Which perennials (fruit vegetables ...) for a greenhouse?

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Christophe
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by Christophe » 29/03/11, 20:44

Ok for the ventilation and the sites, I didn't know sowers, for the seeds there are also http://www.semaille.com
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 29/03/11, 21:15

For the Feijoa google gives a nice collection of nurseries on the net like:

http://www.coplfr.org/pepinieresfrance.html
http://www.plantes-et-jardins.com/s/ff. ... earch_in=1
http://www.jacques-briant.fr/feijoa

In the 83, a few years ago, I bought one from Jean Rey in La Londe (not on the internet http://www.jeanrey.fr/index2.php?page=p ... e&lettre=F
http://www.jeanrey.fr/index2.php?page=detail&nb=329
), but its production is not huge and I prefer grapes, easy fig trees (even in the Paris region, to protect from heavy frosts, easy to lay or cut, in a large pot or open ground, protected in winter), Persimmon (a delight in November, December, fast fruit, withstands winter frosts fairly well -15 ° C (a little protection), but likes the strong summer heat.
http://www.pommiers.com/kaki/kaki-et-plaqueminier.htm
http://www.plantes-et-jardins.com/s/ff. ... earch_in=1
) or the kumkat which can work in pots to go out in summer, like citrus fruits.
http://www.plantes-et-jardins.com/catal ... detail_ong
http://www.pommiers.com/agrume/oranger.htm
http://www.isolotto.com/isolotto-pepini ... 84&lang=fr

The vine against a south facing wall and a little pseudo greenhouse protection (plastic or straw) works well to heat it up a bit more in spring and autumn.
In the Paris region, it grows well in front of the south wall without even protecting it any more.
I love the Muscat of Hamburg, the birds too, there is also the cardinal grape, productive, ripe very early, but more with the heat.

Pear trees are easy and good, give fruit quickly.

The mirabelle plums of Nancy are delicious (much more if walls on feet) and start 3 years later in the Paris region. I had one and he died of old age and I replanted it.
The cherry trees too but in the 83 I have never been able to eat a cherry before the birds and in the Paris region, huge pigeons eat them quickly. !!

Otherwise the ripe without thorns are super-easy (especially wet ground, no work replant themselves) and good, even raspberries, even better.
It's easy: we plant and we don't care anymore, they make a natural virgin forest !! (outside standards).
The vine too, we prune with 2 or 3 eyes in February March and a little Bordeaux mixture in June if too wet (organic cultivation allowed), without having the productivity of the pros.

We manage to have fruits non-stop with citrus fruits, persimmon, in winter, even grapefruit in large pot on wheels, put in greenhouse in winter.

Oleanders (decoration but poisons not to eat) are easy to keep in winter (at + -3 ° C) and going out like citrus can be full of flowers in summer. They just cut a twig in the ground or the water of a bottle !!

Aromatics are easy, like laurel sauce in the open ground (Paris region) and rosemaries in the open ground which are cutted just by planting a branch in the potting soil and forgetting it. The same fig tree with a stick in the sand in winter.
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by cortejuan » 29/03/11, 22:01

Hi,

for feijoas you can find them (in France) at the nurseries of the Huveaune valley, they have a good range, you can also browse at the moment in the garden centers type 'all comers', there are good deals to be had , for maracuyas (Passiflora edulis) the purple form is found in the trade, you sow it germinates very well and it gives fruits exactly similar to the fruits of the trade. I have been cultivating them for 30 years. They support in winter between 5 and 10 degrees.

Avoid plants with strong development such as fig trees (except in pots). For citrus fruits, think of those of small development, such as clementines or mandarin trees, avoid orange and lemon trees, too bulky.

For aeration, always work in extraction because sending air from a few degrees on plants to 15 degrees, it is guaranteed death.

A great solution but perhaps not feasible in your case, it is the use of an automatic vasistas (with piston) it can perhaps be tinkered.

cordially
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 29/03/11, 22:16

Otherwise I have some potted citrus (orangekat, kumkat and real citrus) but there are only * kwat that I leave in the greenhouse in winter, the other citrus do not hold the gel ...

ps: dedeleco do you have pictures of your plants?

We must try to avoid freezing in the greenhouse by keeping the heat of the day for the night (problem not enough sun in the afternoon) with sensor of the excess of heat of day which stores it in the ground, even a few m2 of solar thermal collectors in the south in winter which heat this earth during the day so that it avoids the freezing of the greenhouse at night. By insulating the windows a little better we have to get there, plastic lining with bubble packaging ???
Hack manure is simple especially in less cold Brittany, especially with pig manure.
Avoid ventilation to avoid cooling.
For humidity, condensation on a well inclined cold window causes the water to flow towards a groove and then a pot, which dries out without ventilating.
Photos, I have to find some, the agapanthus are fun, in pots or soil, each year at the end of winter, they multiply by 2 !! in 10 years it gives 2 ^ 10 = 1024 !! fortunately at 4 per pot, stuck, they do it less.
Here is one in 2010 more fragile blue.

Image

Otherwise I have pictures of fruit trees but full of anti-bird nets or sachets !!

