Wind Improvement

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Bricolo07
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Wind Improvement




by Bricolo07 » 13/04/15, 11:51

Hello,
I have already made a wind turbine with plans found on the internet and it works but can be improved.
1) For the blades, I made a freehand polyester mold with frameworks based on plans, the result is suitable but not professional. Still having leftover resin and fabric, I would have liked to borrow a new blade from someone, cover it with wax and make it a mold, no risk of deterioration of the original part. Blade length desired between 60cm and 1m.
2) The generator, I built a homemade axial flow generator with magnets and copper coils, result I have 12v 0.8A at 300rpm or 12v 3.6A at 500rm if I connect 2x6 coil in parallel . The advantage is that by turning this system is almost no resistance and therefore does not brake the rotation, the disadvantage is that I do not think it is a super performance. So I'm looking for a way to improve this, at the beginning I was interested in rewinding an alternator but the resistance is too important. So if there is a way to take or convert a recovery material instead of building everything it interests me.
3) The regulator, currently nothing but can we put a solar regulator of battery charge? I applied a mechanical brake to limit rotation during strong winds.

I listen to all advice, thank you in advance
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elephant
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by elephant » 13/04/15, 16:02

Well done. If you were trying to put some pictures?
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by Bricolo07 » 13/04/15, 23:02

Yes it is on it is better in photo:
Image

After I can give you other info, such as the rotor diameter of 2.1m (fairly large hub), pale polyester resin mat. But I don't think it helps much since I want to change some parts.
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by elephant » 14/04/15, 09:27

Goods.

If I see and understand correctly, you are spinning an already large propeller fairly quickly.

With another gear ratio, you could make the alternator run faster, there would be more braking, the propeller would turn slower and the tension would be higher.

So, like in cycling: big gear, little gear :D
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by Bricolo07 » 14/04/15, 13:07

In fact since this photo there has been a change, I connected the generator directly with the main shaft, so that the inertia and the weight of the gégé regulates the rotation but turns slower but longer.
Has anyone managed to use a car alternator (rewound) on a wind turbine? I tried masi I have a lot of questions
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by bidouille23 » 14/04/15, 23:06

Hi DIY ...

The problem with the blades is that they are made to be in mechanical "harmony" with the generator ...

The idea is therefore to measure the mechanical characteristics of your generator to be able to define the needs at the blades ...

starting torque, maximum speed (passing the sound barrier with the blade tips will cause their dislocation), resistant torque of the generator which must hold the rotor without racing ...

Copying blades is therefore not the solution ...

pale and generator are inseparable ...

This is why piggot hugh provides blade planes that go with the generator plan. from the moment you change the characteristics of the generator you change the mechanical needs, so the blades ...

Personally I did a lot of tests, and I had surprising results quite simply ...

I fiberized on a 260 mm pvc tube, in order to have blades with a slightly hollow profile (a 120mm tube diameter will give a blade foot that is far too hollow and therefore will brake quickly) ... Cut directly into pvc is possible, personally I had bad surprises (the tensions in the pvc we made that my blades were twisted once cut) ..

The ideal is therefore measured on the generator:
1) the starting torque
2) to measure the productions at various paces (rpm), laden and unladen
3) resistances to each diet (Fcem)
4) deduct the torques for each rpm (rotation per minute)
example at 50 rpm _ 100rpm _200 - 300 etc

and this respecting the maximum blade tip speed which is the speed of sound will give you the maximum speed of rotation of the generator, if the blades can reach this speed (depending on the case it will self-brake) ...

The ideal is therefore to find someone who has for example the software called helical ...

But in any case don't be discouraged;), and read this if you haven't already ...

http://eolienne.f4jr.org/eolienne_etude_theorique

wind wiki;) ...

The base is really your generator, if you want to get the most out of it you have to define its characteristics above all ...
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by Bricolo07 » 19/04/15, 15:50

sorry i was on another project in parallel but i'm coming back now to my wind turbine so as far as info is concerned.
For the propeller, rotor diameter 1.9m, max speed 450rpm in gusty winds.
For generator, info tested by hand without being connected to the blades, 12v 0.8A at 300rpm, resistance force almost zero, once launched I interview with a finger without forcing. By cons to make the first by it takes a little more effort but how to measure it?
I would have liked to reduce the diameter of the blades to increase the speed. Or change the generator but put what?
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by Bricolo07 » 19/04/15, 15:50

I have an electrical question:
What happens if you connect a generator producing 12v 2A and another at 8v 1.5A in parallel? The tensions should be added but what happens amperes?
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by elephant » 19/04/15, 16:57

Forget! The "stronger" will make the other turn.

For the rest: stop letting your mill run so fast and your alternator so slowly!
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by bidouille23 » 19/04/15, 18:50

Hello ,

For the propeller, rotor diameter 1.9m, max speed 450rpm in gusty winds.


: Mrgreen: how big, big like a hand or big like a castle? (maybe one or two measurements with an anemometer even very basic kind of hike stuff at decath ... we would do the trick for a beginning ...)

For generator, info tested by hand without being connected to the blades, 12v 0.8A at 300rpm, resistance force almost zero


unless you have a suitable device and mounting you can only deduct the torque according to the rpm ..

The only torque you can measure is that of starting ... which must be almost zero ...

You reread a bar 1m long at the end of the bar, you put a scale, and you turn the end to start the movement, and at the launch point you read the measurement on the scale ... you will therefore have " g / m ";) ...

I would have liked to reduce the diameter of the blades to increase the speed. Or change the generator but put what?


here is a nice proof that either you did not read the wikieolienne link or you did not understand it taste (something very likely in view of the sum of elements to understand when one is not an engineer;), I did the costs too ..)

a blade clearance is calculated, each blade section, at a given distance from the hub, will have a given torque and speed allowing the steady state and power of the generator ... A blade has a lambda coefficient which will determine its speed also has a profile which will also determine its speed .... you do not put a profile of gust wing on a jumbo jet, the dynamic aero constraints are not the same ... it is the same for a wind turbine ... at slow speed with gear reduction or at fast speed in direct drive the rotors will be different ...

Your blades must agree with the mechanical needs of the generator ...

As long as you have not determined the real needs you will piss in a violin, and in the end it will hurt your ears in addition ...;)

To make a concrete project, it is above all necessary to start from the real needs in life: turn on LED bulbs with a total power of 50 w for example ... there you have a need ...

How long to ignite? you will have a precision of your first need which is "to light the bulbs"


So you will know how much you need to produce per day.

now there is no wind every day .. so you have to determine "the wind potential" in your place (it is variable at ten meters sometimes depending on the obstacle)


with this wind potential you will have an idea of ​​what quantity of batteries you will need to fulfill your need to "light bulbs of 50 w in total for x time" and this every day.

let's say that your generator fulfills this need and that the weather and geographic conditions are met, you still have to connect your generator to the batteries chosen to provide the amount of amperes necessary to keep the bulbs in lit mode for x time. .

Once your generator is connected to this battery pack (or this), you can measure the starting torque, then you will measure for each rmp the electrical characteristics of the generator ... U, R, I fct RPM and you will be able to deduce the corresponding resistant couples ...

With that you can calculate a set of blades, which will have an adequate starting angle to overcome the necessary starting torque ...

I'm still far from being able to explain everything clearly ( :) ), but change one end then the other then the two then everything etc, will not get you anywhere except in a big wall ... which would be a shame because you seem super motivated ...
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