Hello,
This is my situation, I am the owner of a mansion, with 220m² of living space. The current heating is a Viessmann oil boiler of around 5 years (Vitorond222, low temperature)
I would like to change the heating system due to the cost of fuel oil ....
The whole house is fitted with a cast iron radiator (3 layers and between 13 and 14 elements, each around 1m high)
I read well on all your discussions, that your first recommendations are insulation .... and insulation ....
But in this precise situation, I could only isolate at the level of the windows (last generation double glazing), entry doors, roof spaces. And yes, this kind of house is not treated as determinedly as more recent houses: molding on 3,5m ceilings, wall paneling, aesthetic facades. It is nevertheless very important to try to respect the soul of these old stones ... I cannot therefore insulate the interior walls. or ext. (a good meter thick), without distorting the style for the exterior. and without a prohibitive cost (undo and redo the stucco, dzefaire and redo woodwork ...).
So based on these data and having carefully read your debates on the air / water heat pump, and wood boilers in the supply is very random (it seems) and the cost of the raw material in great increase (seems t ' he)...
What do you recommend?
Thank you in advance and hope for a constructive exchange on a type of house which is not ideal for a good number of participants in this forum, but hey, I'm also passionate about the soul of these stones ...
What kind of heating for old home?
Hi yan
You raise a problem that involves compromises and technical solutions, as modern as they are, cannot fully solve. Rest assured, you are not the only one living in an old house, and even if you sold it, it would transfer the problem to someone else, perhaps less aware of the environment and the savings of energy.
You mentioned the insulation and the heating mode.
For the first part, you need to analyze your current energy consumption, your living space etc ... to get an idea of the losses in your home.
For the heating part, it should be borne in mind that the different solutions all have advantages and disadvantages and that the ideal solution, in your case, ecologically and financially, does not yet exist.
A little advice by the way, take a test of your central heating installation. Lower the temperature of the water circulating in the radiators as much as possible to check if your installation is compatible with low temperature.
A+
You raise a problem that involves compromises and technical solutions, as modern as they are, cannot fully solve. Rest assured, you are not the only one living in an old house, and even if you sold it, it would transfer the problem to someone else, perhaps less aware of the environment and the savings of energy.
You mentioned the insulation and the heating mode.
For the first part, you need to analyze your current energy consumption, your living space etc ... to get an idea of the losses in your home.
For the heating part, it should be borne in mind that the different solutions all have advantages and disadvantages and that the ideal solution, in your case, ecologically and financially, does not yet exist.
A little advice by the way, take a test of your central heating installation. Lower the temperature of the water circulating in the radiators as much as possible to check if your installation is compatible with low temperature.
A+
0 x
- Gregconstruct
- Econologue expert
- posts: 1781
- Registration: 07/11/07, 19:55
- Location: Amay Belgium
Do not confuse inertia with power.
The old cast iron radiators that fitted the homes were certainly sized to provide power with a high circulation temperature (> 60 °) but above all they have a good heat exchange surface.
The objective may very well be to insulate the dwelling sufficiently so that the existing installation becomes compatible with a lower circulation temperature. We can also add radiators in a second step.
Regulation also plays an important role and there are several aspects of an installation and habits that allow savings to be made before talking about changing the heating mode.
A+
The old cast iron radiators that fitted the homes were certainly sized to provide power with a high circulation temperature (> 60 °) but above all they have a good heat exchange surface.
The objective may very well be to insulate the dwelling sufficiently so that the existing installation becomes compatible with a lower circulation temperature. We can also add radiators in a second step.
Regulation also plays an important role and there are several aspects of an installation and habits that allow savings to be made before talking about changing the heating mode.
A+
0 x
- Gregconstruct
- Econologue expert
- posts: 1781
- Registration: 07/11/07, 19:55
- Location: Amay Belgium
There must be the possibility of insulating the roof, hunting thermal bridges with the exterior walls and particularly at ground level.
Otherwise for the heating solution:
Heat pump (Nuclear) and / or Solar = Low temperature + investment
Wood boiler = Constraints and Volume to Store + Cost
Fuel oil boiler = by far the most practical but not environmentally friendly at all
There remains one last Nuclear solution (Yuck) but really economical:
A large buffer tank with large electrical resistance that operates during off-peak hours and an oil boiler takes over.
