Hello everybody
I would like to install a small wind turbine of around 1000w. I know that what matters most in this process is to treat exposure to the wind. So I should ideally place it 12m above the ground, above the surrounding roofs.
My constraints are as follows: rather suburban urban environment and good orientation in relation to the prevailing winds. In addition we are in a wind corridor (straight street which opens into the facade) and fairly clear rear side (campus with few buildings and a few trees) which makes the installation perhaps interesting.
The garden is not very large (around 100m2 available on the ground) which restricts the use of guy lines. The house is about 6m high. The garden is occupied by an old house converted into a summer kitchen and workshop (height about 3m)
So I would like to place the wind turbine at least 10m high. My first idea was to fix the mast on the workshop wall. This would be possible for the first 3 meters but for the rest I think that the solution is not viable. This would indeed allow me to mount a mast of 6m at most which would not be really effective. So I'm looking for a mast-less mast solution compatible with this configuration.
I forgot to specify that the access of a crane is impossible therefore exit the masts of only one part and the big works of foundation.
The solution proposed here http://www.aurore-energies.com/eolienne/mat_d_appui_mural_anti_vibration_pour_eolienne/mat_mural_pour_eolienne_whisper_100.html partially answers my problem but would not allow me to reach an interesting height.
Here if you have ideas I am interested because there I dry completely.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Jerome
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Small wind turbine: mast question
I think that if you want to do without a guy, you have to look to tinker with a freestanding mast: basically 3 or 4 tubes or angles connected to each other by crosspieces, just like high voltage pylons.
it can be assembled directly on site by welding or bolting. If you are not dizzy and taking the necessary precautions (harness, helmet) you can assemble it directly on the spot already erected (the crosspieces serve as a ladder rung to access the top part)
Otherwise, some use lampposts: large octagonal galvanized tubes with a slightly conical shape.
it can be assembled directly on site by welding or bolting. If you are not dizzy and taking the necessary precautions (harness, helmet) you can assemble it directly on the spot already erected (the crosspieces serve as a ladder rung to access the top part)
Otherwise, some use lampposts: large octagonal galvanized tubes with a slightly conical shape.
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- Grand Econologue
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Bonjour,
between being and appearing there is a margin.
If this margin is positive all the better otherwise it is the cat ...
If you fix your mast to your wall and your mast is undersized it is not the concrete block that will hold it, the wall will come with the mast if it falls.
between an antenna and a wind turbine the constraints are not the same, for a wind turbine of 1Kw I would say seen from the nose that you are going to have a rotor of app 2.4m in diameter, it pushes hard when the wind blows ...
you should do a little calculation before ...
And before buying your wind turbine you should above all measure the wind with an anemometer and not at first sight, and take a measurement over 5 to 6 months if possible, in short knowing the potential of the wind at home, this will avoid bad surprises when it comes to production.
and between us 12 m is the minimum to have stable app wind and especially the maximum for not having to apply for a building permit, but in no case the ideal height to have a good production ...
between being and appearing there is a margin.
If this margin is positive all the better otherwise it is the cat ...
If you fix your mast to your wall and your mast is undersized it is not the concrete block that will hold it, the wall will come with the mast if it falls.
between an antenna and a wind turbine the constraints are not the same, for a wind turbine of 1Kw I would say seen from the nose that you are going to have a rotor of app 2.4m in diameter, it pushes hard when the wind blows ...
you should do a little calculation before ...
And before buying your wind turbine you should above all measure the wind with an anemometer and not at first sight, and take a measurement over 5 to 6 months if possible, in short knowing the potential of the wind at home, this will avoid bad surprises when it comes to production.
and between us 12 m is the minimum to have stable app wind and especially the maximum for not having to apply for a building permit, but in no case the ideal height to have a good production ...
0 x
- plasmanu
- Econologue expert
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- Registration: 21/11/04, 06:05
- Location: The 07170 Lavilledieu viaduct
- x 180
It is the same principle as the EDF poles of narrow streets so as not to touch the ground.
No guy lines.
It looks like a double attachment for a dish.
With little wind it moves your head a little.
But it's solid.
Wind turbine about 1kwh.
Effective if you don't go up a lot.
In my opinion behind the concrete block wall there is also a larger internal square which fixes the external square.
No guy lines.
It looks like a double attachment for a dish.
With little wind it moves your head a little.
But it's solid.
Wind turbine about 1kwh.
Effective if you don't go up a lot.
In my opinion behind the concrete block wall there is also a larger internal square which fixes the external square.
