Tire Consumption and Pressure: Over-inflation to?

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oli 80
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inflator on engine




by oli 80 » 16/01/11, 18:52

indy49 wrote:Yep, yeah, yeah ...
An inflator on foot is not more expensive (in Chinese version) or a little more expensive (Michelin *) but at least it does not waste gas!
And do not tell me it's more tiring! Because to disassemble a candle, it is not always simple, nor clean! : Lol:

* http://www.norauto.fr/Acheter-Pompe-a-pied-Michelin-avec-mano/Outillage-depannage/Crevaison-Gonflage/167992-NorautoSI-/1.html

Good evening, it is true that the time to disassemble the candle, to fix the nozzle and the pipe instead and then to turn the motor and to inflate, with a pump with foot or with hand has already finished for a long time to inflate its or its tires, moreover it must damage the engine at least the cylinder used for inflation

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this model dates from the 60 years I think
Last edited by oli 80 the 20 / 01 / 11, 18: 45, 1 edited once.
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AXEAU
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by AXEAU » 16/01/11, 20:36

Hello,

I have a small question about the tires M + S with the direction of assembly, I think that nobody has spoken about it, it is necessary to interpret the arrow as direction of rotation or sense of friction?
For my vehicles I reason in the direction of friction and I ride the tires AR fleche inversée. I specify non-driving AR wheels.
Are there any followers?

jlg
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by Flytox » 16/01/11, 21:12

Hello Axeau

For a motorcycle the direction of the arrow gives the direction of rotation forward. For a car the mark must be visible on the outside of the car.

http://www.motoservices.com/accessoire- ... 08-228.htm

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AXEAU
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by AXEAU » 16/01/11, 22:06

Thank you Flytox, that's what I answered too but I want to know more.
If the manufacturers have given a sense of rotation it is because there must be a difference in adhesion from one direction to the other.
Can we say that there is 10, 15, 20% difference?
How did they find the compromise between traction and braking?
I have often experimented with different brands without really feeling any difference by reversing the direction on the drive wheels.

A + jlg
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by Remundo » 16/01/11, 22:45

In the dry, there may be adhesions a little different, but nothing remarkable in classic driving.

It is especially evacuation of water which can be frankly bad by deceiving meaning because the sculptures are studied in a particular sense to evacuate the water.

In other words, aquaplaning occurs faster if the tire is mounted upside down.
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by AXEAU » 16/01/11, 23:24

So Remundo, you think that it is only when the tire meets the material and the clip on the ground that it is evacuated by an optimized form of the drawings, without there being a help of the friction as with the drawing in rafters agrarian tires?

jlg
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by chatelot16 » 17/01/11, 00:40

it's like the chevron of agrarian tires! on the dry road the grip is the same at the place or upside down

but in the mud it changes: in the good sense the V spreads the mole mole on each side and it traps in the ground less deep mole

with the v in the wrong way it brings the mud back to the middle of the tire and gets on nothing

big difference between tractor and car: in tractor we want to grip traction ... we do not care about braking ... by car we do not seek maximum efficiency at acceleration but braking
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by Remundo » 17/01/11, 01:00

it would be long to leave in a full course on tires.

Attention: the grip of studded tires has nothing to do with road tires. The bonding mechanisms / tire / ground support are not the same.

But two general ideas:
1) the tires are designed to have a driving direction that optimizes certain parameters: mainly the evacuation of water for road tires, crampon and evacuation mud on tractors or 4X4
2) on dry pavement and smooth, adhesion varies little if one does not respect the recommended direction of rotation, and whatever the tire (as says Chatelot).

The science of the tire is very vast and important parts remain to be cleared and experimented, even for the professionals of the sector.

That said, everything that is said here does not serve much purpose for everyday lambda driving.

Compared to this topic devoted to tire pressure, high pressure
1) decreases the consumption,
but
2) it stiffens the tire
3 and tends to lower the handling.

Let's say that if you want to drive eco without straying too far from a "good grip and shock absorbing" tire, put between 25 and 50% more than the basic preco : eg if the preco says 2 Bar, set 2,5 to 3 Bar.

When you have a slightly over-inflated tire "at the base", you have to drive more slowly on vibrating roads (question of comfort and preservation of the suspensions), and not to heat the tire by violent driving (motorway trip at 160 km / h in summer for example, rodeo ...)
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by AXEAU » 17/01/11, 19:00

Hello,

I remain a little on my hunger, I wanted to raise a little more the veil on this subject simply for my culture without going into hyper scientific explanations. So if you have links to documents, I will consult them.

Thank you jlg
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by moby25 » 17/01/11, 22:25

When the car leaves the ground, it's too inflated : Lol:

ok : Arrow:
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