I am against the principle of heating with electric (except if ER) but it must be admitted that I see nothing else.
A+
Otherwise for the heating solution:
Heat pump (Nuclear) and / or Solar = Low temperature + investment
Wood boiler = Constraints and Volume to Store + Cost
Fuel oil boiler = by far the most practical but not environmentally friendly at all
There remains one last Nuclear solution (Yuck) but really economical:
A large buffer tank with large electrical resistance that operates during off-peak hours and an oil boiler takes over.
I am against the principle of heating with electric (except if ER) but it must be admitted that I see nothing else.
A+
0 x
Thank you for your answers...
most of the rooms in the house are 30m² each have 2 radiators (described above), 3,5 m high (except for a few rooms whose ceilings we lowered during the renovations: kitchens, bathroom, wc, 1 corridor) .
We heat the house between 19 and 18 ° except bathroom (+ hot), all the radiators have thermostats.
The boiler is set for a max. of 75 °, but it works with a Vitotronic 150 box which regulates the boiler according to the temperature chosen on the 18/19 ° boiler and the water circulating in its circuit. For info the water fluctuates between 49 ° and 55/58 ° (boiler poster).
Most thermostats are set below 3 (18/19 °)
2 bedrooms of 30 m² each and 2 bathrooms of 3 m² each are frost-free because they are unoccupied
in the house, by measurement with a thermometer, we have a temperature of 18/19 °. which suits us very well as a comfort temperature ...
most of the rooms in the house are 30m² each have 2 radiators (described above), 3,5 m high (except for a few rooms whose ceilings we lowered during the renovations: kitchens, bathroom, wc, 1 corridor) .
We heat the house between 19 and 18 ° except bathroom (+ hot), all the radiators have thermostats.
The boiler is set for a max. of 75 °, but it works with a Vitotronic 150 box which regulates the boiler according to the temperature chosen on the 18/19 ° boiler and the water circulating in its circuit. For info the water fluctuates between 49 ° and 55/58 ° (boiler poster).
Most thermostats are set below 3 (18/19 °)
2 bedrooms of 30 m² each and 2 bathrooms of 3 m² each are frost-free because they are unoccupied
in the house, by measurement with a thermometer, we have a temperature of 18/19 °. which suits us very well as a comfort temperature ...
0 x
Gregconstruct wrote:Cast iron radiator and low water temperature, I'm not sure it sticks!
Attention Greg, I believe that when Yann speaks of a low t ° boiler, it means a boiler emitting fumes at low t ° (hence a high combustion efficiency) and not a boiler heating water to t ° less hot than on the old boilers; confusion is often made, if Yann can confirm it.
Because, it should be remembered, a boiler can produce very hot water for a heated floor, it is just enough to mitigate this water via a thermostatic valve for example.
0 x
you mentioned an annual cost aspect in your message.
one of the "fuels" whose cost stability has not been denied for the moment is wood pellets. (see subject above)
you have to know if you have one or more suppliers in your area because it is expensive transport.
for cast iron radiators, this is what I have and the performance is good even with a low temperature (45 to 50 ° C) it is due to a large exchange surface and also to the fact that the 'era when we put this kind of radiator, the heat balance was approximate and rather oversized.
if you give me a little more info, we can roughly calculate your losses.
you need the heated volume and the surface, the city or region, your current consumption, the occupancy rate (occupied or not during the day, the WE) and do you lower the boiler during these phases (with a clock)
do you make hot water with it? all year? how many people?
one of the "fuels" whose cost stability has not been denied for the moment is wood pellets. (see subject above)
you have to know if you have one or more suppliers in your area because it is expensive transport.
for cast iron radiators, this is what I have and the performance is good even with a low temperature (45 to 50 ° C) it is due to a large exchange surface and also to the fact that the 'era when we put this kind of radiator, the heat balance was approximate and rather oversized.
if you give me a little more info, we can roughly calculate your losses.
you need the heated volume and the surface, the city or region, your current consumption, the occupancy rate (occupied or not during the day, the WE) and do you lower the boiler during these phases (with a clock)
do you make hot water with it? all year? how many people?
0 x
- Gregconstruct
- Econologue expert
- posts: 1781
- Registration: 07/11/07, 19:55
- Location: Amay Belgium
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