Seedling soil?

Agriculture and soil. Pollution control, soil remediation, humus and new agricultural techniques.
Moindreffor
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Seedling soil?




by Moindreffor » 06/07/19, 09:21

for my seedlings I buy seedlings and after I buy the soil of transplanting to move to bigger buckets, it does not have a blow exorbitant but I wish I could do otherwise
I tried with 100% garden soil, good mine it's really not TOP, so it did not have the expected success

so my question, what do you do with it?
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Re: seedbed




by Did67 » 06/07/19, 09:39

I share the reflection !!

a) sowing compost: very wettable, guaranteed without "anti-germination" - therefore very practical; most (you really have to look if you want to use it without - read the labels on the back!) contain a little fertilizer (organic or not depending on the brand); then it starts well; the waterings quickly "wash away" the few nutrients so very quickly it stagnates and vegetates ...

I have tried products used by professionals. The result is the same. In fact, they are "culture supports". The plants are raised on tide tables, and receive "what is needed" by irrigation from below - this is the principle of tide tables ...

b) I tried the land of molehills (to value all the work my mole rats do and put them in the spotlight - it shouldn't be funny to be always criticized!): it's deeper earth, very loose when they "worked" it; in my case, they turned out to be very poor; it also very quickly turned into "concrete" after watering and it was appallingly poor - worse than potting soil; it really stagnated!

c) then, it is rare that I replant in larger pots; I sometimes plant all rikiki seedlings in the vegetable garden, which very quickly turn green and regain vigor; alas, sometimes, too small, the damage of slugs is irreversible while large plants are only gnawed on the periphery, the heart remains ... The heat can also be fatal, with these plants too small (especially when the root system is too weak to maintain the root ball, which crumbles - we then plant in "bare roots" without wanting to ...

I think of compost ripe would be, in mixture with good surface soil (well vegetable and alive), an elegant solution. But I do not have compost !!!

Over time, I will have a very topsoil layer on the surface, following repeated contributions to the surface. I plan to scrape it with a hoe, to make piles of "soil" from my "surface decomposition". But what a job for a lazy person !!!!
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Moindreffor
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Re: seedbed




by Moindreffor » 06/07/19, 15:00

Did67 wrote:I share the reflection !!

a) sowing compost: very wettable, guaranteed without "anti-germination" - therefore very practical; most (you really have to look if you want to use it without - read the labels on the back!) contain a little fertilizer (organic or not depending on the brand); then it starts well; the waterings quickly "wash away" the few nutrients so very quickly it stagnates and vegetates ...

I have tried products used by professionals. The result is the same. In fact, they are "culture supports". The plants are raised on tide tables, and receive "what is needed" by irrigation from below - this is the principle of tide tables ...

b) I tried the land of molehills (to value all the work my mole rats do and put them in the spotlight - it shouldn't be funny to be always criticized!): it's deeper earth, very loose when they "worked" it; in my case, they turned out to be very poor; it also very quickly turned into "concrete" after watering and it was appallingly poor - worse than potting soil; it really stagnated!

c) then, it is rare that I replant in larger pots; I sometimes plant all rikiki seedlings in the vegetable garden, which very quickly turn green and regain vigor; alas, sometimes, too small, the damage of slugs is irreversible while large plants are only gnawed on the periphery, the heart remains ... The heat can also be fatal, with these plants too small (especially when the root system is too weak to maintain the root ball, which crumbles - we then plant in "bare roots" without wanting to ...

I think of compost ripe would be, in mixture with good surface soil (well vegetable and alive), an elegant solution. But I do not have compost !!!

Over time, I will have a very topsoil layer on the surface, following repeated contributions to the surface. I plan to scrape it with a hoe, to make piles of "soil" from my "surface decomposition". But what a job for a lazy person !!!!

I am at the same point and the same observations, and the same tests
at the beginning of the season I bought a bag of 20L of semi potting soil, there was nothing else, then at the end of the season, I found bags of 40L practically at the same price, if not a little less expensive
with the site monpotefleurs.com 'given by Didier) we can have something to do sowing for dear, it's really cheaper than garden, and just have sub plates to tide table

just a question for Didier, with a tide table it's constant watering, or we send the water, let it impregnate and remove the excess, acr with es mini cells, if we leave the water all the time c is really very wet
if I order I would take the model above because it is a little too small, although it will depend on what we want to do
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Re: seedbed




by Did67 » 06/07/19, 15:09

Precisely, the tide tables are very temporary "floods" from below. We bring the water, we wait for it to rise by capillary action (which means that it does not occupy the entire volume; the macro-porosity remains filled with air). And we get the solution.

