Rainwater harvesting

Work concerning plumbing or sanitary water (hot, cold, clean or used). Management, access and use of water at home: drilling, pumping, wells, distribution network, treatment, sanitation, rainwater recovery. Recovery, filtration, depollution, storage processes. Repair of water pumps. Manage, use and save water, desalination and desalination, pollution and water ...
rip
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Rainwater harvesting




by rip » 20/04/06, 23:15

Hello,
I would like to collect rainwater from my roof and I do not know what to do. can one tell me what is most interesting between the concrete tank, the rigid tank and the flexible tank? :?:
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denis
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rainwater recovery




by denis » 20/04/06, 23:25

hi ripper, what's your water for? it changes everything!
You can make just a reserve dug in the ground if the land is clay.There are tanks 1m cube plastic (pallet) that you can transport on vehicle, :!: :!: be careful there are some who got crushed with that! it's a question of use and budjet.
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rip
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Re: rainwater recovery




by rip » 21/04/06, 00:23

denis wrote:hi ripper, what's your water for? it changes everything!
You can make just a reserve dug in the ground if the land is clay.There are tanks 1m cube plastic (pallet) that you can transport on vehicle, :!: :!: be careful there are some who got crushed with that! it's a question of use and budjet.



thank you but I would like to water garden and vegetable as well as complete a basin.J think 1 000l is a little fair.
I think a storage of 4 000l would be good but the question now is which container: concrete, rigid or flexible? with the convenience of installation, use and cost as criteria.
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Rabbit
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by Rabbit » 21/04/06, 00:44

We must see the use you intend to make and the surface of
roof available .Euhh the budget counts as well on.
For whom is the use, there is water WC, the washing machine
the dishwasher and water for the garden.
For a family of 5 person, this represents between 150 and 200 M².This is not negligible.
I built 2 cisterns, one in maconeries and the other with
rings of concrete wells. The first was + -9 M² and the other
a small 3 m².
For the tank in the maconerie it represented a lot of
work, time and money. For this tank I had a large volume since I only took water from the roofs of a
house + - 75 m² floor.Malgre this I was confronted with 2 month of
drought by years. From July to September.
For those built with well rings, the budget is
significantly more modest, easy construction and loop in 2 days.
Volume is less important because there are many
roofs that go down + - 210 m² on the ground.
In 2 cases the internal overlap is the same to know
2 whitewash based artificial lime (here the natural
is hard to find) addition of synthetic fibers, the last
layer is added water repellent.I have preferred
cement lime (XHA) because, despite the fact that
it is not true lime, it is softer than cement
and also easier to apply. : Cheesy:
The bottom of the tanks is reinforced concrete (20 cm for the first
and 10 for the second well ring) .The bottom is each
once inclines towards a bucket drowned in concrete at the lowest part.
In this bucket is placed an empty cellar pump which is operated manually during a period of rain when one thinks of it.
The pump allows to evacuate the vase as well as the debrits which
s accumulate from the bottom. The water comes from a pipe that
plunges into the bucket (above the empty water tank pump
load) The connection between the bucket and the pipe is done by means of
a lava tank machine returns, with a hole to allow
the passage of the pipe arrives (diameter 110 mm).
The idea is as follows, heavy debris (dust, pieces of tiles, masks etc) falls directly from the bucket or
they will be evacuated when starting the empty cellar pump.
Floating debris (vegetal and other) remain stuck in the
pipe arrive and eventually sink them too sooner or later.
will suffer the same fate as heavy debrits.
The water used is 20 cm pump from the bottom. A switch ds
a floater automatically shuts off the water supply when the water level is too low.
About the hydrophore group, I reduced the pressure.
Originally it is set at 3 bars, I reduced this pressure to 2 bars
for reasons of energy saving. Indeed the reserve being
of + - 10 l useful, it is useless to have a lot of pressure
when you open the tap because the pressure drops quickly
and once the pump engages, the pressure will be proportional
at the flow and the power of the pump. Plus the washing machine, the toilet
and the dishwasher do not need a lot of pressure
at startup. By the way I use a low-end group.
The only problem I had was breaking the membrane.
I think the groups of better quality have the same problem.