The fig trees are also pruned hard and regrow and so we can give them the desired size in pots or not, depending on their resistance to cold.
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fthanron
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by fthanron » 30/03/11, 15:35

Ah yes the persimmons and persimmon trees are too top! And not widespread enough! Two in place this winter, two distinct varieties and there are dozens of them for all tastes, climates, spaces! -15 ° C ... some are given for -25 ° C, advice to amateurs.

I "pube" for this nurseryman http://www.cochetfrederic.com/pepiniere/tarifs-pepiniere.html expert and passionate!
Varietal collection

Apricot
Almond trees
Cherry
chataigniers
Quince
Fig trees
Fruit mulberries
Medlar
Hazel
Walnut trees
Olives
White flesh peach trees
Peach trees with yellow flesh
Vine and blood peach
Persimmon persimmons
Pear
Apple
Plum trees
Table grape
Resistant table grape

Petits fruits

Cassis
Gooseberries
raspberry
strawberries



Dedeleco is not nice you make my mouth water with all these fruits! : Mrgreen: By the way thank you for the photo of agapanthus, it is very pretty. What is the duration of flowering? Is it fragrant?

@+

PS: Christophe, semeurs is an exchange site between individuals. No sale unlike sowing (well, I have not seen any exchanges on the sowing site ...)
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by dedeleco » 30/03/11, 15:45

Not very fragrant, and 3 weeks in July in the sun.

The white ones are stronger and hyperfacile, because hyper resistant to drought (a little less than cacti and prickly pears, or agaves) and easy to duplicate at this time (we replant), and to keep in winter under a vasistas at attic at 4 ° C, (withstands -3 ° C), without water, like geranium.

I have lots of grapefruits and mandarins waiting for me on their tree right now and soon wild plums, then cherries and raspberries and blackberries. !!

And in summer with figs, grapes, apricots and pears, it is the fight against birds (each fruit is put in a bag with small holes !!).
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hic
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Re: Which perennials (fruit vegetables ...) for a ser




by hic » 30/03/11, 19:46

Christophe wrote:I'm a little tired of replanting tomatoes, peppers or other melons every year in our greenhouse (due east, sun until noon) and which have low productivity (no maturity, late blight ...)

So I was wondering what there are perennials in fruits and vegetables that would work in a greenhouse?

It is leaned against the house (it is not frost-free) but has an interesting inertia ...

We renovated it in 2009: https://www.econologie.com/forums/renovation ... t7461.html

Image

I had already put some aromatics that are doing well ...

hi Christophe

1.
if your greenhouse is in a shaded area,
you grow plants for shaded areas

2.

if it's for tomatoes
correction of humidity will not be enough,
since the tomatoes are intended for the sun.

So you need sun,
how to transport solar energy over relatively long distances
with a yield of 90 to 95%?
You need a mirror




I propose a light structure to stretch a 50g survival blanket from 3m² to 1 €
- the edges are reinforced with packing adhesive
- in case of gale, the links between structure and cover are calibrated to break before the cover tears

In the greenhouse a mass of thermal storage (a rock)
to increase thermal inertia

what I will call bright solar
(Solar energy is transported without coolant)




(a 50g survival blanket is resistant,
if you can't tear it from the edge,
and excluding piercing with a point)
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cortejuan
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by cortejuan » 30/03/11, 20:18

Hi,

someone mentioned the persimmons, especially not in the greenhouse! On the one hand it is not frost-resistant in all France, because generally grafted on very resistant diospyros virginiana (mine supported all the jellies for 20 years with spikes at -18 degrees without protection); On the other hand, he sucks a lot (at least one of mine). Finally, I fear that it is not adapted to container culture because of its very developed root network.

But it is a great fruit with such huge productions that I once turned into a supplier for exotic fruit stores ...

cordially
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Ibis.
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by Ibis. » 30/03/11, 21:19

For ventilation, there is this pretty cool system, which expands when it is hot. Adjustment a little delicate but then reliable. To protect from frost in winter:
For example:

http://www.serre-jardin.com/equipement/compas.asp
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 30/03/11, 23:46

This system is good against overheating in the sun by opening by expansion if it is hot, but does not work in high humidity to evacuate without sun.
There are air vents with adjustable humidity, for homes.

Otherwise the problem of frost in winter can be greatly reduced by the installation under the windows in winter of an insulating bubble film at 1,4 € per m2 on the same site:
http://www.serre-jardin.com/equipement/chauffage.asp
which will help keep the heat of the day in the greenhouse.
It also allows condensation water to flow under the windows on the sides in buckets outside the ground and the greenhouse, which will be much drier.

Christophe can also store the heat in winter on the south side outside the greenhouse during the day, supplied to the south by a simple EPDM type sensor under plastic glass and bubble film, which sends this heat into the earth of the greenhouse (10 to 20cm depth and a few positive degrees) by plastic pipe inserted in this earth to recover it at night in the greenhouse, (with circulator regulated by temperatures), so as to avoid freezing at night due to the absence of sun on the greenhouse l afternoon in winter.

The collector on the south side can also be air and inject its heat via an insulated sheath in the greenhouse through an exchanger in the ground to better conserve this heat for the night.
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