Booster mounting problem

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fred_cbr
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Booster mounting problem




by fred_cbr » 21/07/12, 23:20

Hello, I just installed a booster pump in my garage to use the water from my well for my toilet, the garden and can be the machine washed.
But here I have mounted everything and it does not work :?:
I have the impression that the pump does not suck.

For detailed installation:
Well with pipe of 25 and non-return valve and strainer then double filter then blower then feeds.
the pressure of the blower does not move from 0. here is a photo
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plasmanu
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by plasmanu » 22/07/12, 08:17

Hello
Judging from the photo, the non-return valve is on the strainer, because not on the photo.
The pump is not self-priming in my opinion, and cannot expel air.
The water system must be filled upside down from the nurse.
How deep is the well?
And even if the pump self-primers, the filters are a brake: they must be bypassed.
Otherwise hello the squirt at disassembly / cleaning.
And a shut-off valve (at least) at the outlet of the nurse.

Like this or that: it's the same :P

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by Ahmed » 22/07/12, 12:51

As say Plasmanu, the pump must first be purged of all the air it contains; normally this operation is easy by filling the pump body by the plug located on the top, between the water inlet and outlet; this is impossible because of the particular position adopted here, but, it would be simple to screw a threaded steel elbow, so that its free end is horizontal.
This device would allow filling and purging and would then be closed by a threaded plug.
These items are easily found in the plumbing department of a hardware store.
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by Forhorse » 22/07/12, 13:51

Normally we put the filters at the pump outlet, not at the inlet because on the suction they cause very large pressure drops.
The suction hose must also be larger than the discharge hose, for the same reasons.

otherwise +1 with what has already been said above, it is necessary to fill the pump and the suction pipe with water to hope to prime this kind of pump, especially if the suction depth exceeds some ten centimeters.
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by plasmanu » 22/07/12, 13:58

In fact it is a minimalist montage (on the photo) with security flaw.
It's the minimum necessary, but hey ...

The supply kisses with the connections of the pipes, beware of a leak. It breaks up.
The standard (IP) requires a minimum distance of 1 meter: this is advice (as in bathrooms).
No shut-off valves : Arrow: if outlet leak: it turns continuously.
If there is a lack of water in the well what happens :?:
If a pipe at the bottom of the garden farts and the pump gives 4m cubic hour and the well provides 3 cubic hours and bin in the morning the pump to superheat in the air: I know sadly.

Edit:
+1 for filters after the pump.
Better the 4 bars of continuous service than the sudden depression on the intake, poor filters: will not understand.
And to supply toilets, knowing that there is already a strainer are they really useful.
Since it is a well therefore clean, obviously do not suck the bottom.
A river or spring is teeming with dirt. There it is useful.
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by Forhorse » 22/07/12, 14:46

plasmanu wrote:The standard (IP) requires a minimum distance of 1 meter: this is advice (as in bathrooms).


Anything, and it has nothing to do!
It is in any case impossible to respect since in a pump the winding is only a few centimeters from the water. I have never seen a pump with a 1m long shaft designed to meet a standard that does not exist.

It's very simple, there is no minimum distance to respect between the electrical circuit and the water circuit, it's all about the IP (protection index) of the electrical equipment used and the protections in place against indirect contacts.
How else would you do with a submersible pump? :?:
difficult to have the pump in the water, and 1m between the water and the power cable : Lol:

Nothing to do with the protective volumes of a bathroom either.
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by Forhorse » 22/07/12, 14:54

Looking at the photo me there is another thing that shock me, but there on the other hand I can be wrong.
The filter elements appear to be upside down.
Do we not first put the coil filter (mechanical filter) first in order to retain the maximum of impurities, and then only the anti-lime?
If we put the anti-limescale first, it will collect all the impurities and it will lose efficiency, right?
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by plasmanu » 22/07/12, 14:55

I misspoke.
This is the 220v plug connection.
Send 3 drops on it and we'll talk about it again.
When the plug is 10 cm from the pump.
The Ip45 standard is waterproof outdoor sockets.
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by Ahmed » 22/07/12, 15:05

I completely "messed up" in my modification advice: by doing so, it would be completely impossible to empty the air pocket located above the drain hole and adding an elbow would not change anything.:frown:
On the other hand, rotating the group a quarter of a turn by fixing it on a console would restore the functionality of the purge.
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by Forhorse » 22/07/12, 15:17

It is better to put it aside when there is a risk of projection but it is not an obligation.
If you send water over several scenarios:
- Touch water no active part: no problem
- The water brings phase and neutral into contact: it electrolyses and rots the setting, nothing spectacular but it's annoying because in the long run it often requires changing it.
- Water brings phase and earth into contact: the differential has its effect, the current is cut. Same thing if it is you who comes to touch a wet part related to the phase.

IP54 is not a standard, it is the protection index of the material which is governed by a standard (potentially NFC15-100 but without certainties)
Anyway, IP54 sockets which guarantee this protection index EVEN when the plug is connected, I don't know much about them and we don't find them in DIY stores.
Once the plug is engaged, your beautiful IP54 socket does not offer more protection than your beast taken from the living room.

But anyway, as I said, except in a bathroom or a room that would be considered as such (basically where you can have your feet or your body submerged) there is no obligation distance to be respected between an electrical installation and a water pipe (for a water point it is potentially different, but it is not discussed here)

it does not of course prevent you from simply predicting the worst (but normally the standards have already dealt with it)
But being a believer in Murphy's Law, I know that anyway, even if you put your plug at 1m, the day there is a leak, the water jet will go precisely in the direction of the plug rather than anywhere. where else, so I generally prefer to keep things simple / more rational and avoid taking too much of my head with "what if ..." : Mrgreen:
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