Pantone engine on tractor Deutz 6 913 atmo

[Colmant]

Good evening everyone.

As we say here in Provence; The Good Lord rascal took me and I finally got into it.
I thought I would start with my standard tractor IH 1455 145 hp turbo,

but
After having made several attempts to create pseudo plans that were not followed up due to lack of time, I had the trigger following the latest posts from someca and in particular André's last sketch, preceded by that of Zac I believe, relayed by Frisebyne ... in short

This is to equip my carrier with a six cylinder Deutz 6-913 atmospheric air-cooled, 130hp

jvous espliq: I make a vertical system

For the bubbler:
I started from an air tank of truck brakes I have several that a bastard threw at my house, they no longer passed the control apparently they are full of trace of oil, its compressor had to leak.
It is cylindrical cylinders of 30 liters in thick scrap and painted inside, once cleaned (or cleaned once for the Belgians) it is nikel; diam 270 mm length 555 mm approx.

it's on it will be a little heavy but I could put at least 15 l of water

I pierced the two extremities in the center with a bell diam 51
then I cut a hat along a weld bead

Inside I pass a 50mm long 650mm tube (exhaust)
For the reactor, I have a 15/21 galva tube bent at the end, I cut it so that the size goes from 50 to 46-48 approx.
I pierced the outlet diam 22 and rectified with a file the oblong passage to bring out the elbow (section) it exceeds two cm approx, that's enough.
I do not think to weld it: the adjustment is good and even if some exhaust gas passes it does not matter and it remains removable.
the other end of this 15/21 is cut to the appropriate length to be able to thread and put a long, long radius tee which comes out upstream of the bubbler, I cut the bell diam 29 on a half section so that the tee y come to lean, cer making the assembly, a little hammer blow on the end of the tee, and the elbow is positioned all alone in its location, the reactor is centered.

My stem comes from a bolt that held the rear axle in place with an express diam 14 long total 190, smooth length if head 145, and 45 threaded.
I welded 3 centering peaks on the thread and grinded the hexagon head at 120 ° (by eye) overflowing a little on the rod: 3 other peaks staggered. The rod fits well in 15/21.
The end of the tee which remains in the exhaust and plugged and I weld a small rod which connects the plug to the reactor rod.
I connect to the motor output by a 50/56 tube also pierced with a complementary half section which comes to seal on the tee that comes out.

I'm there after 5 hours of workshop and note and diagrams

I think to put back the top of the bottle and hold it by a piece of inner tube so that it remains removable. At least for the moment.

there remain on the cylinder 3 threaded holes in 15/21: 2 at the bottom 1 at the top, which I will use to put the water, connect the air intake for bubbles and drain.

I had already prepared an "air gap" by modifying an oil burner nozzle which I use upside down to let the air out through the filter. all mounted on 12/17 tube ... I need a good depression it is not big maybe that will be enough.

It will remain to be connected by a hose to the intake hose which already has a nozzle (to supply the air compressor of the brakes that I disassembled).

see you later ..

[Other]

Hello

For the reactor, I have a 15/21 galvanized tube bent at the end, I cut it so that the size goes from 50 to 46-48 approx.

.
For the galvanized tube not very good for the internal part of the reactor (external not serious that goes leather)

find yourself a simple black iron pipe if you can't find a reamer inside to remove the zinc motons, difficult operation if you lack the tools, already that galvanized does not weld badly it sparkles in green flames when you weld it becomes porous

For the reactor tube I prefer a very smooth tube inside and enough and round when you measure it there are fairly wide tolerances in the commercial tubes.

For the bubbler tube, you don't have too much head to make super small bubbles, the difference is not great between lots of small holes, or saw cuts, I even use a tube directly in the water as ..
the diameter of the tube must be big enough 22 mm and more at least the immersed part to make (snoring the bubbler), it will always be time to ask a reduction in air intake if necessary after, but.
Your reactor I would weld it tight in the bubbler, the part above the water in the bubbler must be tight it is in this depression that it becomes a mist of water droplets
a good bubbler when he walks well it turns white inside like a cloud. (the kind of condesation that we see on the tips of the wings of fast planes)

do not forget that all the welded and internal parts of the reactor must be cleaned well the engine can swallow metal parts. The piston passes close to the cylinder head. You can scrape an engine for more security. Ask yourself a well fixed solid screen in the reactor outlet or on the intake side.
Do not try to have too much water, if you make little use of the engine, it is better to leave with less water, it heats up faster, even if it means having a system to add more


Andre

[Colmant]

Hello

For the reactor, I have a 15/21 galvanized tube bent at the end, I cut it so that the size goes from 50 to 46-48 approx.

