The front motor is a 500W.
These are the rears that I have in 1500, 1000 and 500.
I have 3 250W central motors, one with Badass kit.
This remains theoretical because it depends on the maximum amperage delivered by the controller.
My motor sends a peak of 1800W at 52V.
The instantaneous consumption is indicated on the display.
To control regeneration there is a simple way: FORGET to look at the battery indicator and rely only on the voltage and monitor it in real time
Making an economic electric bike
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
Impossible to send a video as an attachment so I made a YouTube site of a video where the wheel turns empty at 36V, there I currently have a 52V
https://youtube.com/shorts/mqYKDnWTAd8? ... SUzXbbaZGB
It's true that it's going to be bad for carbon
https://youtube.com/shorts/mqYKDnWTAd8? ... SUzXbbaZGB
It's true that it's going to be bad for carbon
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
plasmanu wrote:To control regeneration there is a simple way: FORGET to look at the battery indicator and rely only on the voltage and monitor it in real time
The increase in voltage can come from the fact that you stop pulling on the battery, not that you recharge it...
The first check is to see...if it slows down...

On my model, very little engine braking below 25-30 km/h...so almost useless. However, I seem to have set the regen to max in the setup...
* on the other hand on my scooter it works very well, very good engine braking (even too brutal) up to less than 10 km/h! However the motor is much smaller therefore less tangential speed...
ps: it's very big for a 500W... certainly Chinese Watts!

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- plasmanu
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
It's still big but thinner: direct drive motors.
The planetary gears rotate opposite to the direction of travel, have less diameter but are wider. They take a lot more turn, linked to having a gear ratio in the planetary gear.
One has more torque while the other has more power. At equal consumption.
To monitor the real regeneration obviously when accelerating we have a voltage drop: but it is obvious when we look at the voltage in real time.
This is linked to the quality of the BMS which controls the battery (charging and discharging).
After 5 seconds Max it is rebalanced and we then follow the voltage while regenerating.
It is certain that on a slight descent of 50m we do not have time to carry out the procedure.
But in Ardèche as they say: it goes up all the time and it never goes down... meaning that there are really big descents that happen too quickly: an exceptional training ground.
Afterwards there are subtleties on regeneration between Low Break and High Break. It's at the controller level.
In my case it's like a Tesla: it's the accelerator that controls the brake. As soon as I accelerate less than the actual speed I am automatically in regeneration. It's a subtlety of the controller: the accelerator manages the speed, while the pedal sensor manages the power. This allows you to activate Cruise control when accelerating or braking. You must then have a command that deactivates the pedal sensor otherwise the controller refuses to regenerate when asked to accelerate
The planetary gears rotate opposite to the direction of travel, have less diameter but are wider. They take a lot more turn, linked to having a gear ratio in the planetary gear.
One has more torque while the other has more power. At equal consumption.
To monitor the real regeneration obviously when accelerating we have a voltage drop: but it is obvious when we look at the voltage in real time.
This is linked to the quality of the BMS which controls the battery (charging and discharging).
After 5 seconds Max it is rebalanced and we then follow the voltage while regenerating.
It is certain that on a slight descent of 50m we do not have time to carry out the procedure.
But in Ardèche as they say: it goes up all the time and it never goes down... meaning that there are really big descents that happen too quickly: an exceptional training ground.
Afterwards there are subtleties on regeneration between Low Break and High Break. It's at the controller level.
In my case it's like a Tesla: it's the accelerator that controls the brake. As soon as I accelerate less than the actual speed I am automatically in regeneration. It's a subtlety of the controller: the accelerator manages the speed, while the pedal sensor manages the power. This allows you to activate Cruise control when accelerating or braking. You must then have a command that deactivates the pedal sensor otherwise the controller refuses to regenerate when asked to accelerate
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
To the question if regeneration works well for me!!!
Yes...but it took me a while to figure out how.
My Low Break only cut off the engine assistance, and the High Break was on the accelerator asking for a lower speed without ever returning to zero (hence the usefulness of the Cruise control which is activated after 5 seconds and allows you to release the accelerator).
The goal for me is to ride at a constant speed on the flat, downhill and uphill. Still on a reduction of 52 teeth at the chainring and 11 teeth at the rear. This ratio allows you to go up to a good 60km/h at high pedaling. And all while only consuming 200W and 300W if it goes uphill and 500W if it's too steep. We never sweat and we never feel thirsty.
I also have a scooter with just an electric brake: it’s amazingly efficient.
Yes...but it took me a while to figure out how.
My Low Break only cut off the engine assistance, and the High Break was on the accelerator asking for a lower speed without ever returning to zero (hence the usefulness of the Cruise control which is activated after 5 seconds and allows you to release the accelerator).
The goal for me is to ride at a constant speed on the flat, downhill and uphill. Still on a reduction of 52 teeth at the chainring and 11 teeth at the rear. This ratio allows you to go up to a good 60km/h at high pedaling. And all while only consuming 200W and 300W if it goes uphill and 500W if it's too steep. We never sweat and we never feel thirsty.
I also have a scooter with just an electric brake: it’s amazingly efficient.
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
For the electric mountain bike I removed the original battery from a 36V VAE which gave me around 40kms and 48km/h max.
I bought a 225V 52A for €20 with an instantaneous maximum discharge current of 60A for 4,15Kg.
This gives me 90km of autonomy.
Actually it's 58.8V. This is the maximum supported by the motor and controller.
The motor now delivers 2000W peak.
Specifications give 65km/h.
On the first try I took 66,2km/h after 500m standing start in front of the house.
It's orbiting. The machine weighs 22kgs on the scale and there is the equivalent of 8 250W motors under the hood.
I compete with my Triumph Speed Triple
I bought a 225V 52A for €20 with an instantaneous maximum discharge current of 60A for 4,15Kg.
This gives me 90km of autonomy.
Actually it's 58.8V. This is the maximum supported by the motor and controller.
The motor now delivers 2000W peak.
Specifications give 65km/h.
On the first try I took 66,2km/h after 500m standing start in front of the house.
It's orbiting. The machine weighs 22kgs on the scale and there is the equivalent of 8 250W motors under the hood.
I compete with my Triumph Speed Triple
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
The battery comes with a 5A charger.
It recharges as quickly as it discharges if you attend to the minimum.
Very practical between two outings.
It's a lot of amps so it's connected with XT60 at the battery level but the controller receives XT90.
In the end it's not really an economical bike.
So here it is a purchase of an VAE on Leboncoin from a bicycle repairer for 80€.
The problem was that when tightening the rear wheel the motor always locked up.
It's a Shimano drum brake.
I found a large nut of the right diameter. The spacer was simply missing. Put it all together.
Took the biggest rib in the area and came back with the aperitif
It recharges as quickly as it discharges if you attend to the minimum.
Very practical between two outings.
It's a lot of amps so it's connected with XT60 at the battery level but the controller receives XT90.
In the end it's not really an economical bike.
So here it is a purchase of an VAE on Leboncoin from a bicycle repairer for 80€.
The problem was that when tightening the rear wheel the motor always locked up.
It's a Shimano drum brake.
I found a large nut of the right diameter. The spacer was simply missing. Put it all together.
Took the biggest rib in the area and came back with the aperitif
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
The hill must have been more difficult to climb
At least this one is approved. With the other super-powered people, if you have an accident you just have to cry

