Everything is in the title: is it possible to take off "old" sanitary waste water drainage pipes in order to recover elbows and fittings for a modification of the network?
Obviously I think it will use a nasty chemical solvent but hey if it allows to recycle equipment ...
Holding tank: take off or desoldering glued PVC pipes
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Holding tank: take off or desoldering glued PVC pipes
Last edited by Christophe the 29 / 03 / 12, 14: 12, 3 edited once.
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Not to my knowledge (very limited in terms of PVC bonding.
Any attempt I made to take off PVC tubes was miserably failed
Any attempt I made to take off PVC tubes was miserably failed
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"Thinking should not it be taught in school rather than to make learning by heart the facts that are not all proven?"
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
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Well ... what methods did you try?
Because I just read on different forums from the net that apparently by heating (heat gun) we could get off the ground ...
Problem: I have no scraper and the price of the scraper is much higher than the 3 or 4 fittings that I hope to recover ...
Christine you lend me your hair dryer?
Because I just read on different forums from the net that apparently by heating (heat gun) we could get off the ground ...
Problem: I have no scraper and the price of the scraper is much higher than the 3 or 4 fittings that I hope to recover ...
Christine you lend me your hair dryer?
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Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
Yes I tried the heat gun, result when and if it loose the elbow is little or more usable because deformed.
Note maybe I was too strong
And then everything also depends on the glue that was used and the quantity, in short mine was "very much" stuck and it dates a little ..
As for solvents, I have never obtained anything concrete because either the solvent has no action or it softens the plastic that deforms and remains maleable.
But once again I know little about PVC, a good bonding on PMMA, you break the Plexi but not the bonding (the breakage can be caused by the evaporation of the solvent which creates a micro-initiation of rupture).
Note maybe I was too strong
And then everything also depends on the glue that was used and the quantity, in short mine was "very much" stuck and it dates a little ..
As for solvents, I have never obtained anything concrete because either the solvent has no action or it softens the plastic that deforms and remains maleable.
But once again I know little about PVC, a good bonding on PMMA, you break the Plexi but not the bonding (the breakage can be caused by the evaporation of the solvent which creates a micro-initiation of rupture).
Last edited by delnoram the 09 / 12 / 07, 16: 00, 1 edited once.
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"Thinking should not it be taught in school rather than to make learning by heart the facts that are not all proven?"
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
I have already done with a scraper, it must be heated regularly and not too hard and over the entire surface glued. But it's true after the pipes is deformed and you can not get well afterwards. But it's not very profitable
Christine's dry hair does not get hot enough, and if it's a good mark you risk a household scene.
Christine's dry hair does not get hot enough, and if it's a good mark you risk a household scene.
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If you do the recovery of elbows, and re-used in your installation, it will not look nice on the next photo ...
It's really not worth it, to risk a leak, with a recovery made by sandpaper.
In case of emergency and necessity, you can always try.
I think the glue will not move. If you want to recover an elbow, it will sacrifice the right pipe part that arrives on it, with pliers, knife, chisel, abrasive, time and Urgo.
You can also cut the pipe at 4cm from the elbow and re-use another one, either with a standard socket-fitting, to stick, or by heating the pipe to give it a "female" shape.
The best is a piece of 40 wood, rounded at the end (like pick handle).
To heat, a heat gun. A flame can do the trick (soudogaz, or oven burner) in moderation, and in several times. The problem is that it darkens or burns very fast, so it will be necessary to paint afterwards.
When the heated pipe has taken shape on the wood you turn, you dip in a basin of water or a wet cloth to solidify the end
Try with the deomby pushing the right pipe into the access hole, the time required, this must be the case ..
It's really not worth it, to risk a leak, with a recovery made by sandpaper.
In case of emergency and necessity, you can always try.
I think the glue will not move. If you want to recover an elbow, it will sacrifice the right pipe part that arrives on it, with pliers, knife, chisel, abrasive, time and Urgo.
You can also cut the pipe at 4cm from the elbow and re-use another one, either with a standard socket-fitting, to stick, or by heating the pipe to give it a "female" shape.
The best is a piece of 40 wood, rounded at the end (like pick handle).
To heat, a heat gun. A flame can do the trick (soudogaz, or oven burner) in moderation, and in several times. The problem is that it darkens or burns very fast, so it will be necessary to paint afterwards.
When the heated pipe has taken shape on the wood you turn, you dip in a basin of water or a wet cloth to solidify the end
Try with the deomby pushing the right pipe into the access hole, the time required, this must be the case ..
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gegyx wrote:You can also cut the pipe at 4cm from the elbow and re-use another one, either with a standard socket-fitting, to stick, or by heating the pipe to give it a "female" shape.
The best is a piece of 40 wood, rounded at the end (like pick handle).
To heat, a heat gun. A flame can do the trick (soudogaz, or oven burner) in moderation, and in several times. The problem is that it darkens or burns very fast, so it will be necessary to paint afterwards.
When the heated pipe has taken shape on the wood you turn, you dip in a basin of water or a wet cloth to solidify the end
Try with the deomby pushing the right pipe into the access hole, the time required, this must be the case ..
That's what I do. For takeoff, if the pipe is not super well glued with shocks we can sometimes take off, but success is rare.
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Patience is a tree whose root is bitter, and whose fruits are very sweet.
Patience is a tree whose root is bitter, and whose fruits are very sweet.
The strong solvent PVC glue is comparable to a cold weld, the solvents allow the fusion of 2 plastic parts as in the case of autogenous or arc welding.
It seems to me that good glues for PMMA work on the same principle.
I use heat (furnace or blowtorch, because I do not have a good thermo-regulated heat gun yet) to form the various parts that I want to realize in pvc.
It seems to me that good glues for PMMA work on the same principle.
I use heat (furnace or blowtorch, because I do not have a good thermo-regulated heat gun yet) to form the various parts that I want to realize in pvc.
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citro wrote:It seems to me that good glues for PMMA work on the same principle.
Yes it is the case.
I take this opportunity to put
A small link about PVC
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"Thinking should not it be taught in school rather than to make learning by heart the facts that are not all proven?"
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
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