Insulation / pipe diameter domestic water / central heating

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DC
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Insulation / pipe diameter domestic water / central heating

by DC » 18/07/11, 07:51

REALLY COMPLICATED FOR ME! WHO CAN HELP ME MAKE THE RIGHT CHOICES?

Data of the problem (s) see rudimentary diagram at the bottom of the post! :|

The sanitary water is currently distributed in the house I occupy from a single lead pipe which travels uncovered in the cellar and then plunges into the wall on the west gable side under a window which overlooks a terrace not sheltered and joined the room in the basement located under the kitchen and the bathroom at the back of the house. From there, the lead pipe continues with a copper pipe (diam. 15 mm) from which all other sanitary pipes leave (including water heated by a Bulex powered by propane and connected to the external tank. ).

I would like to replace the lead pipe and the copper pipe in 15 mm which follows it by copper pipes (already bought) one of diam 22 mm for cold water and one of 15 mm separate for the supply of Bulex ( which does not admit a flow greater than that which a 15 mm pipe can provide for heating domestic water), so as not to see the flow of hot water collapse when cold water is run in (same original pipe under the kitchen). All this from the initial conduit connected to the meter arriving at the cellar.

1st QUESTION : Idea:

From the meter (exactly from the non-return valve), what diameter of copper pipe should be provided in order to:
- to supply the boiler (1 pipe diameter ???)
- distribute sanitary water (2 pipes of 22 and 15 mm)
- (r) bring the water from the radiators (2 pipes of 22 mm traveling with the sanitary water towards the back of the house and 2 others of 22 mm running directly through the ceiling of the cellar towards the rooms front of the house: ground floor and two floors)

The cellar is only dug under part of the house and does not communicate with the room under the kitchen and the bathroom at the back of the house, hence this obligatory passage of water from the front of the house connected to the distribution network (cellar) towards the rear, departure of the various domestic water supplies.

I intend to partially or completely transform the "open" terrace into a pergola or even a "hard" double glazed veranda.
The window at the bottom of which the main water supply pipe passes is completely "rotten" and I intend to replace it with a standard opening French door by enlarging the bay in the wall of the dining room downwards. on the terrace.

It is therefore necessary to cut and divert the lead pipe at this location or replace it completely.
1) Either I cut a groove on the inside of the wall flush with the ground over the entire length of the existing pipe (below the window, before and after) and I place the copper pipes there by extending them (towards the cellar in front and the basement kitchen in the back)
2) or I drill a hole in the cellar in the same wall to pass the pipes that travel plated on the other side of the wall near the ceiling in the room under the terrace by isolating them in a box. Another hole already drilled near the entrance to the room under the terrace (near the staircase leading to the garden) then makes it possible to extend the pipes to the room under the kitchen and the bathroom from where all the other pipes.

In option 1) the problem comes from the conflagration of the French window opening onto the terrace (+/- at the same level as the dining room). It is necessary to dig a bleeding either in the tiled floor of the dining room then oblique towards the interior vertical wall of the wall to join the copper junction plunging in the angle of the kitchen towards the basement (complicated) or to dig a bleeding in the wall on the interior side (dining room) at the level of the tiling then the "bend" under the lower level of the frame of the French window at the height of the bay extended to the ground and then go up to join the copper junction plunging into the corner of the kitchen towards the basement (very complicated too).

Advantage in both cases the insulation that the thickness of the wall provides and the proximity of the space heated in winter.

In option 2), no complications BUT it is necessary to insulate the pipes because the room under the terrace overlooks the garden (currently no door) and is not heated. Advantage: if the terrace is fitted out in a closed veranda, the heating can be installed quickly since the pipes to the radiators can be brought directly through the floor of the terrace from the box where the pipes running towards the back of the house travel. under the terrace.

FOLLOWING MY QUESTIONS: : Idea:

1.1 place the two domestic water pipes (hot 15 mm and cold 22 mm) each insulated by climatubes AND the central heating water inlet and return pipes (22 mm insulated by climatubes) in the same insulated box also) which I have not yet talked about and some of which travel for the same reasons towards the back of the house too.

1.2 idem 1.1 BUT do not insulate the pipes with climatubes and be content with insulating WELL:
- the room under the terrace
French window with double glazing better than wooden door?
Glass brick as good or better than concreting the small lighting bay currently existing towards the garden?
- the box with the hope that the heat diffusing from the return pipe of the central heating water will be sufficient to prevent the water from freezing in winter in the other pipes especially if the heating were to be interrupted or that I decides to replace the central heating with another without a radiator.

1.3 How to properly insulate the cabinet?
Project: 4 pipes (2 sanitary + 2 central heating) welded with hard copper brazing conventionally fixed to the wall by entangled necklaces and placed close to each other in an 18 mm plywood tank leaning against the wall angle with the ceiling over the entire length (6-7 m) and supported by brackets.
Vertical face parallel to the wall of the cabinet is screwed into the edge of the upper horizontal plates. and inf. either foldable from top to bottom by hinges arranged at regular intervals (less hermetic seal but possibility to open the box without unscrewing 10 screws).
Gap between the edge of the horizontal planks and the wall closed with polyurethane foam.
Inside face of the boards of the cabinet covered with Frigolithe (WHAT THICKNESS?) And the pipes (individually insulated by climatubes ???) "embedded" in glass wool.

Is it sufficient ??

THANK YOU FOR YOUR OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS!

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Christophe
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by Christophe » 18/07/11, 10:45

You have already asked this message here: https://www.econologie.com/forums/isolation- ... 10938.html

Continue down there please.

It's also a lot of "concentrated" questions, if you simplified by asking them 1 by 1 you would be more likely to be able to help you ... your message looks like raw copy / paste ... :|

Also use this: https://www.econologie.com/forums/search.php because we had a similar case a few months ago: https://www.econologie.com/forums/conseils-c ... 10369.html read it in detail to get started.
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DC
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by DC » 19/07/11, 11:36

Hello Christopher,

Thank you for these 1st tips.

I posted this message here by mistake, no longer finding the initial (how to find your own messages in the forum if not by classifying the subjects by username and then advancing screen by screen to the initial letter of the name? It takes hours to advance page by page, no possibility to move to a page of given number between 5 and 64000? There is certainly a way but I have not found better, hence the repost, I am new to forums...)

Could you delete this topic and keep the old one of course?

Bonne journée.

DC
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Christophe
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by Christophe » 19/07/11, 12:15

You can find all your messages on your profile: https://www.econologie.com/forums/membre14079.html

Link "find all messages".

I lock this one and we continue in the other: https://www.econologie.com/forums/isolation- ... 10938.html
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