.
For the galvanized tube not very good for the internal part of the reactor (external not serious that goes leather)

> the zinc in galva poses a chemical reaction pb? or simply internal roughness

For the reactor tube I prefer a very smooth tube inside and enough and round when you measure it there are fairly wide tolerances in the commercial tubes.

> it's true there is even a longitudinal rib (weld) but the gap is 14-15 = 1 so 0.5 too small ??

For the bubbler tube, you don't have too much head to make super small bubbles, the difference is not great between lots of small holes, or saw cuts, I even use a tube directly in the water as ..
the diameter of the tube must be big enough 22 mm and more at least the immersed part to make (snoring the bubbler), it will always be time to ask a reduction in air intake if necessary after, but.

> I can make two 15/21 air inlets on the existing threads

Your reactor I would weld it tight in the bubbler

> have you tried to "stick" to the epoxy paste like Sintofer ES that it takes to the heat of the pot?

ask yourself a well fixed solid screen in the reactor outlet or intake side.

> I am going to clean well, a stainless steel grill vented from an oil tank but the mesh is a large egg not effective can be a piece of scouring pad / iron wool in front ...

Do not try to have too much water, if you make little use of the engine, it is better to leave with less water, it heats up faster, even if it means having a system to add more

Well when I use it it can be 10 hours straight but in general 6 it is common it heats a lot air cooled and the pot is on the outlet side of the cooling air flow
Andre

[Colmant]

some editorial staff - presentation of quotes I think everyone will understand

[Other]

Hello

> it's true there is even a longitudinal rib (weld) but the gap is 14-15 = 1 so 0.5 too small ??

Too small for a diesel of this size
normally the original drawing c, was rod 1/2 inch or 12,7mm
1/2 pipe pipe is 21/15 mm the external measurement in the standard of pipe pipes is always the same diameter, the interior changes according to the thickness of material I worked for 15 years in a factory which manufactured pipes .

if you see the internal weld visually find another pipe,
If you want a permanent assembly and that the tractor remains stopped for a long time, you will find a stainless steel pipe inside and much smoother and its more careful manufacture, there is no risk of rusting during long stops.
For the rod it is an air gap between 1 mm to 1,5 mm
If you can't find it, look among the rods of old car shock absorbers, often the diameters are close, first look for a good reactor pipe then adapt the rod which is easier to find, organize what is easily interchangeable (plug at the end )

For the wire mesh no metallic sponge in this place you risk that it breaks in filament is entered in the engine.
A good solid mesh well fixed, your protection must not become the problem.

For the galvanized I think that Pitmix used galvanized for lack of something else. But why take risks with an assembly which will not give its performance, already that when one makes an assembly is that one wants to improve it wonders about many details

Andre

[Colmant]

André thank you for your advice, worth one who knows that ten who seek

for the dimensions, here we do not know the "pipe or 1/2 pipe"
in plumbing the ratings are:
1 "= 1 inch -> 26/34 mm tube (interior / exterior)
3/4 "-> 26/34
1/2 "-> 15/21
3/8 "-> 12/17

you say
1/2 inch shank or 12,7mm
1/2 pipe conduit or 21/15 mm

Actually the tractor can remain without working for 3-4 months, so I need to find stainless steel tube in 15/21 and be able to bend it or weld an elbow
for the rods I think I have to find the shock absorbers I have in stock.

[Colmant]

3/4 "rectif -> 20 / 27mm

[Colmant]

the solid stems at home are in inches, here in metric,

the tubes in your home are called pipes and are measured in inches

I understood well?

[Other]

Hello

The dimensions (pipe) are universal, all countries have adopted this system, and this for more than a century we say inch, but this does not correspond to real measurements.
As I said the external measures of the pipes are standard but internal it varies from one manufacturer to another, the thickness of the steel strips which were used to make the pipe are not regular,
the beginning and the end of the coil is thinner, normally the factories have to cut a 10 meter in front of the coil, but now that these pipes are made in eastern countries they are more economical and the quality has changed
it is made of thin pipe and thick pipe for high pressure, so the inside diameter measure it and adapt the rod
In stainless steel the quality is superior .. (Japan)
Normally you take the kind of conduit that you collect and you organize yourself to have a rod with a clearance of 1 mm all around more or less (0,9 to 1,5mm it will work on a diesel)
In general you adapt your construction with the space around the engine and with the materials at hand, we are DIY enthusiasts not scientists with a budget that allows them to machine nickel tubes! and if it doesn't work (in the cemetery of hours).
In our assemblies, it is necessary to make a definitive tube reactor to have the possibility of changing rod or to modify it, to have the possibility of modifying easily the air intake of the bubbler. The rest will not change with the correct use of settings ..

Andre