As I said informally to some, I planned to install a water injection, as is done on competition cars, but here on a diesel (1.9D PSA) by injecting less water to to have an economy - maybe. A bit on the principle CWI (Continuous Water Injection).
I will not dwell on the question "why not rather a Gillier-Pantone system?".
In short, it's done. Here is the kit. Outside assembly, it gives that except that mine has a much lower flow.
Here it is once mounted:
- The injector in the middle with the control valve on the outside. The injector goes in the direction of the air flow, the whole is connected to the pump by a pipe connected to the end (green):
- The air inlet seen from behind, on the left the injector / control valve assembly. On the right, the depression sensor:
Note that I changed the nozzle (injector) to have 0.75GPH (Gallon per hour) instead of the initial 2.5GPH. The volume injected (if it were lit continuously) would be ~ 3L / h. The spray should be finer too. That's a lot but it's the lowest bit rate I've found.
The injector comes just before the EGR that I reconnected to heat the mist and avoid a thermal shock by cold water as André suggested.
I have adjusted the system so that the pump will switch on from 3000 rpm. In other words, in city driving, difficult to engage except by accelerating like a mule. On the highway, easier, especially when overtaking. So at 110Km, no injection but the consumption is still naturally low. At 120Km / h, where the consumption would start to increase, the injection starts, at a pressure & temperature which are more favorable to receive the fleet (finally at a temperature which avoids the condensation of water on the walls of the I haven't seen mayonnaise in the engine oil yet (I did ~ 150Km), but I have a feeling of granulated oil on the cap so I continue to monitor. I don't know if it was like that before.
On a journey of 45 min, I had in the end ~ 1L of drinking water. But it would have been more rolling faster (I oscillated between 110 and 120 Km / h). I measured at the pifometer ... so to check.
At the driving level, nothing more, otherwise an acceleration can be a little easier at 120Km / h. But nothing transcendent. At first, the air supply was flushed with all the dirt accumulated at the EGR, so I had a small drop in acceleration but it did not last.
I have not measured my fuel consumption yet. but it should happen soon.
Feel free to give your impressions / comments. In particular, what do you think about motor risk? I'm not a mechanic at heart and I have no desire to shoot my engine (he has only 160.000Km). And as this kind of editing does not run the streets, (constructive) criticism is welcome.
Injection of water (pump and injectors)
Injection of water (pump and injectors)
Last edited by abyssin3 the 19 / 08 / 08, 10: 54, 2 edited once.
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Hello
Your water before injecting passes it in an exchanger with LDR is water has 70c and more, you will see an ameloiration
and also work to inject from 90kmh but less quantity
Before making a heat exchanger fill your tank with hot water, if the tank is under the hood it stays warm for some time.
One way to spray easily is with the exhaust that gives a nice mist, but on a diesel is about to plug the nozzle ..
In reality it is an ERG that sprays water vapor
Nothing prevents you to pass the exhaust gas into a bulor and then send it through the valve ERG, but provides a cleaning of the bubbler occasionally.
Andre
Your water before injecting passes it in an exchanger with LDR is water has 70c and more, you will see an ameloiration
and also work to inject from 90kmh but less quantity
Before making a heat exchanger fill your tank with hot water, if the tank is under the hood it stays warm for some time.
One way to spray easily is with the exhaust that gives a nice mist, but on a diesel is about to plug the nozzle ..
In reality it is an ERG that sprays water vapor
Nothing prevents you to pass the exhaust gas into a bulor and then send it through the valve ERG, but provides a cleaning of the bubbler occasionally.
Andre
0 x
For the LDR exchanger, I thought about it. Only ideally I would have to put it between the pump and the injector, and I'm not sure that the exchanger supports a pressure of 100 bars (= pressure delivered by the pump). On the other hand, if I put it before the pump, I do not know if it will support a temperature of 70 ° c.
It's pretty tricky. As the system is done, the water pipe is very thin, it passes not far from the EGR. By the heat under the hood, it must heat, but certainly not to 70 ° c.