Since the tanks are water-repellent, the problem of the acidity of the water is
pose.I solved it by putting a wheelbarrow of limestone
(gobertange stones, kind of stone of France) ds the
big tank .In the small (well rings) I put only
2 buckets.The stones have the size of pave.

Another problem is the pollution of water by
earthworms .The lack of experience in the construction of
the first (9 m³) tank made me make the mistake of not
be attentive to the hermeticity of the connections between descents
of goutierres and the conduits of water as well as at the level of the trap
access to the cistern. When worms were introduced
they are drowning in the cistern.
To rein in water polution, I used 1 m of pipe
microperfore (for watering the hedges) fixed at the bottom of the tank
and feeds with an aquarium pump (3 times daily during
10 min if I remember well). In 1 week the pollution was stopped.
The hermeticity of the access hatch (in cast iron) has been solved
applying a good layer of Vaseline around it.
7 years later and so 7 openings later, I have n in
add only once.
At the level of the gutter downspouts / ducts I n have
What to place an adapter with join.
Annual tank visits are pure formalities.
And are not really essential but I'm watching the
aging tanks to see if everything is fine .Jusqua
now no problem. Limestone stones attack
but I will be dead for a long time when it will be necessary
replaced.

Having digged the big tank by hand (2 months of work),
I had it dug with a pelteuse of passage. It has cost me
25 € and less body aches.
Well rings are laid with mortar between each ring.
The lid of the well rings is protected by lintels
of 6 cm thickness in precontrain concrete .My tractor
Deutz 5005 rolls on without problem.
The 2 tanks are protected from surface water infitration by
a drain poses on their especially, but lower than the lid.
The lids are covered with a plastic sheet, taken
in sanwich between 2 geotextiles that cover the drain.
The geotextile directs water from outside as
a meche.The one above protects water that comes from the
surface, the one below protects the condensation which is it
also directed to the drains.

I forgot to say that it is imperative to plan an evacuation
surplus water with syphon and metal grill anti bestiolles.
Bugs of the rodent and insect genus.
sewerage if connected to sewers.

Hoping that these experiences will help.
: Wink:
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rip
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by rip » 21/04/06, 00:52

thank you for all your good advice from a good experience concerning concrete vats but what do you think of rigid tanks (fuel type plastic) and flexible (easily integrated)?

(ex-oceanic edition: deletion quote from the previous message: unnecessary! Stop weighing down the forum !-21/04/06-18:55)
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gegyx
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by gegyx » 21/04/06, 00:54

Advertise at Auchan, (great protectors of nature : Evil: )
In aerial 1300l / 269 €
In buried 1600l / 399 € - 4000l / 1750 €
For the price, you can buy sponges ... : Cheesy:
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rip
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by rip » 21/04/06, 01:03

: Shock:

I only want price but also practical and reliable. and before I start, I prefer to study all the solutions. help me !!!
please 8)

(ex-oceanic edition: complete deletion of the previous message-21 / 04 / 06-18: 57)
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Rabbit
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by Rabbit » 21/04/06, 02:06

I am not very plastic tanks.
The tank being already made you will not be able to adapt it.
The price is very high. I have one of 3600 buries, which was
scheduled for fuel the day or I'll be too old to crack my
wood . As the age of oil is becoming a memory
I think I use it for oil or I do not know what.
it is unlikely that I will use it for water.
If I remember correctly, a well ring costs an 100.
the wanted one is the 800 l per ring.
For me the best solution is the well ring.
otherwise there are the vats on the pallet, but it's not really for
bury
In all cases it will be necessary to put limestone to protect
your plumbing as well as the linen (the acidity eats the fabric).
As I said, everything depends on the expected bug and the desired result.
We must have in mind that space saving by burying appreciates
on the longterm.Furthermore a system that works by itself
is pure happiness.Every rain is a moment of joy .When I have
my first cistern, water cost 0.15 € / m³ currently
I go over the 2.5 € and that will not work out. Well do things is an investment for the future. My tank with them
rings of well has 2 years and is already damped.
Obviously you have to see the nature of your soil, if it is granite it is
on that it will not give to bury him.
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by Christophe » 21/04/06, 13:39

Last edited by Christophe the 10 / 12 / 08, 22: 28, 1 edited once.
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Aline
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flexible tank




by Aline » 21/04/06, 14:26

A good solution: flexible tanks.
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