Problem chandelier halogen replacement LED by g4

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tophe59540
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Problem chandelier halogen replacement LED by g4




by tophe59540 » 10/01/15, 22:56

Hello I have a problem with a remote control chandelier
it consists of a switch 3 transformer for halogen and 1 tranfo for the led ramp suici a pti box to have a constant 5v I think
There is therefore a halogen circuit and a led
I replace the 11 halogenes by led to be in full led
it's going to work for a while and then it has to break
I put back the original halogen bulb its finally works the 11 halogen
but when i turn on the original led circuit everything goes off again
and whenever I turn them on
whereas it worked very well just before the bulb change
so I say that I have something to burn but what
thanks for any help
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Here are the photos of the chandelier switch and circuit led




by tophe59540 » 10/01/15, 23:15

Image
Image
Image
Image
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here is the halogen circuit but it works properly




by tophe59540 » 10/01/15, 23:22

1w's 80w
Image
And 2 from 105w
Image
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tophe59540
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after deduction




by tophe59540 » 10/01/15, 23:28

On the remote the 2 first buttons manage the halogen and all that passes
well so I think is his vien of the led transformer (one of the 2 black boxes)
Or the switch that disjoints the differential
I specify that when I turn on the led with the remote control
it lights up for half a second before its disjoint
It's weird I'm lost
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tophe59540
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after deduction




by tophe59540 » 10/01/15, 23:34

On the remote the 2 first buttons manage the halogen and all that passes
well so I think is his vien of the led transformer (one of the 2 black boxes)
Or the switch that disjoints the differential
I specify that when I turn on the led with the remote control
it lights up for half a second before its disjoint
It's weird I'm lost
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elephant
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by elephant » 11/01/15, 11:30

Electronic transformers (which are actually switching power supplies) have two limits, a max and a MINIMUM.
If they do not reach a certain load, they will chime or slam.
The other day I replaced my 4 halo 35 Watts 12 V by 4 X 5 W led, but I replaced the transformer of 150 watt (min 35) with an 70 (min 20)
and I added a 10 halo watts to ensure continuity of charge.

(Let's not forget that in addition, the LEDs have a brief interruption time around the zero-volt path, since the diodes do not conduct below a certain threshold). it does not facilitate the task of the switching power supply.

Eventually, replace the electronic transformer with a good old "iron-copper" or a "special led's" transformer of the right power.
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elephant Supreme Honorary éconologue PCQ ..... I'm too cautious, not rich enough and too lazy to really save the CO2! http://www.caroloo.be
tophe59540
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by tophe59540 » 11/01/15, 17:58

elephant wrote:Eventually, replace the electronic transformer with a good old "iron-copper" or a "special led's" transformer of the right power.

"A copper iron" I don't see what it is ??
Otherwise I look for a transformer but on mine there is written
Dc 5v stabilish
and frenchement I find no constant 5v
and especially there is no value of amperage on my boxes
Especially since I do not know which black box to replace
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tophe59540
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by tophe59540 » 11/01/15, 18:30

elephant wrote:Eventually, replace the electronic transformer with a good old "iron-copper" or a "special led's" transformer of the right power.

"A copper iron" I don't see what it is ??
Otherwise I look for a transformer but on mine there is written
Dc 5v stabilish
and frenchement I find no constant 5v
and especially there is no value of amperage on my boxes
Especially since I do not know which black box to replace
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by RV-P » 11/01/15, 21:01

- Moreover, I understand that these "electronic" transformers deliver AC current of several tens of kilohertz, and not 50 Hz! Gold, the rectifying LEDs of the LED lamps are only foreseen for 50 Hz (kind 1N4001-7 CMS) ! What should be done is straighten high frequency alternating current of the "electronic" transformer by diodes QUICK (which look like power transistors) from eg computer power supplies or old TV chassis and smooth this current (by electrochemical capacitor, fast too!) BEFORE powering the LED lamps!
- That's how I got home LED lamps whose diodes had slammed and the integrated electronic circuit was intact!
- As for the power, it is a false problem because who can the most can the least!
- So rectify the current coming out of electronic transformers with FAST LEDs before feeding your LED lamps with!
- I am sure that the rectifying diodes of your LED lamps must be dead! Disassemble one to see ...
- NOTE: an "iron-copper" transformer is a normal 50 Hz transformer, heavier and less powerful than the electronic transformer!
- @ +!
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by elephant » 11/01/15, 23:01

No, no, RV-P: the electronic transformers do have a minimum power: it is written on it, we see it on the photos.

a transformer iron-copper is a good old transformer: copper coils on an iron core.

when the recovery, it will change the tension: hazardous.

I think it's better to forget your post and stick to what I said: put an electronic transformer adapted to the power of the sum of 11 new led bulbs. The ideal is to go to a wholesaler of electrical equipment or an electrician with the practice of LED's, not to a hardware store.

It is the Jindel processors that need to be replaced.

What are the characteristics of the 11 led's that you placed in place of halogens?
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