Eco-drive, economical driving

Tips, advice and tips to lower your consumption, processes or inventions as unconventional engines: the Stirling engine, for example. Patents improving combustion: water injection plasma treatment, ionization of the fuel or oxidizer.
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binbins4
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Eco-drive, economical driving




by binbins4 » 15/12/05, 21:22

consume months by adopting a new driving style

1. by accelerating frankly,
2. by shifting the gear higher than 2500 turns and downshifting as late as possible,
3. by engaging the highest possible ratio,
4. by anticipating and driving regularly.

The result: more fair play, more safety and a reduction in consumption of up to 10%.

http://www.eco-drive.ch/fr/f_ecodrive.htm

http://www.energie-schweiz.ch/presse_ar ... 11061f.htm
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by Christophe » 15/12/05, 21:25

In the same genre, read the article:

https://www.econologie.com/polluer-cons ... ins-route/

And besides, I talked about ecodrive :) (link and .pdf below)
Last edited by Christophe the 14 / 10 / 08, 18: 25, 1 edited once.
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Re: eco-drive, economical driving




by nlc » 17/12/05, 17:26

binbins4 wrote:2. by shifting the gear higher than 2500 turns and downshifting as late as possible,


To downgrade as late as possible, it depends on the vehicles!

With mine for example, it is better that I downshift as soon as possible, it saves me brake pads, and fuel, because the electronic injection no longer sends gasoline in the cylinders.
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by binbins4 » 16/09/08, 20:22

here is an ecological rally through europe with production cars, I let you watch the best results make the 3,6 liters in petrol and 3,4 in diesel, every day the cars change drivers
http://www.ecotour2008.eu/
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by Groar » 08/11/08, 04:16



Good doc :)

From my experience since last June, here are my comments:

: Arrow: fuel economy should not be at the expense of safety or courtesy.

Tires are very important. The manufacturer tells you the minimum below which the tires heat up and burst. The tire indicates the maximum above which roadholding degrades. The less they are inflated, the more comfort there is, but the more there is rolling resistance (up to 50-60 km / h the greatest resistance is that of the tires, beyond that it is aerodynamics). Between 2.3 bars and 3.5 bars (min and max of my tires) I chose 3.2. I lost a little bit of comfort, but the car keeps its inertia much longer.
In any case, check your tires at least once a month and as soon as the temperatures have changed by more than 10 degrees. Reminder: when the car is loaded or on the highway, add a minimum of 0,3 bar.

I have my maintenance done by my mechanic, but I have been using higher-end diesel (e ... m) since June. I quickly saw a difference in behavior with my dT engine. Before it was difficult to keep a constant speed at 1500 rpm. Today he agrees to stay at 1200 and even accelerate from there. :) By cons my dCi engine seems less sensitive to the quality of diesel and I now find that it lacks torque at low speed compared to my old dT :( which is all the more bizarre since the maximum torque of the dT is at 2000 rpm while that of the dCi is at 1500.
This diesel has a higher cetane number and cleaning additives which may explain the better behavior of certain engines, including my dT.

: Arrow: fuel economy should not be at the expense of safety or courtesy.

Driving smoothly means keeping a constant speed, but also anticipating as much as possible. One way to see this is to drive without the brake pedal, ie slow down with the engine brake. You will quickly see that you will lose very little time in town since the one in front of you is always stopped when you are forced to stop yourself. For stops, give way, roundabouts, traffic lights, dangerous turns ... use the same strategy. On all cars with direct injection, the injectors are cut off because it is the inertia of the car that turns the engine and therefore consumption is zero.

: Arrow: fuel economy should not be at the expense of safety or courtesy.

Using neutral is more effective when it is controlled, but it is illegal in France (iirc) because it is more dangerous: you only have your brakes to control your car and no engine brake or accelerator . In addition it is necessary, according to its engine revolution, to know instinctively which speed to pass.
It seems strange that the neutral position, which consumes since the engine must be powered for it to run, saves on the injector cutoff. The reason is that the engine brake brakes the car, in neutral the car will travel a much longer distance, especially since your tires have less rolling resistance.
I do not recommend neutral to those who do not already master anticipation. You should be able to see the orange light at 150m and the brake light of the 3rd car in front of you.

When you know how the fires you are crossing behave, you will be able to slow down just enough so that you do not have to stop. This avoids starting because it is very expensive.

: Arrow: fuel economy should not be at the expense of safety or courtesy.

Finally, choose national roads to highways. Increasing the speed by 10 km / h increases consumption by 10%, the cost quickly becomes prohibitive. And then get all this unnecessary stuff out of your car that makes it heavy ...

My best example is a Toulouse Bayonne via highway:
. 2h55 = 6,9 L / 100 => always at the maximum authorized speed
. 3h15 = 4,8 L / 100 => always 115-125 and 105-110 in slow routes
ie time + 10% = consumption - 30%
The route was 313 km.
In 3:15 it is 96,3 km / h.
In 2:55 it is 107,3 km / h.
The speed having increased by 11 km / h, the consumption should have increased by 11-12%, or it has been multiplied by 6,9 / 4,9 = 1.44, or 44% increase !!!

You have to know how to vary your speed intelligently over false dishes and ribs to save as much as possible.
In addition the economy paid a third of the toll :)

: Arrow: fuel economy should not be at the expense of safety or courtesy.

Tip: think your car is a gasoline, inertia and gravity hybrid: you will quickly understand how to save gas using other modes of propulsion :)

But above all :
1) prepare your route. Isn't there another route that you take every day that would save you time? Personally on a stretch I went from 10 to 14 km and from 45 to 15 minutes :)
2) record your consumption at each refill and watch your score change. Possibly made into a game with others;)
3) watch your instant consumption if your car can display it to you. You will see when you waste and find out how to save.

: Arrow: fuel economy should not be at the expense of safety or courtesy.

Good ecodriving,

Denis

PS also wash your car, it will give it better aerodynamics ...
arf no, there I joke, should go as fast as a plane;)
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ecodriver and ecomodder:
megane 1.9 dT 1997: 3.8 L / 100 instead of 6.7
scenic 1.9 dCi 2001: 4.9 L / 100 instead of 5.9
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by Woodcutter » 08/11/08, 16:21

groar wrote:[...] Using neutral is more effective when it is under control, but it is illegal in France (iirc) [...]
Funny, it's been several times that I hear that ... Can you link something that embellishes this statement?
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by delnoram » 08/11/08, 18:05

I suppose Bucheron that you are talking about illegality and not efficiency?
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by Woodcutter » 08/11/08, 18:20

Absolutely, because for efficiency, I have been practicing for two years and I can testify to it.
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Re: Eco-drive, economical driving




by Christophe » 22/01/20, 13:01

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by GuyGadebois » 22/01/20, 13:11

Woodcutter wrote:
groar wrote:[...] Using neutral is more effective when it is under control, but it is illegal in France (iirc) [...]
Funny, it's been several times that I hear that ... Can you link something that embellishes this statement?

Use neutral to save fuel? Not only is it dangerous, but in addition it is counterproductive since since the injection, as soon as you lift your foot, the car consumes zero fuel. In neutral, she continues to consume.
https://www.ornikar.com/code/cours/meca ... point-mort
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