Hi Hi!
I was wondering if in terms of battery life if it was better that I put 2 of 24v or one of 48v at the output of my charge regulator?
Thank you in advance!
wind Batteries: 24 or 48V?
wind Batteries: 24 or 48V?
0 x
"Nothing is lost nothing is created all is transformed" (if we had taken this quote into account earlier, we would not be here today!)
Re: wind batteries
kary85 wrote:Hi Hi!
I was wondering if in terms of battery life if it was better that I put 2 of 24v or one of 48v at the output of my charge regulator?
Thank you in advance!
You have the choice, 8x6 volts, 4x12 volts or 2x24 volts!
Choose the price that will be best for you, using several batteries allows you to replace a defective battery without having to replace the whole.
You will have to pay the price of the additional cables if you opt for several batteries but you be the judge of the cost of this option!
0 x
Stepping behind sometimes can strengthen friendship.
Criticism is good if added to some compliments.
Alain
Criticism is good if added to some compliments.
Alain
for a long time I am 100% autonomous in elec in photovoltaics (isolated site)
I am in 24v converted after 220V pure sine
I have 6 battery 180 ah 12V: 3 group(mounted in parallel) 2 batteries (serial assembly)
advantages: easy to find inverters at correct price ditto for regulator because most are 12 / 24V and the cables are not that huge either.
If you have a backup by generator group a lot of old diesel group we have 12 / 24V outputs so useful to directly recharge your batteries while you use the tools that needs the group for example
inconvenient: hard to find 24V bulb or other device
If you have a very large installation, it may be better to switch to 48V for cables, but that will not change anything for the life of the batteries.
If you have a medium to large installation and you want to operate everything at 220V then choose 24V
If you have a small installation like mine I will even advise you to switch to 12V (this is what I will do if it is to be done again at home) and to make the max work without a direct converter because there are lots of compact fluorescent bulb in 12V stereo or radio in 12V (the one where you can put the battery in) 12V adapter for the computer etc ..... this avoids leaving your converter permanently on, which even consumes when empty even standby mode and has a lot of loss and more and expensive if you want a good and powerful.
More for the fridge you find very economical compression fridge in the camping car gear
If you and in 12V you have a bit more loss in the cables if you do not use the bigger one but you will gain that by avoiding the loss of the converter
after you to see according to your use
I am in 24v converted after 220V pure sine
I have 6 battery 180 ah 12V: 3 group(mounted in parallel) 2 batteries (serial assembly)
advantages: easy to find inverters at correct price ditto for regulator because most are 12 / 24V and the cables are not that huge either.
If you have a backup by generator group a lot of old diesel group we have 12 / 24V outputs so useful to directly recharge your batteries while you use the tools that needs the group for example
inconvenient: hard to find 24V bulb or other device
If you have a very large installation, it may be better to switch to 48V for cables, but that will not change anything for the life of the batteries.
If you have a medium to large installation and you want to operate everything at 220V then choose 24V
If you have a small installation like mine I will even advise you to switch to 12V (this is what I will do if it is to be done again at home) and to make the max work without a direct converter because there are lots of compact fluorescent bulb in 12V stereo or radio in 12V (the one where you can put the battery in) 12V adapter for the computer etc ..... this avoids leaving your converter permanently on, which even consumes when empty even standby mode and has a lot of loss and more and expensive if you want a good and powerful.
More for the fridge you find very economical compression fridge in the camping car gear
If you and in 12V you have a bit more loss in the cables if you do not use the bigger one but you will gain that by avoiding the loss of the converter
after you to see according to your use
0 x
-
- I learn econologic
- posts: 21
- Registration: 01/04/10, 21:09
- Location: Avignon
wind Batteries: 24 or 48V?
Hello
these a choice to make knowing that in 48 v less loss dou more autonomy, it depand how and recharged the batteries ???
knowing that we find in 24 V, Regulator, compact fluorescent lamps 20 WE 27, halogen lamps, Compressor fridges; fluorescent strip; 24 V 220 V converter, ect
For the 48 V regulator, for halogen lamps 2 in series, ditto for the compact fluorescent lamps that I managed to find, fluorescent strip, converter 48 V 220 V, and soon compact fluorescent 20 W halogen, and fridge, ect
I remain at your disposal for more information
michel avignon
these a choice to make knowing that in 48 v less loss dou more autonomy, it depand how and recharged the batteries ???
knowing that we find in 24 V, Regulator, compact fluorescent lamps 20 WE 27, halogen lamps, Compressor fridges; fluorescent strip; 24 V 220 V converter, ect
For the 48 V regulator, for halogen lamps 2 in series, ditto for the compact fluorescent lamps that I managed to find, fluorescent strip, converter 48 V 220 V, and soon compact fluorescent 20 W halogen, and fridge, ect
I remain at your disposal for more information
michel avignon
0 x
michel avignon handyman
-
- I learn econologic
- posts: 21
- Registration: 01/04/10, 21:09
- Location: Avignon
wind Batteries: 24 or 48V?
Re
suite
after a new search on the weeb (for 3 months), I found halogen lamp 48 V 45 W and 60 W, x relay and contactor, PLC; clear lamps E 27 or B 22 15 W to 100 w
Michel Avignon
suite
after a new search on the weeb (for 3 months), I found halogen lamp 48 V 45 W and 60 W, x relay and contactor, PLC; clear lamps E 27 or B 22 15 W to 100 w
Michel Avignon
0 x
michel avignon handyman
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