridge and 1 freezer and 2 or 3 small household appliances like an alarm clock of 0.75W) and with our PM230 I cannot find the station which "on" consumes ...
So I wonder if it could simply be that the meter has a blow in the wing?
Electricity: reliability of EDF consumption meters?
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you can check it by isolating the devices, yes you have to unplug everything for a moment to see if it still counts ...
also check the T ° C you have chosen for fridges and freezers, check their powers ... defrost / clean them if necessary.
> I imagine that you do not have an electric water heater connected for the DHW? if, for the extra?
because these nuclear beasts operate in "all or nothing" ...
otherwise I know that my EDF disc counter slows down with a magnet nearby, and increases if I take it off for a while, to return to normal ... it is the eddy currents which are sensitive to it.
also check the T ° C you have chosen for fridges and freezers, check their powers ... defrost / clean them if necessary.
> I imagine that you do not have an electric water heater connected for the DHW? if, for the extra?
because these nuclear beasts operate in "all or nothing" ...
otherwise I know that my EDF disc counter slows down with a magnet nearby, and increases if I take it off for a while, to return to normal ... it is the eddy currents which are sensitive to it.
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I have already more or less done this: I switched 1 by 1 each circuit breaker and I can NOT find what consumes ...
Now I could make a more advanced diagnosis .... over 24 hours!
But this will not give an accurate calibration unless we know exactly what is connected to the fuse in question ...
No we have NOTHING AT ALL (except the oven and the washing machine) which has an electrical resistance! but during the 24 hours of absence he did not turn ...
Ah interesting the magnet blow ... but This is theft (note this is easier to do and less dangerous than a complete bypass!)
But is there no risk of accelerating it with the magnet?
Now I could make a more advanced diagnosis .... over 24 hours!
But this will not give an accurate calibration unless we know exactly what is connected to the fuse in question ...
No we have NOTHING AT ALL (except the oven and the washing machine) which has an electrical resistance! but during the 24 hours of absence he did not turn ...
Ah interesting the magnet blow ... but This is theft (note this is easier to do and less dangerous than a complete bypass!)
But is there no risk of accelerating it with the magnet?
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if, if you take it off.
what is annoying is that all that makes a little noise, and certainly disturbances .. well not + that it already makes it normally (measured with an electromagnetic field detector, it does not care a little balls elsewhere) : it must be put in a small thick insulated box for noise and aluminum inside for field leaks (faraday cage) ...
as for the flight ..; When I see the increases in EDF I know who the thief is ... and a magnet can be removed quickly! -)
what is annoying is that all that makes a little noise, and certainly disturbances .. well not + that it already makes it normally (measured with an electromagnetic field detector, it does not care a little balls elsewhere) : it must be put in a small thick insulated box for noise and aluminum inside for field leaks (faraday cage) ...
as for the flight ..; When I see the increases in EDF I know who the thief is ... and a magnet can be removed quickly! -)
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I just received a counter for 30 € (shipping included) from Bobono des forums
It is a 1967 model, it works .... finally it turns.
1st cold reaction:
a) the currently installed and newer house meter has a free "K" of 187,5 rpm / kWh
b) that of 1967 has a free "K" of 1,8 Wh / rev 555 rpm / kWh
I did not think there was such a difference in calibration between 2 meters.
Which one is therefore the most reliable in your opinion (assuming that none of them are obviously out of order)?
Anyway I will calibrate this counter with a device whose consumption I know precisely.
It is a 1967 model, it works .... finally it turns.
1st cold reaction:
a) the currently installed and newer house meter has a free "K" of 187,5 rpm / kWh
b) that of 1967 has a free "K" of 1,8 Wh / rev 555 rpm / kWh
I did not think there was such a difference in calibration between 2 meters.
Which one is therefore the most reliable in your opinion (assuming that none of them are obviously out of order)?
Anyway I will calibrate this counter with a device whose consumption I know precisely.
Last edited by Christophe the 03 / 09 / 08, 21: 27, 1 edited once.
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edf counter
I note that the meter is well received.
There is something wrong. one can minus 10% error
555 t / KW * 2.4 KW = 1332 turn for a 100w lamp for 24 hours
1332/1440 min = 0.93 revolutions min.