What I was thinking of doing is using a ...homemade EGR heater. This would involve replacing the water tubing between the pump and the injector with the finest possible copper pipe (but resistant to pressure) and glued to the EGR pipe for efficient heat exchange. This hose is burning once the engine is hot. It's simple and it could heat up efficiently. I just have to find the right adapters (6-8mm). And it may be necessary that I remove the control valve (check vavle), or that I place before.
It may be possible to send water vapor from time to time if the water heats too long.
I have heard that there is a way to minimize the flow of the pump. It might allow to inject a little less, I will dig in this direction.
It's pretty tricky. As the system is done, the water pipe is very thin, it passes not far from the EGR. By the heat under the hood, it must heat, but certainly not to 70 ° c.
What I was thinking of doing is using a ...homemade EGR heater. This would involve replacing the water tubing between the pump and the injector with the finest possible copper pipe (but resistant to pressure) and glued to the EGR pipe for efficient heat exchange. This hose is burning once the engine is hot. It's simple and it could heat up efficiently. I just have to find the right adapters (6-8mm). And it may be necessary that I remove the control valve (check vavle), or that I place before.
It may be possible to send water vapor from time to time if the water heats too long.
I have heard that there is a way to minimize the flow of the pump. It might allow to inject a little less, I will dig in this direction.
0 x
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Congratulations for this initiative!
I can not wait to see the results!
Two remarks
a) I do not think that you risk anything with 3L / h (to compare with the volume of air sucked by your engine and you will have an average hygrometry).
2) As I understand it's ON / OFF from 3000 rpm.
It seems high for a 1.9D right? I mean, do not you have to be so often?
If not, how many km a day?
I can not wait to see the results!
Two remarks
a) I do not think that you risk anything with 3L / h (to compare with the volume of air sucked by your engine and you will have an average hygrometry).
2) As I understand it's ON / OFF from 3000 rpm.
It seems high for a 1.9D right? I mean, do not you have to be so often?
If not, how many km a day?
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We have just estimated with Abyssinian% HR in relation to his diet and hourly consumption of water.
There is about 8g / kg of air, ie a% RH of 50% at 20 ° C pile hair. In other words: if you have no results, you could increase the "dose".
In your place I would also lower a little the triggering regime so that you inject during most acceleration (high T ° room).
There is about 8g / kg of air, ie a% RH of 50% at 20 ° C pile hair. In other words: if you have no results, you could increase the "dose".
In your place I would also lower a little the triggering regime so that you inject during most acceleration (high T ° room).
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Hello Abyssin3
On your doc they talk about 150 PSI which is according to my unit converter 10.34 Bar! If it's the right value, you can find or make a heat exchanger that can withstand 10 bars. In addition, the "Legris" type connector placed on your nozzle holder gives me the same kind of information, it will surprise me that it supports 100 bars ... it's more like 15 bars max. Finally ... conclusion from a photo ....
A+
abyssin3 wrote:For the LDR exchanger, I thought about it. Only ideally I would have to put it between the pump and the injector, and I'm not sure that the exchanger supports a pressure of 100 bars (= pressure delivered by the pump). On the other hand, if I put it before the pump, I do not know if it will support a temperature of 70 ° c.
On your doc they talk about 150 PSI which is according to my unit converter 10.34 Bar! If it's the right value, you can find or make a heat exchanger that can withstand 10 bars. In addition, the "Legris" type connector placed on your nozzle holder gives me the same kind of information, it will surprise me that it supports 100 bars ... it's more like 15 bars max. Finally ... conclusion from a photo ....
A+
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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Christophe wrote:There is about 8g / kg of air, ie a% RH of 50% at 20 ° C pile hair. In other words: if you have no results, you could increase the "dose".
I was wrong ... the graph is in g / m3 and not / kg of air.
We are therefore at 10g / m3, which is closer to 60% RH at 20 ° C.
For the heat exchanger, a small plate heat exchanger should hold the 15 bars I think. Bigre she pump hard this pump actually
It's sold by some HVB kit salesmen but you have to know
I have a fogger kit, it would interest me to find a pump of this style. Where do you think we can find them?
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