Make your own soaps: cold saponification

[culbuto]

it consists of making your own soap: by the reaction soda oil, then time. several weeks for it to happen. Basically you have 3 kinds of soaps:
manufacturers mix water, salt, oil and soda in a heated tank. The soap precipitates to the bottom in 6 hours, ready to use or almost (these are the noodles) and the glycerin floats. recovered, it is sold separately for cosmetics, moisturizers, etc. there are no small profits ........ that's why their soap "pulls" the skin.
These noodles are transformed directly into soap, or sold to "artisans" who heat them, add a few drops of argan, donkey milk and it's magic! their soap becomes "donkey milk soap" or argan soap. 5 euros the soap ......... pretty scam ........;
cold soaps: you need a calculator, equipment and reading!
http://www.aroma-zone.com/aroma/fiche_s ... #intropage
read the precautions: soda is dangerous all the same.
in pictures:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hydqvoG9Lck

personally I boycott the palm oil which hardens the soap. Pure olive soap is softer, but if you leave it for several months, it's almost as hard as palm oil.
For the temperature, since I opted for raw mare's milk or seawater, on the contrary, you have to work cold. with a reaction that goes up to 100 degrees. therefore mandatory tip!

1) I freeze my quantity of milk. 24
2) I prepare my material.
3) I weigh the soda last. from there, it's 30 minutes when I won't even answer the phone!
4) in a cold bain-marie (cold water + ice cubes) I put my container to work, the ice cube of milk in it and a few drops of milk to start. Slowly I incorporate the soda while "stirring" vigorously. For the 126g of soda (one liter of olive oil) I put 30 minutes to dissolve the soda, especially avoiding heating the milk. If it turns yellow, be careful. it must be avoided that it turns brown or that it smells of heated milk.
5) the hardest part is done. the ice cube has melted with the soda but not overheated. I add my oil at room temperature, mixing.
6) on the trace (it makes mayonnaise roughly!), I add 5% additional oil for the 5% surgras, essential oils, plants etc.
7) I mold
8) unmold 24 hours later
9) wait several months if possible

these soaps are also used for shower gel, shampoos, etc.

[Obamot]

Thank you for this interesting subject, well done and welcome to this forum!

Can use the calculator, at aroma-zone there is no macerate of laurel berries to make homemade Aleppo soap! How do I do the proportions?

It seems that using berry / bay leaf macerate would be better, because it would not create a "traumatic shock" of the skin by replacing the surface acidity (and other biogrganic substances) which serve as a barrier. defense by another natural barrier (this laurel "butter") replacing the first, and which would be recognized by the human body - they say - as exactly similar to its own original barrier, and thus would not cause a "depletion" of the skin, which should not massively replenish its "protective barrier" with each wash, but would then do so slowly! But I still don't know if it wouldn't be more like "laurel essential oil?(Because butter could only be made from berries and I don't know if these have antiseptic properties or not?) It seems that it would even be the secret of the duration of longevity through the ages of this soap (more than 3'000 years that it has existed) reason why I am more interested in this one.

For the saponification, they use herbs such as samphire, salsola kali, (it seems to me in ashes, or so they add ash for a particular effect)?

Curiously, while Syria is a country with access to the sea, they do not use sea water! I think (but not entirely sure) that it is possibly because the salt attacks the skin?

But hey! It cooks 3 days in a copper container (please)!
And a year to dry !!!
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Savon_d%27alep

[culbuto]

Thank you for this interesting topic and welcome to this forum!

Can use the calculator, at aroma-zone there is no macerate of laurel berries to make homemade Aleppo soap! How do I do the proportions?

It seems that using berry / bay leaf macerate would be better, because it would not create a "traumatic shock" of the skin by replacing the surface acidity (and other biogrganic substances) which serve as a barrier. defense by another natural barrier (this laurel "butter") replacing the first, and which would be recognized by the human body - they say - as exactly similar to its own original barrier, and thus would not cause a "depletion" of the skin, which should not massively replenish its "protective barrier" with each wash, but would then do so slowly! But I still don't know if it wouldn't be more like "laurel essential oil?(Because butter could only be made from berries and I don't know if these have antiseptic properties or not?) It seems that it would even be the secret of the duration of longevity through the ages of this soap (more than 3'000 years that it has existed) reason why I am more interested in this one.

For the saponification, they use herbs such as samphire, salsola kali, (it seems to me in ashes, or so they add ash for a particular effect).

Curiously, while Syria is a country with access to the sea, they do not use sea water! I think (but not entirely sure) that it is possibly because the salt attacks the skin.

But hey! It cooks 3 days in a copper container (please)!
And a year to dry !!!
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Savon_d%27alep

here ! Aleppo soap is more of a "hot" soap. On the other hand, seawater contains more than 90 elements that are important for the skin. they make it for the spa. it leaves the skin very soft. it's easy to make yourself. But to keep these properties, I also freeze like milk. the must: a sea water white clay honey.
you can make your alep: now they sell bay bay oil in the aroma zone. or essential oil for those who prefer. You can also make your macerate: in this case, the amount of oil you put into it is taken into account. For example, macerate in hazelnut oil. And we put 500 cc. 500 cc of olive oil is added. we enter these data in the calculator: it will give you the amount of liquid to put as well as the amount of soda. knowing that it will be necessary to add 5% of oil as a precaution: on the one hand a 5% surgras is advised, on the other hand if the soda is slightly too dosed, it will be missed. that will give you a 50% alep

[Rabbit]

I do it a little differently.
Here is my reference calculator:
http://www.soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp

My recipe:
Ingredients
Tallow Beef 500 gr beef fat (Beef white)
Palm Kernel Oil 100 gr Palm fat for frying
Olive Oil 100 gr olive oil (aldi)
Almond Oil, sweet 100 gr sweet almond oil *
Castor Oil 80 gr castor oil *

water (rain or demineralized) 335 gr

caustic soda ** 120 gr

Before you start, prepare a bowl filled with white vinegar.

