forums energies: society, ecology and clean technologies

Hi everybody!

I currently roll 50% recycled cooking oil, 5 micron gravity filtration, and that on my 306 1.9L D and my Transit 2.5 D.

Except dosing accident (humhum ) I never dared to exceed the 50 / 50 mix ...

I would like to spend my Transit at 100% cooking oil.

This poses problems whether it is used oil?


Also, do you have "clear" documents or links to go to 100%

Thank you in advance!

Frying oil has a better cetane number than "new" oil.
The worry is the low T ° freezing and viscosity ... and you will foul your engine faster!

A good solution would be, I think, to combine with water doping (which cleans the engine). To my knowledge not yet done on auto ... (some doped agricultural tractors turn to oil I think).

In 2006, Oliomobile had released a recap, still valid I think, here it is: https://www.econologie.com/combien-d-hui ... -2765.html

ok ok ok. the freezing I knew, I reduce the winter mix to 15 / 20%.
In terms of engine fouling, is there only this solution to water? the injector cleaner that is found in supermarkets contributed a little to clean this ...?

Also I saw that to roll 100% of vegetable oil, there are two types of adaptation:

"- indirect injections fitted with Bosh or Japanese: supercharge the injectors to 185 bars, and in winter pre-wash pump and electric heater.
- direct injections: system of 2 tanks controlled by solenoid valves: this is the twin-tank kit. "

My transit of 1995 2.5L D ...? it's direct or indirect?

It's always a risk (100%)
I had a full carburetor, but one day, I did not purge enough my circuit (before stopping the engine), and the pump (bosch) had a little trouble with the cold.
As a result, the timing belt also struggled, and the bolt used to hold the belt tensioner broke.
In short, all the engine has pee.
So, 100% yes, but it takes rigor

Ok, the car was 25 years old, and 230.000 km, but it was still running well.

GAZAFON wrote:In terms of engine fouling, is there only this solution to water? the injector cleaner that is found in supermarkets contributed a little to clean this ...?

The problem of fouling is not so much in the injector but in the cylinder head, valves, piston crown and especially the segments ... which will lose their effectiveness. There is also the dilution of your oil with that of the engine ... not good either. ( to monitor)

Beware too, if you make short trips in the city, where the engine does not have time to heat, the phenomenon worsens at 100% oil.
Ideally, the engine should be warm and charging for as long as possible to avoid fouling problems.

My transit of 1995 2.5L D ...? it's direct or indirect?

AMHA indirect injection is when the injector spits into the duct a little before the intake valve. It is a gasoline engine technology.

Indirect injection on Olio: I guess they talk about injection into the pre-combustion chamber. (Technology a little outdated for passenger vehicles).

Direct injection, the latest technology / performance with pressures in thousand bar, the injector spits in the cylinder head. Look at the technical magazine you will have the answer.

The best is to ask the question about Oliomobole for transformations of your vehicle 100% oil, it is there where there is the most competence on the subject to make the appropriate assembly.

Christophe wrote:A good solution would be, I think, to combine with water doping (which cleans the engine). To my knowledge not yet done on auto ... (some doped agricultural tractors turn to oil I think).

There is at least Andre's car rolling with potato oil + Gillier Pantone.

This seems to be an excellent solution ..... after tuning the two systems ....

Hello

00% oil not recomanded, sonny rolls with a VW Jetta indirect injection a simple reheat of serpentine oil, walks at 80% in summer and al, autumn goes down to 60% then 40% and when the nights cool off too finished the march has the oil, there is only the beginning may sl, oil epass epas biendans the duct tank arrier ee the filter ad ela diffculté to pass the cold oil
the ideal it is bi carburation with a purge valve, you start gasif once the engine warm you transfer al, oil 100% two or three km before your arrival you purge diesel, if you do the city and very small route you stay at the diesel.
You need an oil heater at the LDR
On the engine I put my oil in a 10micron hydraulic filter then it goes in the original filter of the auto a 5 micron when the autumn arrives with géléela night I dilute a little my oil for which it flows sufficiently in the conduit tank forward arrier otherwise it would be necessary to replace the conduit by 18mm.
No major problem if it is to find a restaurant that has good oil which facilitates filtering (a good restaurant produces a barrel of 220 liters 15 days if you are well equipped pump and filter not too complicated but it It is necessary to go to the trouble, it is like heating with the wood. It is necessary to go to the cut of the cord and to return it in the furnace to remove the ashes.
the recipe you need to store a 800 liters ahead let it stand easier to filter, while you roll with the oil of the other year.
the doping with water must be counted on 1,8 has 2 liters of water in the 100km quan dtu walking oil.
plus 400 000 km on the car
Andre

Hi Andrew, thank you for your answer.

Of course I will do bi-carburization with warming at the LDF.

Regarding the filtering of the oil I think at the beginning to not worry too much I will continue to filter my oil 5microns before putting it in the tank. it's scary anyway .... but it's worth it!

Did you buy a kit ready or did you do it yourself?

If you have pictures of your installation, and at best that of the "joystick" which allows you to switch between oil / GO ... Thank you

Thank you for the information! The fryer without oil? Today is quite possible with the modern Actifry fryers, it is a technology that uses hot air moving to fry food. Your dishes are free of any fat!

Thanks for the spam ... I'll take you to the pan!