It's automated in large units.

Hence the importance of having very "hydrophilic" "sowing soil". Have you noticed that the water is like "attracted" when you water a seedling soil, and that the root ball gets wet very quickly? While another potting soil is water repellent and does not get wet easily?

PS: I fight with my wife - so to speak - so that she stops flooding the seedlings !!! Too much water is harmful. Rice is rarely grown (which, moreover, is transplanted in the paddy field, and does not sow there - except rainfed rice, which does not grow in water!). It takes air. It just needs to be "wet" (you squeeze and there is no water that should flow out). At the same time, it must not dry out. So it's not easy when you're not there all the time! Hence the automatisms!
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Re: seedbed




by Moindreffor » 06/07/19, 15:14

Did67 wrote:Precisely, the tide tables are very temporary "floods" from below. We bring the water, we wait for it to rise by capillary action (which means that it does not occupy the entire volume; the macro-porosity remains filled with air). And we get the solution.

It's automated in large units.

Hence the importance of having very "hydrophilic" "sowing soil". Have you noticed that the water is like "attracted" when you water a seedling soil, and that the root ball gets wet very quickly? While another potting soil is water repellent and does not get wet easily?

PS: I fight with my wife - so to speak - so that she stops flooding the seedlings !!! Too much water is harmful. Rice is rarely grown (which, moreover, is transplanted in the paddy field, and does not sow there - except rainfed rice, which does not grow in water!). It takes air. It just needs to be "wet" (you squeeze and there is no water that should flow out). At the same time, it must not dry out. So it's not easy when you're not there all the time! Hence the automatisms!

yes to wet a bucket of soil transplanting, it is practically to plunge the bucket to more than half in water, against the soil of semi is easily wetted by capillarity
it's a whole job : Mrgreen:
I plunge my seedbed a little every day depending on the surface drying, after emergence, there will still need to be more careful because of evapotranspiration
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Re: seedbed




by Did67 » 06/07/19, 15:19

At least I did not tell you bullshit: you watched it with your eyes!

Well, if you have adequate saucers, one solution is to fill from below, the saucer if it is horizontal, overflowing; and this water will rise by capillarity. You put back a dose as soon as it dries on the surface and retracts slightly from the edges. Sign that the water will be missing.
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Re: seedbed




by Moindreffor » 06/07/19, 20:10

Did67 wrote:At least I did not tell you bullshit: you watched it with your eyes!

Well, if you have adequate saucers, one solution is to fill from below, the saucer if it is horizontal, overflowing; and this water will rise by capillarity. You put back a dose as soon as it dries on the surface and retracts slightly from the edges. Sign that the water will be missing.

that's what I practice, and on the site that you gave us, you can buy the trays to put under the seedling plates, it helps when it's the right size

on the other hand once raised, there I will observe because the mini cells dry very quickly, especially if you put in the light, a little top of sun and wind and the little soil dries up in nothing, so there I think to provide a water tank (bottle upside down)

but above all, I'm going to think about putting a liquid fertilizer in the water, we really see the difference when we put a little fertilizer, there I water with water enriched with 10% urine, my leek semi, it starts finally, I have left it too long despite the enrichment of the soil of transplanting, it is not enough
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Re: seedbed




by Did67 » 06/07/19, 22:12

Yes, with a bottle upside down, properly positioned, this does it: when the level is reached, there is no more air coming in, so more water comes out and when the level drops, releases the bottleneck, a little air will come in and the water come out. This is what we use to water animals in cages ... Just a good support to tinker!
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Re: Sowing soil?




by izentrop » 07/07/19, 01:12

Moindreffor wrote: there I water with water enriched with 10% urine, my semi leek, it starts finally, I left it too long despite the enrichment of the soil of transplanting, it is not enough
That's what I'm doing this year as well. I added my lactic fermentation juice to the tank. With the contributions of various MO and this juice, I have never had artichokes as beautiful and productive.
I also have a remaining bag of old leek seeds, sown on the floor of my greenhouse, which took a lot of time to get out. They will not be big enough for this winter?
My bare rooted carrots are growing well. the tomatoes are beautiful and I feel that the first to harvest will be for very soon.
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Re: Sowing soil?




by Did67 » 07/07/19, 09:25

Last year, drought already. My leeks, sown late, planted late, were ridiculous in the fall: diameter of a big pencil, rather of a small felt-tip ... They kept developing and were quite appreciable around November / rubble and quite strong, among the most beautiful that I have had, around February-March (the winter was quite mild, with some peaks at -8 ° and a few; the leek resists). From memory, without any guarantee, it was "bleu de Solaise", a leek described as winter.
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