Take into account the precautions for use. Gloves, safety glasses, laboratory apron and gauze mask. This list is not exhaustive, it is up to you to assume the consequences of your awkwardness (It is sometimes that there is one who crams himself). Wait for children to sleep before starting
No children nearby and do this in peace.

A big precaution to take is to have a bowl of vinegar on your doorstep
before you start. If we suspect the possibility of a splash of soda or soap solution during saponification
rinse with vinegar and then with plenty of water.

Implementation.
Preferably outside. In a plastic jug containing water,
Add the soda that has previously been weighed. Touch gently with a whisk without exposing or breathing the vapors. It heats up, it's normal. Once diluted, let cool outside.
Weigh and pour into a small plastic bucket (3 kg nuttela jar).
All oils (except almond) and fats. Put in the microwave
in XNUMX minute slices in the microwave to melt the fat.
Put the seal outside so that it cools without freezing.

Prepare the mussels, I use plastic dishes (salad
tuna, chicken curry etc. )

When the soda solution is cold and the oil too. Pour the solution
soda in the oil, possibly add coloring to
macaroon.

Pass in the mixer, scraping the edges with a cat's tongue.
When the mixture takes the consistency of a custard add
almond oil and essential oils (5-10 drops of cinnamon and
5- 10 drops of basil).
Mix, until the trace and pour immediately into the molds.

Vibrate the molds to avoid holes (watch out for projections)

Store the soaps in the oven 12 to 24 hours then put them in the fridge
a few hours before unmolding. Engrave on soaps the date of
manufacturing with a sharp pencil.
Store the soaps for the cure in a cardboard box for 4
weeks min.
Rinse your hands with vinegar, the soap is still
corrosive.
After the cure, and before using it. Tongue touch
the soap. If it tingles it is that the soap is not ready or that there is
manufacturing error. The soap is still corrosive.
If it does nothing except a taste of soap it is good.

When making soap, do not clean the material
in the sink. But in a bucket containing dreft and vinegar diluted in
the water. Above all, do not throw the wash water down the sink. The
greases will freeze and it will quickly clog everything.

NB - when working with soda, if it scratches somewhere, you have to
rinse with vinegar and then with plenty of water.
-The soap produced is not a soap suitable for female privacy.
- It is possible to add a tablespoon of honey at the time of
the trace.
-The soap produced according to my method keeps its fragrance (oils
essentials) and floats in the bath (very practical to find it
when it falls in the juice)

* These oils are sold in drugstores under the brand evergreen
for a price of 12 to 15 € / L. There are some at Fontaine Beauvois (otherwise
order from your drugstore / DIY store if they sell evergreen products)
** When purchasing caustic soda, check that there are no
blocks in it, it will mean that it took moisture and is therefore no longer
good for intended use.
Have fun but be careful.

[Rabbit]

It is possible to make soap using only
tallow or lard. It makes a very soft and creamy soap
, especially lard, but which does not bubble.
D or the castor oil that I add.

[culbuto]

there are many recipes. for me it's special because I replace the water with milk or seawater for which I want to keep properties. At the beginning, it is simpler to simply castile. water, oil, soda. that's all. recommended for babies elsewhere.

with the fat that freezes, we can amuse the kids with a soap that floats. at least 50% freezing fat is required.
heat the frozen fat, add the liquid oil to it. let freeze, enough to be able to mount in snow! When it is assembled, gently add the sodium hydroxide solution. The rest is like other soaps. Air bubbles will float the soap. I made floating ducks, rabbits (if it floats too!) in short when we started to discover the world of soaps, we are fucked up ........

[culbuto]

It is possible to make soap using only
tallow or lard. It makes a very soft and creamy soap
, especially lard, but which does not bubble.
D or the castor oil that I add.

it is the EDTA of industrial soaps that makes the foam. and it's bad for your health. In my case, 100% milk soaps do not foam at the start, but the older they are, the more they foam ........ there is no connection with the flexible DSK ........

NB I forgot something: the fresh soap is excellent for the laundry: when I finish, I rub my material with a cloth that I have to wash and presto, machine. be careful not to touch it all the same.

[Obamot]

Ah but I read somewhere that you shouldn't put soap in the machine, because it made foam and went everywhere in the circuits after ?!

Another question:
Can we "remake" seawater from coarse gray salt? Or has he already lost too much magnesium (etc) or other properties after drying?

[bidouille23]

Slut tumble,

thank you .

Small question, how many months is roughly 3, 4 or more?


So my question: can we control the pH of the soap (by taking a small tip that we dissolve in demineralized water for example), to check that the saponification is beautiful and well finished and that the result corresponds good to the desired product?

I imagine so.

This in order to put in place its own "manufacturing schedule so as not to end up without soap at a time ...

It is a detail but which can be practical amha ...

[Obamot]

End
Obamo sorry to break your dream on marseille soap ...

http://www.sauvonslasavonnerie.com/sav/

no controlled designation therefore no obligation to use a particular product, everything is allowed ....

So animal fat instead of vegetable fat, mmmm, there's good over-fat soap if you know what I mean .....

No my dream is that of Aleppo, but until now I did not know HOW to do, there it will be better thanks to Culbuto!

But still difficult to "improve" a millennial recipe for a novice ...

And still no confirmation of the antiseptic and beneficial aspect of the bay leaf on the film of our epidermis (I will have to start again with the pickaxe to find that)