So the engine (or manual action) has no effect on the mixture! And it is logical that this cannot regulate!
Can you see an axis behind the engine block? Can you see if it turns when you turn the valve handle?
Otherwise, it will be necessary to dismantle the motor, which is normally "added" to the valve and see if there is a problem with "coupling". Like a broken key or like a plastic tip that broke ...
boiler heating curve ÖkoFEN
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- I understand econologic
- posts: 62
- Registration: 24/09/14, 16:27
Well on my side, it seems to settle ... one year to make them admit that the boiler did not work properly despite the sending of graphs and files.
In short, it was enough to update the regulation for the boiler to finally work.
FYI, I have the 2.03d on the boiler and 2.05a on a key ready to fire!
Thank you to all
In short, it was enough to update the regulation for the boiler to finally work.
FYI, I have the 2.03d on the boiler and 2.05a on a key ready to fire!
Thank you to all
0 x
Hello,
I come back after a little absence.
I did not dare to dismantle the v3v, it seems to be held by two screws only.
Today passage of the heating engineer, being absent, it is my wife who received it. The only thing he found to say was that he had to put the thermostatic valves at 3 in eco. It also lower the slope.
In short, an intervention for nothing. You could teach him a lot about this kind of installation in my opinion.
I will try to disassemble this valve at once.
I come back after a little absence.
I did not dare to dismantle the v3v, it seems to be held by two screws only.
Today passage of the heating engineer, being absent, it is my wife who received it. The only thing he found to say was that he had to put the thermostatic valves at 3 in eco. It also lower the slope.
In short, an intervention for nothing. You could teach him a lot about this kind of installation in my opinion.
I will try to disassemble this valve at once.
0 x
I am not mistaken (a little lazy to re-read everything; and as I intervene on several forums, sometimes I confuse ...):
- we tried with the V3V well in the blue
- we tried with the V3V well in the red
- it didn't change much, with departures always very hot, around 55 ° according to the thermometer embedded on the tap after the circulator
It is then obvious that there is a problem on the V3V. This, if it is on blue, should recirculate the return water, with an almost cold start of the circuit. And if we put it in red, it should only send water from the boiler, and therefore with a very hot start.
It happens that V3V are upside down. Then the opposite happens: in the blue, it sends very hot. And in the red, it recirculates cold water ....
There, blue or red, we have a very hot start.
If I summarize well, I have only one track: the V3V, in reality, does not rotate. By that I mean, the body inside which distributes the water flows.
So I suspect the axis is either to be detached from the engine, or broken.
You can, a priori, remove the engine without fear. It is normally "plated" on the physical hydraulic valve. The water will not escape.
This is what the V3V can look like:
http://www.anjou-connectique.com/index. ... wwodtw0I0g
When you motorize them, you remove the black plastic lever and "couple" a motor:
http://www.anjou-connectique.com/servom ... euses.html
And we get something like this:
http://www.google.fr/imgres?imgurl=http ... 4aCh2zSgY0
And I think it was the coupling part that broke. So, whatever we do "in front", on the engine block, inside, nothing moves.
And it would then be logical that it overheats (it must be blocked in the very "red" position). Whether in manual or automatic mode. We brew the wind, instead of regulating the mixture.
It is, at this stage, the most plausible hypothesis, which must be verified first.
- we tried with the V3V well in the blue
- we tried with the V3V well in the red
- it didn't change much, with departures always very hot, around 55 ° according to the thermometer embedded on the tap after the circulator
It is then obvious that there is a problem on the V3V. This, if it is on blue, should recirculate the return water, with an almost cold start of the circuit. And if we put it in red, it should only send water from the boiler, and therefore with a very hot start.
It happens that V3V are upside down. Then the opposite happens: in the blue, it sends very hot. And in the red, it recirculates cold water ....
There, blue or red, we have a very hot start.
If I summarize well, I have only one track: the V3V, in reality, does not rotate. By that I mean, the body inside which distributes the water flows.
So I suspect the axis is either to be detached from the engine, or broken.
You can, a priori, remove the engine without fear. It is normally "plated" on the physical hydraulic valve. The water will not escape.
This is what the V3V can look like:
http://www.anjou-connectique.com/index. ... wwodtw0I0g
When you motorize them, you remove the black plastic lever and "couple" a motor:
http://www.anjou-connectique.com/servom ... euses.html
And we get something like this:
http://www.google.fr/imgres?imgurl=http ... 4aCh2zSgY0
And I think it was the coupling part that broke. So, whatever we do "in front", on the engine block, inside, nothing moves.
And it would then be logical that it overheats (it must be blocked in the very "red" position). Whether in manual or automatic mode. We brew the wind, instead of regulating the mixture.
It is, at this stage, the most plausible hypothesis, which must be verified first.
0 x
Okay, I understand better. This involves removing the black plastic piece. It should be easier to do.
Regarding the periods when the return water is hotter than the leaving water, this occurs when the preparation of domestic hot water is in progress.
I also saw that heating off, the flow temperature is not always the same. Sometimes 40 degree. Sometimes 20.
Regarding the periods when the return water is hotter than the leaving water, this occurs when the preparation of domestic hot water is in progress.
I also saw that heating off, the flow temperature is not always the same. Sometimes 40 degree. Sometimes 20.