At least this one is approved. With the other super-powered people, if you have an accident you just have to cry

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Re: Making an economical electric bike
Nope. Not approved at all. It never ends. Up to the mechanical resistance since it is mounted in 26" on a steel frame.
And it wasn't me who did it, I was pleasantly surprised.
But you're right, it's not regulatory.
Like putting a 17 carburetor on a mob, adding a trigger pot on a 50. Remove the flange on a 1000...
But at least I have a bike that goes where I go with my Trial 250 fantic 2 stroke or my Cross 250 4 stroke.
It's my Quad that's not.
Overpowering is not correct: because on hills you need a riot of power to be efficient. And power is inversely proportional to autonomy.
You have to see it as "who can do the most...can do the least".
It's for hybrid use: like an electric car in town that stops and starts constantly. On a flat, featureless route, it's like an electric car on the highway. Autonomy suffers
And it wasn't me who did it, I was pleasantly surprised.
But you're right, it's not regulatory.
Like putting a 17 carburetor on a mob, adding a trigger pot on a 50. Remove the flange on a 1000...
But at least I have a bike that goes where I go with my Trial 250 fantic 2 stroke or my Cross 250 4 stroke.
It's my Quad that's not.
Overpowering is not correct: because on hills you need a riot of power to be efficient. And power is inversely proportional to autonomy.
You have to see it as "who can do the most...can do the least".
It's for hybrid use: like an electric car in town that stops and starts constantly. On a flat, featureless route, it's like an electric car on the highway. Autonomy suffers
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Re: Making an economical electric bike
As soon as you exceed 25 km/h you enter the speedbike category
Your bikes, if you don't have the CE certificate of conformity provided by the seller, you can't even insure them, in the event of a problem it could go a long way, no

https://www.fma.fr/Produit-IARD-Assuran ... dBike.aspxA speed bike is similar to a moped. Owners are subject to the same regulations:
Insurance obligation
Registration requirement (a green card is issued by the Prefecture)
Obligation to wear a helmet.
Your bikes, if you don't have the CE certificate of conformity provided by the seller, you can't even insure them, in the event of a problem it could go a long way, no


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