forums energies: society, ecology and clean technologies

Hello the subject has already been discussed here but:

https://www.econologie.com/forums/nettoyage- ... 12229.html

There, I just cleaned the windows of my fireplace without any products except water and the result is quite satisfactory.
Much better than chemicals.
No need to dip the sponge in the ash, either.
Just clear water (at the start ).
We must insist on the green scraping side of the sponge when it is really black, but without effort.

As Christophe reminds us, often homes have their own glass system, but in my case, given the size of the home, it is a crazy outbreak that must be done to clean the windows.

Maybe you had already tested?

Personally I had tried the newspaper method soaked in water and ash "a real pain "

Just in the water? Interesting but one water is not the other ... maybe yours is particularly fabulous? I am thinking of the ph, limestone ... which can make the water more "pickling"?

Has anyone tried vinegar yet?

No, the water is hard but not too hard 28.2 ° F. It is treated upstream from the drawing by a power plant at Torcy 77. It should be between 30 and 40 ° F.
I see the difference compared to the water in my parents which is between 30 and 40 ° F in the south of France.

I think that most of the work is done by the glass which is treated, on the side opposite the fire, to be self-cleaning.
It reduces the radiation to the outside and increases the temperature of the glass to reduce the adhesion of the soot.
It is the majority of glasses for fireplaces I think, because I have already replaced a glass on an old insert, with a standard ceramic glass, it becomes uniformly black from the first flame, and there it is a real pain to clean.

The ash which is often used on a damp cloth is effective, but it would be better however to avoid using it because the fine particles of silica which it contains may damage the glass in the long run.
It was a technique very used in the past to polish the blades of knives which were not stainless ...

Yes Ahmed, I believe more that the risk of scratching the glass comes from there, rather than the abrasive green side of the sponge. Regarding water I found the information on the PH it is from 7.75 to 7.8 unitpH.

Hello PITMIX

PITMIX wrote:I think that most of the work is done by the glass which is treated, on the side opposite the fire, to be self-cleaning.
It reduces the radiation to the outside and increases the temperature of the glass to reduce the adhesion of the soot.
It is the majority of glasses for fireplaces I think, because I have already replaced a glass on an old insert, with a standard ceramic glass, it becomes uniformly black from the first flame, and there it is a real pain to clean.

When the glass of my René Brisach insert cracked, I replaced it with a very standard "ceramic glass" and that did not change anything in the accumulation of grime ..... which follows the fixing / sealing leaks / imperfections which cause air inlets. Where it yawns it's black. Elsewhere it's clean.

Are you sure that your glass seal did not swell during assembly?

Hello Flytox
Yes you are certainly right because for the example of standard ceramic glass that I give it was on another chimney and air passed through the top of the glass because the dimension was not correct, it was missing 1cm at the top .
On my current chimney the blackening it is especially the lack of heat of the hearth because of its size 770x770x400mm.
In order for the panes to turn white again on their own, you have to heat up to the point of ending up in briefs in the living room
I have already done so, the radiation is so strong that one has the impression of having 40 ° C of fever. It is very unpleasant.

Hello
to reduce this blackening, it is necessary to reduce or remove the side seals of the glass to generate a stream of air which repels smoke.
In any case it works for me!

Janic wrote:Hello
to reduce this blackening, it is necessary to reduce or remove the side seals of the glass to generate a stream of air which repels smoke.
In any case it works for me!

The blackening comes from the dust in the ambient air which sticks to the very hot glass or is it the "wood gas" which condenses / tars on contact with a colder area?
Or a mixture of the 2

It's the blackish marks around the ceiling ventilation vents that appear over time that remind me of that.

Personally, Wet Sponge + Ash when water is not enough.

At the same time, my window is already completely scratched, since it must be 20 years old.

Ice water seems to work better than hot water (thermal shock?)

I had tested with the scraping side of the sponge, but the result did not seem top and I had the impression of scratching the glass.

Above all, in order not to have a hard time with cleaning, you must not get too dirty.

When in use, air intake fully open or fully sufficient and insert sufficiently loaded.

On ignition, "Top Down" start.
2 logs with the space between the logs preferably positioned above the air intake holes.
Small wood, trying to make a tower or a small pile of wood. (twigs of cut and dried shrubs from the garden).

The small pile of wood heats without smoking too much, raises the temperature of the enclosure and causes the larger wood to be taken below.
Once it starts to accelerate, I reload a little bigger wood and go.

The method can be a bit long to set up to form a structure that will burn and heat enough, but there is very little smoke emitted at startup. (therefore very little fouling of the glass and the duct).

Subsequently my window tends to clog when the insert cools or when I refill with wood.
If I can heat the wood in the insert before putting it on top of the embers, there is very little fouling on reloading.

When I do it right, I sometimes have only a small gray veil that leaves in 2 or 3 sponges instead of the brown film of tar / smoke that must be rubbed insistently.

SixK