Renault Super 5 doped water

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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PITMIX
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Renault Super 5 doped water




by PITMIX » 04/11/05, 18:50

Hello everybody
B) This is my new victim. A poor little super 5, 1.4 L auto box that consumes 35 l for about 350 km.

Some photos will follow to show you that I am only at the beginning and also they will allow me to ask you some questions.
For example:
- I intend to put a rod of 150 reactor 200 mm length diam. 12mm
- The tube reactor will be 250 300 mm length diam. 14 mm (1 / 2 inch)
- There will be 100 mm between the water injection venturi and the reactor rod so that the residual droplets evaporate before coming into contact with the rod.
- This preheating chamber will be 100 mm of which 50 mm will be integrated in the exhaust
- The venturi is 5mm in diameter. inside it is a dudgeon made on a copper tube, the water is spat out by a tip of a ballpoint pen à la "André"
Last edited by PITMIX the 22 / 04 / 06, 11: 46, 1 edited once.
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Christophe
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by Christophe » 04/11/05, 19:57

Here are the pictures:

Image

Image

Image

Image
Last edited by Christophe the 30 / 01 / 06, 16: 10, 2 edited once.
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Other
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by Other » 04/11/05, 20:57

Hello Pitmix
You're well gone, your reactor is well positioned, for the stem it is not necessary to make an aerodynamic shape for the entrance, even a square cut works slightly better, for the output of rod is correct in tip.
For your small carburetor, install a small needle that is found in the smallest trade posible, puts it in series with the water line near the carburetor if possible operated by a zipper from the cab.
Regarding the pouring of water, as you put the carburetor head down it does not pose a problem at shutdown when the engine does not turn if it is not waterproof l, the water will flow on the ground that's all, we're not in the desert, there's water there in droves.
The thermocouple, where the temperature probe puts it on the copper pipe leaving the reactor, is the only indication that you really need to operate the reactor. the other measures is more to analyze what happens in the reactor.
At the beginning the valve you can adjust manually it controls its flow of water so as to maintain the exit of the reactor above 100c and below 200c. you will see at what temperature it works best.
Andre
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by PITMIX » 04/11/05, 21:28

Goodnight Andrew
I thought about everything you said to me and I checked your posts for inspiration. One thing, I use steel for the reactor tube. Do you think there is a risk of rust?
For the rod reactor I sharpened it on both sides, but there it is 220 mm so I'm going to resize right to 150 mm or 200 mm I understand that it did not matter if we stay in these proportions. I have not welded anything yet, I saw that your output reactor almost does not pass the exhaust and then you use copper for connection to the admissions. Are these choices voluntary for a reason of better heat conduction. What I mean is that I do not know if it's better to make a longer steel tube, almost to the intake, or, to make a copper fitting as close to the exhaust as possible. . This taking into account the fact that the more connection there is loss of charge. According to one of my chief pipefitters at work "a weld is like a heat-stopping barrier" This may be a bit exaggerated but not entirely wrong. What do you think ?
: blink: I have burnt neurons!
PS on the photo of the water venturi, the venturi is on the left it is welded on a copper bend that I will remove; on the right it is a shrader valve but it will not be used either.
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by gegyx » 04/11/05, 22:14

Are you cheating on me?
But it seems to me that the extra thicknesses on the ends of the stem are made of solder (considering the golden color)?
If your welds have dropped on the chopper, you may need to do them with the bow, or with screws set.

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by Other » 05/11/05, 01:12

Hello
for the stem do not break too much the head, just a shot of grindstones to remove the tip and c, is it good, the centering nipples are soldering to the solder uo the silver soldering of refrigeration? the solder is fine. the heat is not excessive 450c maximum on the stem more often 300c it is necessary that the welding is made robust. not that a small pieces is detached and goes to grafigner the cylinder of the engine, before going through the exhaust it can walk a shake it inside.
for the output of the reactor I used differrent materials iron, stainless steel eck ..
I did not notice any significant difference, I take copper because of the ease of folding and find the connections, install it to the shortest.
As for the restriction it is relative to compare ocassione between the rod and the reactor, the tube reactor has less tendency to rust than the stem, a stainless steel rod is preferable, if you do not find the correct diameter takes a piece of stainless steel tube pushes an iron rod in turn and played you a magnetic rod and stainless steel 2 in one. although I did not notice a big difference between steel and stainless steel.
If you use the reactor often it does not rust, it is only when you leave the vehicle has abundant.
If you put the vertical rod soda 3,2mm bag in front of the rod to hold it in the reactor, because in use it takes games (vibration)
and it walks in the reactor.
To test your small carburetor blow air in the venturi and see if it sprays well, if not, too big drop, it does not matter place a sponge a fairly good diameter in a waxing box between the carburetor and the reactor is saturated with drops and vaporized as the air passes through.
do a test with a sweeper (vacuum cleaner) in a transparent plastic tube you will see the effectiveness of the sponge.
Andre
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binbins4
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by binbins4 » 05/11/05, 07:36

This is my new victim. A poor little super 5, 1.4 L auto box that consumes 35 l for about 350 km.


pitmix, think you should adjust your engine before any changes 10 lt / 100 ... currently I test my golf, I ride with 0,5 lt, I have a small auxiliary tank I drive to the stop, I do the same course (look at your lead, 2 degree can vary from 20%)
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by PITMIX » 05/11/05, 09:53

Hi4
I think you're right, I've already talked about it. The smells of gasoline are surely unburned.
Thanks for the advice.
I quickly read the post on the BX 1,4L and I ask myself the question of the connection of the output of the reactor to the admission. Apparently everyone does not agree on its location.
Last edited by PITMIX the 20 / 09 / 06, 09: 47, 3 edited once.
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by Former Oceano » 05/11/05, 21:06

If it only injects gasoline when you quickly press on the accelerator (looks while maneuvering gently and then more brutally the throttle release on the side of the carburetor is that this tube comes from the pump of recovery which injects gasoline during a throttle.
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 06/11/05, 05:31

Okay so this is the recovery system. What I wanted to say is that I think put the arrival of geet gas in these areas but nothing is sure. What is the best compromise for you?

For the regulation of the flow of water I saw that there existed in robotics artificial muscles, double jacks or simple action. I bought the linkage to manually operate the valve from the cockpit for now. It will be simpler
Actually the points of centering was the money but in the photo I put the rod of my reactor mini chopper. I had just polished and ground to both sides for the photo. I planned to put a tee at the reactor outlet with a plug, on the latter will be welded a rod diam 4 or less to hold the rod reactor and can easily dismount.
I'm trying to make a diagram.
Last edited by PITMIX the 22 / 04 / 06, 11: 56, 1 edited once.
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