Plan boiler system Vigas wood log 25S

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jc-tergal
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Plan boiler system Vigas wood log 25S




by jc-tergal » 01/10/08, 00:29

Hello
here is my functional installation.

The kit purchased consists of a boiler Vigas 25S + 1000l buffer tank + Expansion vessel 100l + thermovanne load 61 ° with check valve and valve 1 + + 1circulateur pressure gauge and safety valve and purge + thermpvanne and safety thermowell + balloon insulation for a value of 2750 € ttc delivered.

I myself bought 1 additional circulator + some unions + elbows + valves + caps + purges + 40 / 42 tube iron + paste and tow.
My brother is a plumber so I got this price craftsman and free assembly !!
Why iron: ben elders prefer it to copper, it is cheaper given the diameters used. I am in 40 / 42 which corresponds to the outputs of boiler and the balloon. I think I have a better performance than a heavily reduced copper tube.
But you need the right equipment.

We will say that basically it cost me 3100 € being wide

So the very simple assembly plan

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I simply added the boiler to the already existing central heating circuit. Indeed I had a fuel boiler a few years ago.

The 1 circulator is controlled by the boiler processor. The 2 circulator rotates continuously. We can see the control panel on the boiler and on the left side the valve (not yet connected to cold water) that opens in the boiler to lower the temperature in case of power failure and high temperature rise in this one

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Sorry but we do not see the circulators on this photo hiding behind the big expansion tank.

The bypass on the balloon avoids having to heat the whole balloon for a simple occasional flambee.

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The ball is set horizontally for lack of height in the cellar. But even if I think I have a less good performance it still works very well
The 3 channel valve was already there. For warming up I favor the passage in the boiler (10 position) and after I put it on 5 so in the middle.

For the moment I charge between 3 and 4 times a day but I burn poplar which unfortunately burns fast enough. It should slow down with good old oak!
I think there is a lot of tar, but the wood is not the driest and I have not yet done the cleanings preconises.

Ignition very simple and fast.

A nice view of the tubes above the boiler that I still have to isolate

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Now cats sleep in the cellar :D
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dirk pitt
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by dirk pitt » 01/10/08, 09:09

3 or 4 times a day, that's a lot, even with bad wood, because it is a reverse combustion boiler which therefore has a greater "reserve" of wood than a classic.
at the beginning to heat the water of the balloon, it had to work at nominal power but then it should be reduced power in mild temperatures because it seems to me that this boiler is modulating in power. maybe the regulation parameters are not optimal.
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jc-tergal
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by jc-tergal » 01/10/08, 10:29

dirk pitt wrote: because it seems to me that this boiler is modulating in power. maybe the regulation parameters are not optimal.


I think so too, I play on the set temperature. I will also see with the day before. But as the wood is very tender it also plays it must not be forgotten.
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dirk pitt
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by dirk pitt » 01/10/08, 10:46

it seems to me that it would be necessary for the boiler to modulate its power as a function of a temperature sensor in the tank (at the top).
The balloon is only a reservoir of intermediate energy between the boiler and the radiators.
the thermal losses increasing (and nonlinearly) with the temperature, it is not at all interest to heat the water of the flask at 80 ° C. it is done to increase the autonomy but it would be better to have a larger volume at 60 ° C only.
The buffer tank is not the miracle tool, it is a way of minimizing the lack of power modulation of a boiler logs. You are lucky to have a modulating boiler with a significant autonomy thanks to the reserve of wood in inverted position. it must be regulated and used at its best rather than devastating the devil.


on your schema we do not see the oil boiler ??
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jc-tergal
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by jc-tergal » 01/10/08, 12:46

the oil boiler has not been released. I have not used it for years. I only warmed with my insert at home. So the boiler wood is easy tplutot compared to before !!
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jc-tergal
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by jc-tergal » 02/10/08, 07:49

I just solve the problem of excessive consumption of wood. I first lowered the set temperature from 70 to 68 °. But it's all about the importance of the 3 channel valve that I just understood.
For the heating of the balloon I put it on the 10 position to privilege the passage in the boiler, but the I put it on 5 and the wood recharge put last night was still half this morning.

