My kitchen garden of the least effort

[Moindreffor]

Impec ...

We calculate differently: 16 at the beginning 8 the arrival and we are happy ...

This is a bit of a constant constant among the potagéristes (the devil neologism) to think that 100 give 100

And you still do 16, but some make 3

at this point i think i will limit the breakage, and i still have some fallow

after yes I can take the risk of transplanting it early outside, at the end of April beginning but, then another burst in mid May and a last at the beginning of June, so 3 bursts of 5 if as you say my optimism pushes me to say 100% of success on these

good now I'm going to think about the next step, celeriac, eggplant, pepper, leek and test the carrot in a cup

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Impec ...

We calculate differently: 16 at the beginning 8 the arrival and we are happy ...

This is a bit of a constant constant among the potagéristes (the devil neologism) to think that 100 give 100

And you still do 16, but some make 3

at this point i think i will limit the breakage, and i still have some fallow

after yes I can take the risk of transplanting it early outside, at the end of April beginning but, then another burst in mid May and a last at the beginning of June, so 3 bursts of 5 if as you say my optimism pushes me to say 100% of success on these

good now I'm going to think about the next step, celeriac, eggplant, pepper, leek and test the carrot in a cup

Good luck for the future

[Moindreffor]

work of the day
seedlings of cabbages, eggplants and peppers in terrine
and the waltz of the tomatoes inside outside, day night, they are doing pretty well, it rises almost to 30 ° C during the day, and it drops below 0 ° C, at night in the mini greenhouse, so not yet possible to leave that to remains

[Did67]

Me, the few tomato plants "survive" in the cold frame. But they are not making much progress! This morning, again - 1,5 ° as mini recorded under glass and under the thin insulation !!!

[Moindreffor]

Me, the few tomato plants "survive" in the cold frame. But they are not making much progress! This morning, again - 1,5 ° as mini recorded under glass and under the thin insulation !!!

mine had spun, and by transplanting I piled up the maximum of stems in the pot, so it will form roots on the buried end of the stem, so I think this will slow down the development of the leaves but will promote a beautiful future rooting, and as I have enough, as said above I will be able to try an early transplanting this year, if I transplant it at the end of April or beginning of May, I will have gained almost 2 months over last year which will really not be negligible

the big advantage of doing your seedlings yourself:
1) we have many more plants available
2) the plants are at home always ready to be transplanted
3) the plants can be transplanted into pots much larger than those in the garden center
4) you can really choose from a wider range of varieties
5) the price per plant becomes derisory
6) we can take stable varieties and seed for the following year

there may be others

[Lombric26]

Hello less effort,
Finally, given your background, you must be able to advise me.
What is most practical for a small area and a somewhat broken gardener: make cultivation beds 1 m wide without stepping on them or else make cultivation boards two or 3 m wide and walk on the beds?
Walking on the planks seems a little unstable to me, you can twist your ankle.
However, making cultivation beds 1m wide makes a lot of borders to manage but we can add buried metal borders.
Thank you for your possible advice.

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Hello less effort,
Finally, given your background, you must be able to advise me.
What is most practical for a small area and a somewhat broken gardener: make cultivation beds 1 m wide without stepping on them or else make cultivation boards two or 3 m wide and walk on the beds?
Walking on the planks seems a little unstable to me, you can twist your ankle.
However, making cultivation beds 1m wide makes a lot of borders to manage but we can add buried metal borders.
Thank you for your possible advice.

Hello

Market gardeners are often at 75cm ...

For my part mine are 75cm: it corresponds to a good width that can not get tired.

The best thing is that you make tests before determining you according to your morphology ...

[Moindreffor]

Hello less effort,
Finally, given your background, you must be able to advise me.
What is most practical for a small area and a somewhat broken gardener: make cultivation beds 1 m wide without stepping on them or else make cultivation boards two or 3 m wide and walk on the beds?
Walking on the planks seems a little unstable to me, you can twist your ankle.
However, making cultivation beds 1m wide makes a lot of borders to manage but we can add buried metal borders.
Thank you for your possible advice.

to put it simply, I made two cultivation boards 8m long by 2m wide, which gives me lines of about 2m with an alley in the middle, I surrounded it with boxwood, to integrate it into the rest of the land, the idea was to make a priest's vegetable garden,
my landscaper left the boxwood too thick, I will solve the problem this year
so with 2m lines I allow myself to walk in the vegetable garden without using a board if necessary, by staying in the alley I can reach the other end without problem or so I go around, so basically I can access the vegetable garden on all sides so if necessary, I am within 1m of the edge

[Moindreffor]

yesterday big job
I prepared a quarter of the vegetable garden
weeding, digging, incorporating fertilizer, hooking, and raking there is more than to sow or plant
thank you to the little ray of Sunshine in the afternoon

[Did67]

Hello

Market gardeners are often at 75cm ...

For my part mine are 75cm: it corresponds to a good width that can not get tired.

The best thing is that you make tests before determining you according to your morphology ...

Professional market gardeners are often "aligned" on the width of their strawberries (the rotary tool behind the tractor), the width of the rolls of sails in mechanized laying, width of the planters, etc ... And even those which are not mechanized " mimic "the others, who in a way impose the standard.

For the same reason, why would the spacings on the row of leeks be 12 cm and the inter-row 25 cm ??? From the point of view of rational occupation of space and efficient use of light, this makes no sense! It's just that it's planned to hoe and weed !!! "We've always done it like that!" and so we continue!

With time, I manage to put more than few passages: there, where the harvest is almost daily (aromatic, salads, green beans ...), I plant along circulations.

For the rest, I cultivate areas of for example ten meters long and ten or twelve or fifteen meters wide. I plant my cabbages, celery, leeks, etc ... In parallel lines. As there is no "intervention", why circulations ???? For the harvest, either the soil is still quite dry and I walk urbi et orbi. Either it is very wet and I still have my set of boards that I use for sowing in wet soils in the spring. I deploy them and walk around them for the harvest.

PS: By the way, note that the argument of the "permaculturists on mounds" collapses, who explain that the bending increases the surface; by suppressing circulation, I increase it much more! And in addition, it is not the surface on the ground which determines the output, but the surface of exposure to the sun (which provides the energy).