0 x
My god, what a mess!
I suggest you finish the diagnosis of V3V to go on for sure.
If, during the preparation of the DHW, the return temperature of the "heating" circuit exceeds the flow temperature, it means that the flow has been reversed. Why ???
You would have to make a diagram of the conducts. Or captioned photos of all the pipes, from the boiler ...
Like that, I don't understand.
I suggest you finish the diagnosis of V3V to go on for sure.
If, during the preparation of the DHW, the return temperature of the "heating" circuit exceeds the flow temperature, it means that the flow has been reversed. Why ???
You would have to make a diagram of the conducts. Or captioned photos of all the pipes, from the boiler ...
Like that, I don't understand.
0 x
Mic74 wrote:
I also saw that heating off, the flow temperature is not always the same. Sometimes 40 degree. Sometimes 20.
What do you call "heating off": circulator off? The boiler is in "stand-by", but generally at more than 60 °?
Well, there, indeed, there can be "more or less" circulation by "thermal siphon" ...
It worries me less. If it is "circulator stopped"
0 x
Hello everyone
it's been a long time since I didn't have much exciting to say on the subject of my Okofen PE25.
Lately, after a replacement of all the windows of this good old longère besides we found pages of newspapers of 1934 which was used as caulking at the time interesting by the times ...... brief
therefore since this change I observe that the ash pan very regularly contains granules in the state say of small blocks of coal not entirely consumed.
before the change the P was at 18kw, I went down to 17 and this morning report a poor progress and I will test at 16.
But wouldn't there be another subject?
it's been a long time since I didn't have much exciting to say on the subject of my Okofen PE25.
Lately, after a replacement of all the windows of this good old longère besides we found pages of newspapers of 1934 which was used as caulking at the time interesting by the times ...... brief
therefore since this change I observe that the ash pan very regularly contains granules in the state say of small blocks of coal not entirely consumed.
before the change the P was at 18kw, I went down to 17 and this morning report a poor progress and I will test at 16.
But wouldn't there be another subject?
0 x
noob
On the one hand, the change of door frames must have reduced your need, for a given external temperature, in a "significant" way? I do not know if you have a thermal study specifying that?
But let's say that between the insulation, the lower radiation emissions and greater sealing, your reduction can be 15 or 20% ... Or ??? I do not know.
On the other hand, going from 18 to 17 reduces your power by 1 / 18th, or 5%.
So you probably can't find your initial "state".
But the real problem is why these imperfectly burnt pellets ???
Mine has been running for 8 years in short cycles of about 30 minutes (on average; sometimes less in the off-season). Without "waste".
It would be necessary to see why the ignition "drags" so long and why pellets are "rejected" from the disc before complete combustion?
Moisture of the pellets?
But let's say that between the insulation, the lower radiation emissions and greater sealing, your reduction can be 15 or 20% ... Or ??? I do not know.
On the other hand, going from 18 to 17 reduces your power by 1 / 18th, or 5%.
So you probably can't find your initial "state".
But the real problem is why these imperfectly burnt pellets ???
Mine has been running for 8 years in short cycles of about 30 minutes (on average; sometimes less in the off-season). Without "waste".
It would be necessary to see why the ignition "drags" so long and why pellets are "rejected" from the disc before complete combustion?
Moisture of the pellets?
0 x
hi Did67 I see that you are still faithful to the post (e)
in fact the comfort conditions have clearly changed
less cold zone the end of the longère (30m from the boiler) is more stable in temperature. The glazed areas in single glazing were relatively large without counting the lack of sealing.
I haven't touched the heating curve yet
the average indicated by the automatic cycle time is 31 minutes.
I also have a pellet tray which was changed 2 years ago by a larger one (original boiler from 2008) which goes in the right direction normally
I wonder if the formation of clinker type balls around the tray would not limit the place of the new pellets but I took care to clean it the last time (1 week ago)
the silo is a 3T bag outdoors but in an enclosed shelter and I don't think humidity is more at stake than 1 month or 1 year ago.
By playing on P, do I reduce the feed rate of the pellets?
I also remember in my previous settings (2 or 3 years ago) that I made DHW production a priority. I reset this level 4 parameter to On so as to make DHW production and heating parallel.
if I have a little time but it is not very cold I will have to redo measurement curves
in fact the comfort conditions have clearly changed
less cold zone the end of the longère (30m from the boiler) is more stable in temperature. The glazed areas in single glazing were relatively large without counting the lack of sealing.
I haven't touched the heating curve yet
the average indicated by the automatic cycle time is 31 minutes.
I also have a pellet tray which was changed 2 years ago by a larger one (original boiler from 2008) which goes in the right direction normally
I wonder if the formation of clinker type balls around the tray would not limit the place of the new pellets but I took care to clean it the last time (1 week ago)
the silo is a 3T bag outdoors but in an enclosed shelter and I don't think humidity is more at stake than 1 month or 1 year ago.
By playing on P, do I reduce the feed rate of the pellets?
I also remember in my previous settings (2 or 3 years ago) that I made DHW production a priority. I reset this level 4 parameter to On so as to make DHW production and heating parallel.
if I have a little time but it is not very cold I will have to redo measurement curves
0 x
noob
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