In real or visual I found 1 rpm.
I do not think the counters are not fair if well vertical position. To have .
I remind you that all EDF meters must be replaced in France
First on a few departments then the rest of France and guessed who will pay.
There is something wrong. one can minus 10% error
555 t / KW * 2.4 KW = 1332 turn for a 100w lamp for 24 hours
1332/1440 min = 0.93 revolutions min.
In real or visual I found 1 rpm.
I do not think the counters are not fair if well vertical position. To have .
I remind you that all EDF meters must be replaced in France
First on a few departments then the rest of France and guessed who will pay.
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Yes well received Bobono!
I have a little hallucinating the packaging that you made me ...
I explain for the others: 3 nested boxes, with between each a thickness of 3 to 5 cm of plastic bag in balls (garbage bag of recycling), the bottom "shock absorber": old paper handkerchiefs (uh not used I hope eh !!)!
I took 5 minutes to open it! Especially because of the stoch crust that you put all around! Waw you had to spend 1/4 hr packing all of this!
For verticality I think it is very important on the contrary ... horizontal the counter just does not rotate ... so I think we can slow it down.
Ok for 10% error I will try to confirm this calibration.
I have a little hallucinating the packaging that you made me ...
I explain for the others: 3 nested boxes, with between each a thickness of 3 to 5 cm of plastic bag in balls (garbage bag of recycling), the bottom "shock absorber": old paper handkerchiefs (uh not used I hope eh !!)!
I took 5 minutes to open it! Especially because of the stoch crust that you put all around! Waw you had to spend 1/4 hr packing all of this!
For verticality I think it is very important on the contrary ... horizontal the counter just does not rotate ... so I think we can slow it down.
Ok for 10% error I will try to confirm this calibration.
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Normally, the official meters in Belgium are at least class II, i.e. with 2% more or less error. We do not laugh because it is a commercial transaction: we do not tolerate such an error at your butcher!
The number of laps by Kw has nothing to do with it: just a question of reduction in the watch movement. In my opinion, if it wears out, it brakes ...
Okay, now, maybe put the church in the middle of the village with occasional drinks.
The smallest fridge of very good quality (A +) consumes 1,1 to 1,3 KWh / 24 hours, but does not consume all the time
punctuals:
the coffee machine: 300 Wh (unless you are super speedé)
TV: 3 hours: 1 good KWh / day
computer: 150 Wh per hour: 12h / day: 1,8 KWh
lighting: even if you are super stingy: easy 6 hours at 300 Wh
a hot meal: 1 to 1,5 KWh
don't forget that the standard consumption of a low-electrified household (no boiler, no electric stove) is around 3500 KWh / year, or 10 KWh / day
I remember helping the owners of an apartment building one day to find out why the utility bills were so high: the central heating circulator.
There is of course the leak to the ground: 300mA 24/24, it can be 1,550 KWh / day, but it would have been a long time since your differential f ... the bren.
And of course, the nonsense like the cellar or toilet lamp that we forgot ...
Finally ... if it can help you: my company installs excellent photovoltaic panels (gniak gniak)
The number of laps by Kw has nothing to do with it: just a question of reduction in the watch movement. In my opinion, if it wears out, it brakes ...
Okay, now, maybe put the church in the middle of the village with occasional drinks.
The smallest fridge of very good quality (A +) consumes 1,1 to 1,3 KWh / 24 hours, but does not consume all the time
punctuals:
the coffee machine: 300 Wh (unless you are super speedé)
TV: 3 hours: 1 good KWh / day
computer: 150 Wh per hour: 12h / day: 1,8 KWh
lighting: even if you are super stingy: easy 6 hours at 300 Wh
a hot meal: 1 to 1,5 KWh
don't forget that the standard consumption of a low-electrified household (no boiler, no electric stove) is around 3500 KWh / year, or 10 KWh / day
I remember helping the owners of an apartment building one day to find out why the utility bills were so high: the central heating circulator.
There is of course the leak to the ground: 300mA 24/24, it can be 1,550 KWh / day, but it would have been a long time since your differential f ... the bren.
And of course, the nonsense like the cellar or toilet lamp that we forgot ...
Finally ... if it can help you: my company installs excellent photovoltaic panels (gniak gniak)
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