In addition it does not burst more heat in the house. You need a little time to start understanding things, but every discovery is a pleasure! : Cheesy:
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dirk pitt
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by dirk pitt » 02/10/08, 08:23

this three-way valve should theoretically be driven according to the outside temperature. if it's mild, it's at 2 or 3, and goes up if it's cold. That's what I have on my boiler and it's really great.

once again, energetically speaking, we must always focus on the minimum necessary and sufficient water temperature. there is no need to make water at 70 ° C to send to the radiator and that the thermostatic faucets reduce to death the flow because it is soft.


on my old boiler where the three-way valve was manual, I re-judged according to the outdoor temperature 1 or 2 times a week.

you would also gain to put a room thermostat which controls the start and the stop of your circulator n ° 2 (that of the radiator circuit). moreover, if you choose a programmable model with clock (we find 20 euros) you can program a comfort temperature and a night temperature, etc.

otherwise, there is a doubt. if your balloon is horizontal, the thermal stratification is too. so the two return pipes should sink to the bottom. Is that the case ??
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by jc-tergal » 02/10/08, 09:11

indeed nothing is pilot. For the 3 channel valve, 5 seems a good value. We are not used to having hot in the house so we are very good.

On the other hand if a room thermostat controls the circulator N ° 2 and the 1 is stopped, will the water circulate anyway? In addition this thermostat can be connected to the boiler, but the buffer tank prevents the operation?

Yes I have a clock on the boiler but for the moment it is not programee, to understand the basic operation of the boiler.

For the balloon, no tube that goes to the bottom because not expected. I know that there is no stratification, so for that I kept as far as possible the hot tubes cold tubes back radiators. It is clear that it must reduce the yield but I had no choice.
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dirk pitt
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by dirk pitt » 02/10/08, 10:45

jc-tergal wrote:On the other hand if a room thermostat controls the circulator N ° 2 and the 1 is stopped, will the water circulate anyway? .


of course! it must be understood that the balloon is, as its name suggests, a buffer between the need: heat in the radiator, and the source: boiler.
in a boiler with log, the problem is that the heat released by the boiler is not always in phase with the need: indeed, one loads when one can, it lasts the time that it lasts while the need for heat in the radiators are sometimes different: we want heat by getting up in the morning when we loaded the night before and we did not want too much heat during the night, etc ...

your 1 circulator must be piloted by the boiler because it is it that decides when it needs to evacuate the heat of the fire. theoretically, there would also be a three-way valve at this location.

your 2 circulator (and the associated 3-channel valve, theoretically) must be driven by the need: a room thermostat with clock located in the house.

this way: if you charge during the day when the atmosphere themostat says he wants heat, the heat will pass in the balloon but will go back to the radiators.
on the other hand if you charge in the evening when the room thermostat says it does not need heat, the 2 circulator will go out and the heat will not go further than the buffer or it will accumulate.
thus: in the early morning, when the fire will have burst, the 2 thermostat will wake up and circulate the hot water of the balloon in your radiators.


jc-tergal wrote:Yes I have a clock on the boiler but for the moment it is not programee, to understand the basic operation of the boiler ..


it is necessary to look exactly in the doc of the boiler which is the function of this clock: is it to control the circulator of the radiators or other thing ?? is there a connection planned for a room sensor ??

jc-tergal wrote:For the balloon, no tube that goes to the bottom because not expected. I know that there is no stratification, so for that I kept as far as possible the hot tubes cold tubes back radiators. It is clear that it must reduce the yield but I had no choice.


that, I think it's a problem. the return will mix cold water directly with the hot water coming from the boiler.
1000L of balloon is already not huge and you will lose a large part of it. Do you have the diagram of this balloon? do you know if the inputs-outputs have "plungers" or system to avoid disturbing the stratification. If the return connection is a simple hole without a plunger, you might be able to put one by pushing a tube of a slightly smaller diameter in it that plunges to the bottom of the balloon.
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by ulyssesourd » 03/10/08, 15:54

Hi JC-TERGAL.

Congratulations for this installation but I have some remarks:

No need for 2 entries and 2 balloon outputs and all these valves ... because for optimum operation of your boiler while heating and recharging your 1000L balloon you need:

an inlet to the balloon with a JUNCTION towards the circulator / 3changes, and likewise an outlet of the balloon to the boiler with a JUNCTION on the return of the radiators.

This is the 3 channel valve that will control the priority direction of hot water from the boiler and / or the balloon.

This way you do not have to fear that your boiler is racing ...
The surplus will be poured towards the balloon and that the cold water which enters the boiler will be warmer since a part comes from the radiators which has preheated the cooler water of the balloon = Better performance and faster heating.

For this purpose, the speed of the boiler circulator must not exceed the speed of the radiator circulator.

It is that I understood at home with my boiler wood ...
Make expereinces and relève the temperatures at different endraoits and the duration of reloading of your balloon by the same outside temperature ...

Good experience.
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