toilet without power booster

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dirk pitt
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toilet without power booster




by dirk pitt » 17/07/09, 16:30

I collect rainwater in an existing 5000L underground tank.
I only use this water for the garden via an arm pump and watering cans.
so far, all is well: zero energy expended (except elbow grease)
I would like to use it to power the toilets but I am reluctant to put a booster because of the purchase price but especially the additional energy spent for this use.
if it is, the overall energy balance is higher than that using city water.
for those who want to supply more washing machine or other things, you have to see but just for the toilet, it makes me ch..r. : Cheesy:
so I thought of another solution:
a can in the attic filled with a small inexpensive and not powerful solar pump and a gravity feed.
here is what it could give:
Image
the pipe supplying the container could even pass inside the channel descent to pass under a tile and fill the container.
an overflow is essential especially that I plan to make the simplest, that is to say no high level detection. (you have to see, I think I would be obliged otherwise the available energy will be too low)
the overflow flows directly into the channel.
the toilet is supplied by gravity with an additional float valve on the opposite side from that of the network. all flushes have 2 entrances. the tap on the network side will be closed most of the time except in the event of large diarrhea!

the pump canister pump style for motorhomes is for 20 or 30 €. it must have a maximum pressure of 1 bar or more to be able to overcome the difference in level and the pressure drops.
the power is about 20W

little table corner calculation as I like them:
the water consumption of the toilets is around 100L / d (4 people)
to raise the water to this height, I suppose that the 20W pump delivers only 3L / min, so it takes a big half hour to raise 100L or 36Wh / d
in my region, the average energy harvested in PV is around 3Wh / Wc.j so I need a panel of 36/3 = 12W
by putting a battery of recovery inverter as buffer, all that should not cost me expensive and energy consumed = zero. all in the sun.
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by Former Oceano » 17/07/09, 21:36

I thought of an equivalent system.
For simplicity I thought of an old water heater by cutting an opening at the top.
Advantage:

1 - It attaches to the wall = no weight on the floor.
2 - Recovery possible = 0 €.
3 - Use of existing exits:
Cold water outlet to supply the toilets.
Hot water outlet for overflow.

Filling through the top opening.

By cons to simplify, I would put a float system in the water heater (set below the hot water tube) with a flush valve to fill the tank in case of deficit in recycled water. A valve in the WC is enough to supply or not this system with city water.
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boubka
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by boubka » 18/07/09, 13:15

hello dirk pitt
I would like to use it to power the toilets but I am reluctant to put a booster because of the purchase price but especially the additional energy spent for this use.
if it is, the overall energy balance is higher than that using city water.

the price of a basic booster and 70 euro
600 watt pump, flow rate: 3600 liters / ha 40 meters.
so just in flow the energy balance is much better than your little pump is about 8w for 100l or 0.8w for1l, at 0.11euro kw ca is 0.0088 cents per liter.

but for toilets the flow being restricted by the float valve it is necessary to reflect in time:
I consider that it is necessary by being very large 1 min for 10 liters of water, or 10min for your 100 liters.
so 10min with a 600w pump knowing that for the booster it will be stopped at least half the time it makes us 5 min at 10 watts / min or 50 w which costs 0.00011 x 50 = 0.0055 euro per day (or even 20 euro per year)

or 5.5 cents per cubic meter

only remains to calculate the depreciation period / at the price of a cubic meter of city water
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jlp24
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Registration: 26/07/09, 12:26




by jlp24 » 26/07/09, 18:02

hello dirk pitt,

This is "almost" exactly the principle that has been in operation with me for 10 months.

I said "almost" because I did not do the solar part, it was originally planned, but between the current low current consumption and the price of the solar installation! I hesitate.

regarding your plan what worries me a little is the height.
when I received my "pompinette" as you say, I put it in a basin, to see its efficiency and it was impressive, but once traversed the 18 meters of pipe and the 5 meters of height it remains plus a lot of throughput.

here is the link where I found my 12 volt pump
http://www.conrad.fr/pompes_submersible ... 217149_FAS

I took the model with the delivery head of 10m but there is another at 14m, however type "pump" in the keyword search there are still other models, the hardest part is to find the right one choice, (the first pump that I put to burn after three weeks) : Evil:



something else: you are talking about putting a 200 liter tank "damn, damn", (for lack of space) my can is only 30 liters but given the low flow I have left, I have time to m '' to grill one during filling, because there is another problem with these pumps, they must not operate more than 30 minutes uninterrupted unless you take the model BWV 04 (code: 53 90 90) but there its delivery height is 6 meters.
In my opinion 50 to 100 liters should be enough, even if you have two toilets according to your plan, it is better that the pump runs more often than longer.

one last thing, by feedback, in the choice of the flush float valve
look on this link (check "float valves")

http://www.leroymerlin.fr/mpng2-front/p ... ogue#first

do not choose the "compact float valve against pressure", it is true that it is ideal because of its size but the pressure exerted by the water tank is not enough to make it work

we must take the "lever float valve"


I just reread your post: I don't know in which region you live, but the pipe passing through the channel and under the tiles GARE AU GEL !!


here is! if you have any questions the problem of which I have encountered!
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gromove
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by gromove » 13/08/09, 17:01

Here is my DIY. Very basic compared to all that I could see above, but for those who are not too DIY, it is ideal:

The constraint that I had imposed on myself was not to use a pump (so as not to compensate for the saving of water by a loss of electricity), something possible thanks to the gravitational energy. So I had to raise my cistern so that its tap was higher than that of the flush. The question was "How much higher so that there is enough difference in height for the water to flow properly?" So I put my tank as high as possible (it touches the gutter) on a stack of rows of agglomerates, I got a drop of 30 centimeters and that seems sufficient (but those who have the possibility of putting more it's better because the more there is difference in height, the more pressure there is).
For water filtration: a strainer at the gutter + an old sock for fine particles. For toilets, this is sufficient (the water is relatively colorless and odorless). Important thing to note: the tap is a little above the bottom of the tank so as not to collect the dirt accumulated at the bottom.
Image
The pipe goes underground and through the cellar then goes up to the WC.
Image
I kept the normal water supply to open when the tank was empty, and I added a tap and a float on the other side for the tank water. I bought a float with a rod long enough and malleable to be able to bypass the central part of the flush.
Small tip: at the outlet of the float valves, there is often a flow restrictor (diameter no larger than a needle). In the raw state, my system did not work (too little pressure), so I had to cut the end piece (where the plastic pipe usually fits but which will not be used here) to have more large flow diameter.
Warning: 2 floats is a lot in a flush because there is not much room, so you have to shape the rods of the floats so that they do not interfere with each other.
In addition, the "small and large quantity" two-button systems take up much more space than a pull-tab system, which should therefore be preferred, especially with a pull-tab you can also let go of a small amount of water by pressing again before the flush has had time to empty.
Another thing: the floats are very often set too high, which consumes a lot more water than necessary. Adjust your floats so that the hunt is only half full, in general this is enough to "make everything go" (friends of poetry, good evening!).
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