Hello all,
I have since 3 years a Gardena pump with booster (4000 / 5).
It works in pumping but the automatic restart is no longer done.
That is to say that as I run the water it runs very well but if I cut, the pressure increases (normally 3.0 bar) and of course it stops automatically.
I open the water circuit again and there is no start, normally when the pressure reaches 2.0 bar, the pump must start.
The air pressure is set as recommended at 1.5 bar in the tank (booster).
I dismounted the right side (box) and if I manually activate the mechanism it restarts.
Looks like the pressure adjustment is not good (old age?).
There are two screws (spring mounted) for adjustment.
- A (important spring) or it is indicated pressure with two direction + or -.
- Another (smaller) or it is indicated Delta pressure with two direction + or -.
What exactly do these two adjustment screws correspond to? For me...
The "Pressure" screw:
- I do not know for which pressure, it is either for the trigger (2.0 bar) or for the stop (3.0 bar).
The "Delta" screw:
- For me it is (obviously) the pressure delta that we set from 0.0 bar to xx bar.
Example: If we set the "Delta" to 1.0 bar, and in relation to the "Pressure" screw we will have, if it is a start (2.0 bar) a cut-off at (2.0 bar + 1.0 bar) 3.0 bar. Conversely, if it is a cut-off (the pressure screw), we will have (3.0 bar - 1.0 bar) 2.0 when it is switched on.
Questions:
- Does the "Pressure" screw work during start-up (2.0bar) or cut-off (3.0 bar)?
- How can one adjust these screws theoretically and practically (they are only nuts of 8)?
Thank you in advance to all of you for your help.
Here are the photos:
Help Settings Pump Gardena Blower 4000 / 5
-
- I discovered econologic
- posts: 3
- Registration: 17/05/12, 23:01
It is necessary to see the real system, mechanical, to have it in the hands, to see the effects of change of pressure, in real operation, but there can be problems of friction, or sticking of worn contacts, which block in a sense .
Often we get to repair, shaking, stirring, cleaning the contacts, but if it is the worn contacts, it is repeated, again after a while, like months after.
The two screws correspond to the overall average pressure and the difference between on and off, approximately.
It is necessary to determine the cause, weakened spring, friction or contacts sticking by analyzing the operation, and then correcting, by dismounting, to access the springs or contacts, to clean, or even scrape the worn contact lightly with a fine sandpaper.
We can see if we have big sparks at the contacts, which make the contact stick, melting it, almost soldering.
If the motor has a capacitor, this capacitor may have become weak, giving much stronger sparks which cause the contacts to stick to overcurrent.
It can be good to change this capacitor?
But, for the renovation of contacts, I often found that even if it works again, a certain time, even months, it falls down, because contacts wear out much faster. (especially on thermostats).
The best is to change at least the faulty contact.
Often we get to repair, shaking, stirring, cleaning the contacts, but if it is the worn contacts, it is repeated, again after a while, like months after.
The two screws correspond to the overall average pressure and the difference between on and off, approximately.
It is necessary to determine the cause, weakened spring, friction or contacts sticking by analyzing the operation, and then correcting, by dismounting, to access the springs or contacts, to clean, or even scrape the worn contact lightly with a fine sandpaper.
We can see if we have big sparks at the contacts, which make the contact stick, melting it, almost soldering.
If the motor has a capacitor, this capacitor may have become weak, giving much stronger sparks which cause the contacts to stick to overcurrent.
It can be good to change this capacitor?
But, for the renovation of contacts, I often found that even if it works again, a certain time, even months, it falls down, because contacts wear out much faster. (especially on thermostats).
The best is to change at least the faulty contact.
0 x
I looked at the pictures, and so on the left is the condenser.
the screw or axis of pressure and the small delta nut can be turned, after locating their position with a marker on the axis and on the case, to be able to return to the same position.
By decreasing the delta, it should restart.
Since it does not restart, it is unlikely that the contacts are stuck because the engine rather would not stop, much more dangerous case, overpressure.
It is more likely that it is the starting capacitor that weakens, to try changing it, especially if it has more than 5 10 years ??
It can be a dirt also in the pump that hinders the start ??
As a single contactor is controlled, the screw or pressure axis, regulates the force on the main spring which opposes the pressure bellows deformed by the pressure of the water and thus this adjusts the central pressure, around which, a mechanical assembly with second spring (spring blade sometimes) regulates the amplitude of a hysteresis mechanism which actuates the control of the contactor, so that its movement has a hysteresis between go and return, the first command the stop of the pump pressure too high, and the second back, controls the restart pressure.
The hysteresis can be less good, by friction, or other reason, like aging of the spring, blocking the restart at the mechanical level, which restarts by manual action.
In this case turn the small delta nut, towards -, can unlock, the mechanism, hysteresis, which is significantly more fragile, because a little similar to a tin can that clocks clocks by pressing ????
the screw or axis of pressure and the small delta nut can be turned, after locating their position with a marker on the axis and on the case, to be able to return to the same position.
By decreasing the delta, it should restart.
Since it does not restart, it is unlikely that the contacts are stuck because the engine rather would not stop, much more dangerous case, overpressure.
It is more likely that it is the starting capacitor that weakens, to try changing it, especially if it has more than 5 10 years ??
It can be a dirt also in the pump that hinders the start ??
Does the "Pressure" screw operate during start-up (2.0bar) or cut-off (3.0 bar)?
As a single contactor is controlled, the screw or pressure axis, regulates the force on the main spring which opposes the pressure bellows deformed by the pressure of the water and thus this adjusts the central pressure, around which, a mechanical assembly with second spring (spring blade sometimes) regulates the amplitude of a hysteresis mechanism which actuates the control of the contactor, so that its movement has a hysteresis between go and return, the first command the stop of the pump pressure too high, and the second back, controls the restart pressure.
The hysteresis can be less good, by friction, or other reason, like aging of the spring, blocking the restart at the mechanical level, which restarts by manual action.
In this case turn the small delta nut, towards -, can unlock, the mechanism, hysteresis, which is significantly more fragile, because a little similar to a tin can that clocks clocks by pressing ????
0 x
-
- I discovered econologic
- posts: 3
- Registration: 17/05/12, 23:01
Patents of this kind of contactor:
http://www.google.com/patents?id=D5FJAA ... &q&f=false
http://www.google.com/patents/US7453049
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_switch
The mechanical principle:
http://www.google.com/patents?id=D5FJAA ... &q&f=false
http://www.google.com/patents/US7453049
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_switch
The mechanical principle:
0 x
-
- I discovered econologic
- posts: 3
- Registration: 17/05/12, 23:01
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