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tararika
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Registration: 31/07/09, 16:19




by tararika » 24/08/09, 09:29

yes I build in Gironde between Blaye and Saint André de Cubzac.

do you know the society revanature?
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Woodcutter
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by Woodcutter » 25/08/09, 10:57

tararika wrote:[...]
For glazed surfaces do you have to avoid sliding windows?
It depends on what type ...
You have to look at the AEV classification of the bays you are considering.
In any case, there is no secret: sliding bay translations are the only ones to keep very good performance ...


tararika wrote:[...] for the partitions, a priori the fermacell is not necessarily a good choice, because it does not create sufficient inertia if I understood correctly.
In terms of cost, and performance, what is the preference for solid bricks, clay panels / plaster tiles?

I am wondering how to calculate the inertial mass sufficient for the living area / climate of the region? :?:
If the purpose of your internal partitions is to create inertia, the fermacell solution, like all "light" partition solutions, will not be satisfactory.
I would leave on BTC partitions if I had to do that ...

For the mass, we left on 1 T / 10 habitable m², in H2d.

tararika wrote:[...] Why are the sliding shutters better than the shutters?
It's more easily integrated into "modern" forms, but I never said it was better than the doors ...

tararika wrote:[...] For the floor, the mason offers me interstices polystyrene
with a 5 compression slab cm
a total floor of 16 cm if I understood correctly.
He puts an insulation between the slab and the slab :?: is necessary?
I am not specialized in concrete slabs ...:?

tararika wrote:[...] for the glazing he offers me windows in oak or chestnut, what to privilege, what coeff must have the glazing? argon is it essential? [...]
If you can afford it, the oak is good, but it is a heavy wood, so quite conducive heat ... I prefer softwoods lighter, some like Larch, are very durable.

We must aim joineries with a value Uw = 1.5 W.m ². ° C or less, and for this, a glazing 4-16-4 argon blade and a low emissivity face is mandatory.
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futuranat
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Registration: 14/11/08, 16:09




by futuranat » 25/08/09, 12:19

Hello, I do not understand very well how we can build a house and put concrete, polystyrene or other materials that are not at all green?
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tararika
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Registration: 31/07/09, 16:19




by tararika » 25/08/09, 13:01

futuranat wrote:Hello, I do not understand very well how we can build a house and put concrete, polystyrene or other materials that are not at all green?


If I was richer I would choose cork .... instead of polystyrene etc etc ....

The budget sometimes restricts compromises :|
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tararika
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Registration: 31/07/09, 16:19




by tararika » 29/08/09, 21:59

[

For the mass, we left on 1 T / 10 habitable m², in H2d.

do you mean a ton by T? what does H2d mean? thank you

we wish a crawling in the living room, which will require load-bearing walls on each side of the living room, which will create inertia.

For a surface from 120 to 130 m2 what performance should the VMCDF have?

how to calculate the ideal power of a wood stove?
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Woodcutter
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by Woodcutter » 01/09/09, 15:34

tararika wrote:[For the mass, we went on 1 T / 10 habitable m², in H2d.

do you mean a ton by T? what does H2d mean? thank you
I mean exactly what is marked, that is to say, we put a ton of materials with high inertia for 10 m² of living space. That is 15 tons in total in the house, in the heating walls and the slab.

H2d is the climatic zone. Must see on a map, there is here available on the site econo, it seems to me.

Attention, so that the inertia of the bearing walls is interesting, they must be TOTALLY included in the heated mass and therefore completely isolated from the outside.

tararika wrote:how to calculate the ideal power of a wood stove?
From the overall performance, it seems to me that one takes twice the value of the maximum leaks (strong thermal stress, the style a night at -15 °) as the maximum heating power of the stove.
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Obamot
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by Obamot » 01/09/09, 15:52

Little question to Lumberjack on this topic. What about facade insulation made of cellulose wadding (since I saw that it was among the best insulation coefficients)?
What precautions should you take to install such insulation outside the home? How to prepare the ground? What about the connection with the foundation wall?