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"Not to see Evil, not to hear Evil, not to speak Evil" 3 little monkeys Mizaru
- chatelot16
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to choose the height you should not do the maximum allowed so 12m ... and it would even be desirable to do more ... too bad the authorization is difficult to obtain
for a 12m mast, fixing it to a 3 meter wall is of little use: in any case, the foundation on the ground must hold up, and at worst if it doesn't hold up, it's not worth it. demolish half the house with
the high-voltage pylon-style solution is the most practical: construction angles of angle cut and drilled with precision, assembled by bolt, the part already mounted serving as scaffolding to climb higher
the wider the post, the more we can reduce the amount of iron for the same total resistance
the round iron posts are less bulky, but thicker and heavier ... and more difficult to build since a crane is required
Another detail, the cross-post is not only easy to build, but easy to dismantle for, to rebuild it elsewhere, if that does not give satisfaction
anemometer, we often use anemometer with 3 half ball: there is a big one in convenient: they work too well with all the wind directions: they are therefore too optimistic with the vortex, which never blow long enough to benefit a true wind turbine: it is therefore necessary not only to record the wind speed at the anemometer, but also the direction, and to make calculations to subtract all the times or the direction changes too quickly
foundation for a pylon in cross: it must be heavy: it is not necessarily the best idea to waste concrete below ground level: I prefer to make a betit square building in solid masonry whose weight is used to ensure the stability of the pylon
a house can also serve as a foundation, but do not fix at the top of the wall which does not have a great solidity: fix at the bottom of the wall to take advantage of all the weight of the wall
we see a triangular cross-mast with 3 posts for the GSM antenna: it makes weird angles and complicates the construction: I find the square pylons high voltage style easier to make in angle
for a 12m mast, fixing it to a 3 meter wall is of little use: in any case, the foundation on the ground must hold up, and at worst if it doesn't hold up, it's not worth it. demolish half the house with
the high-voltage pylon-style solution is the most practical: construction angles of angle cut and drilled with precision, assembled by bolt, the part already mounted serving as scaffolding to climb higher
the wider the post, the more we can reduce the amount of iron for the same total resistance
the round iron posts are less bulky, but thicker and heavier ... and more difficult to build since a crane is required
Another detail, the cross-post is not only easy to build, but easy to dismantle for, to rebuild it elsewhere, if that does not give satisfaction
anemometer, we often use anemometer with 3 half ball: there is a big one in convenient: they work too well with all the wind directions: they are therefore too optimistic with the vortex, which never blow long enough to benefit a true wind turbine: it is therefore necessary not only to record the wind speed at the anemometer, but also the direction, and to make calculations to subtract all the times or the direction changes too quickly
foundation for a pylon in cross: it must be heavy: it is not necessarily the best idea to waste concrete below ground level: I prefer to make a betit square building in solid masonry whose weight is used to ensure the stability of the pylon
a house can also serve as a foundation, but do not fix at the top of the wall which does not have a great solidity: fix at the bottom of the wall to take advantage of all the weight of the wall
we see a triangular cross-mast with 3 posts for the GSM antenna: it makes weird angles and complicates the construction: I find the square pylons high voltage style easier to make in angle
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- plasmanu
- Econologue expert
- posts: 2847
- Registration: 21/11/04, 06:05
- Location: The 07170 Lavilledieu viaduct
- x 180
This is the principle of the honeycomb structure.
It is the best compromise, materials, weight, resistance.
Gifted nature.
Then: broad base, towards fine point: it is hollow inside. Well seen to access.
And like the spider we make the center and then we stretch cables all around. It resists drops of water. On a large scale.
It is the best compromise, materials, weight, resistance.
Gifted nature.
Then: broad base, towards fine point: it is hollow inside. Well seen to access.
And like the spider we make the center and then we stretch cables all around. It resists drops of water. On a large scale.
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"Not to see Evil, not to hear Evil, not to speak Evil" 3 little monkeys Mizaru
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- Grand Econologue
- posts: 1155
- Registration: 21/06/09, 01:02
- Location: Britain BZH powaaa
- x 2
As for a round mast, there is no need for a crane, above all you need an articulated mast foot with a lever bar at right angles to the mast, and at the end of the bar a ring to be able to hang a choice of car or safe.
We can cut the mast in half (provide a bolt to reattach the two pieces), articulate the two parts between it, and on the top part put a drawbar too, suddenly once the first section mounted and fixed have put the hard pull on the second bar and we pull hard;), it pivots and then we bolt the two parts together, bingo have a round mast erected without a crane;).
otherwise here is an example of what you can do:
http://www.fieldlines.com/index.php/top ... #msg928142
go to the middle of the subject and open the pdf you will have a plan;).
In addition, we have a better understanding of what I have just explained ...
here otherwise
http://www.deanbennett.com/tower_instructions.htm
and finally
http://www.fieldlines.com/index.php/top ... #msg914848
there are also the necessary calculations to do explained and the drawings that go well in the named pdf
http://www.kkn.net/dayton2005/KE1IH-Dayton-2005.pdf
see you
We can cut the mast in half (provide a bolt to reattach the two pieces), articulate the two parts between it, and on the top part put a drawbar too, suddenly once the first section mounted and fixed have put the hard pull on the second bar and we pull hard;), it pivots and then we bolt the two parts together, bingo have a round mast erected without a crane;).
otherwise here is an example of what you can do:
http://www.fieldlines.com/index.php/top ... #msg928142
go to the middle of the subject and open the pdf you will have a plan;).
In addition, we have a better understanding of what I have just explained ...
here otherwise
http://www.deanbennett.com/tower_instructions.htm
and finally
http://www.fieldlines.com/index.php/top ... #msg914848
there are also the necessary calculations to do explained and the drawings that go well in the named pdf
http://www.kkn.net/dayton2005/KE1IH-Dayton-2005.pdf
see you
0 x
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