Because I saw that the Bellouate® was made from recycled newspapers (see the Afnor standard => unsold dailies, according to what they say) if this is the case, put it outside, even with a breathable plaster + plaster ... it is quite harsh conditions ... especially in very humid regions with high rainfall.
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BIOTEK
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Registration: 24/01/09, 17:01
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by BIOTEK » 01/09/09, 18:23

Obamot wrote:Little question to Lumberjack on this topic. What about facade insulation made of cellulose wadding (since I saw that it was among the best insulation coefficients)?
What precautions should you take to install such insulation outside the home? How to prepare the ground? What about the connection with the foundation wall?

Because I saw that the Bellouate® was made from recycled newspapers (see the Afnor standard => unsold dailies, according to what they say) if this is the case, put it outside, even with a breathable plaster + plaster ... it is quite harsh conditions ... especially in very humid regions with high rainfall.

Hello

I know that your question is addressed to Bucheron but you may be able to accept my answer.

In fact cellulose wadding can be used in façade insulation with certain precautions.

It is necessary to make a box with a wooden frame fixed on the front and an outer covering to close the box Fermacell H2O or OSB / 4 at the place of the insufflation hole is drilled a hole with the saw which will be then repositioned to reseal the panel.

The junction with the bottom will be made with bituminous felt and / or rain cover stapled up on the facade (bottom) in the same way that we put a low rail on a concrete foundation.

There are also cellulose wadding panels mixed with wood fiber brand Feeling Wood.

It is necessary to count 3,55 bag by m3 of wadding 1 bag of 12,5 Kg to 19euro60 TTC. Then over a plaster or projected lime plaster.

For insulation from the outside, there are also hemp block 10,20, 30 cm thick to assemble with hemp mortar and cover with lime sand or air lime / earth / sand it is according to !!

We have already made these types of coating.

On my blog there are plenty of examples!
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Obamot
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by Obamot » 02/09/09, 11:55

BIOTEK wrote:It is necessary to make a box with a wooden frame fixed on the front and an outer covering to close the box Fermacell H2O or OSB / 4 at the place of the insufflation hole is drilled a hole with the saw which will be then repositioned to reseal the panel.

Yes, interesting for the pose.

It would also be interesting to know how this material behaves in winter? When we know the behavior of paper with moisture, we see that it is rather hydrophilic. Which is both an advantage and a disadvantage. This is also the case with cellulose wadding. Because I can not see the abosbtion of moisture in the material with high saturation during long months (if only by capillary phenomenon).

BIOTEK wrote:The junction with the bottom will be made with bituminous felt and / or rain cover stapled up on the facade (bottom) in the same way that we put a low rail on a concrete foundation.

I saw that some realized a box with balls of blown clay (those that are used to grow plants). The idea is interesting but again the capilarity is important, with what other material to avoid it?

BIOTEK wrote:For insulation from the outside, there is also hemp block 10,20, 30 cm thick to assemble with hemp mortar and to cover with lime aerosol sand or lime air / earth / sand it is according to !

Putting hemp or cellulose wadding in the concrete blocks is advantageous insofar as it blocks the air circulation in the event of a crack in the construction when the house "moves" (due to a leveling of the ground etc.) It is This is precisely why I am interested in facade insulation, because in this case - if it is well done ≥ 20cm - the construction maintains its performance over time. In this case of isolation upstream of the problem, it doesn't matter whether the parpings are treated or not ... it will have practically no impact on the amha coefficient.

PS: Excellent "participatory ecological work"!
I do not quite understand your drawing of double flow ventilation ducts. Indeed, if we see the principle of reheating the incoming air warmed by the outgoing air, what type of exchanger used, filters ... Why not use a Canadian well? Why not do a dual flow circuit to 80% "internal". It is also curious to see the air coming from a side close to the windows and on the other side it is the evacuation of the air which one makes close to the windows. What are the reasons?
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BIOTEK
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Registration: 24/01/09, 17:01
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by BIOTEK » 02/09/09, 13:06

Obamot wrote:Putting hemp or cellulose wadding in the blocks is interesting
Hello
In this case it is not hemp wool in breeze blocks but blocks full compressed hemp wool see the technical data sheet here: http://www.cocon-materiaux-ecologiques. ... ribloc.pdf
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