Hello
I started to reassemble a 2 cylinder diesel VM with an asynchronous generator of 15kw we wanted to use the network as battery to make it work only one 12 hours a day and recover the electricity of the network in off position
the consumption estimates the engine 4 liters per hour,
a quick calculation means 50 liters per day, that's a lot of oil to fetch and decant, filter ect .. it's almost a full time job, in addition to place the engine in an isolated place, do not have neighbor, far from home it means complicated to recuperate heat .. If we live in a place where the electrical network is available at 0,06 $ per kw it is a lot of implementation even with oil free.
Already in a car, we pass 900 liters in the summer you have to have fun filtering, decanting, emptying it, with the damage when we escape on the ground, or at least you have to like to experiment
Now with animal fat even in a ball burner it makes tallow, the methanol or ethanol mixture allows better decantation of fat it separates and stands out more easily, I use this method with questionable oils
Andre
Electricity: antler grease in a generator
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Christophe
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abyssin3 wrote:No, nothing surprising, I have always seen lots of antics on the news.
The only difference is that the ones you see make electricity, the ones I see, information.
Rolala zetes ÉCHAINés right now!
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> André:
Yes the production of 220V is an abberation ...
it would have been better to recover the NRJ by alternator (synchronous) and store the production in battery!
and to finalize the yield, recover the heat (DHW tank).
with small steps of 1 hour per day this should be enough ...
in any case, now it's been a while that I do not spill more! such a waste !-)
on the other hand I did not know the technique of alcohol, I must try ;-)
> Flytox:
no it's easy to separate: you wait until it settles at a good temperature (or with the addition of alcohol): the water always ends up below when you have fat or oil, with the residues the most loaded with fat!
> Christophe:
No need to say anything stupid, an engine does not fear cold starts that much, there are glow plugs that are used for that! for the combustion pre-chamber, a key element of these "dedicated" oil engines ... moreover you forget that running in oil reduces knocking etc. cleans the engine ... for me you increase the life of the engine! the gas oil slams, sticks, stinks ...
to finish it is not a technical constraint to switch to diesel / oil according to the engine T ° C
Yes the production of 220V is an abberation ...
it would have been better to recover the NRJ by alternator (synchronous) and store the production in battery!
and to finalize the yield, recover the heat (DHW tank).
with small steps of 1 hour per day this should be enough ...
in any case, now it's been a while that I do not spill more! such a waste !-)
on the other hand I did not know the technique of alcohol, I must try ;-)
> Flytox:
no it's easy to separate: you wait until it settles at a good temperature (or with the addition of alcohol): the water always ends up below when you have fat or oil, with the residues the most loaded with fat!
> Christophe:
No need to say anything stupid, an engine does not fear cold starts that much, there are glow plugs that are used for that! for the combustion pre-chamber, a key element of these "dedicated" oil engines ... moreover you forget that running in oil reduces knocking etc. cleans the engine ... for me you increase the life of the engine! the gas oil slams, sticks, stinks ...
to finish it is not a technical constraint to switch to diesel / oil according to the engine T ° C
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Christophe
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jonule wrote:> Christophe:
No need to say anything stupid, an engine does not fear cold starts that much, there are glow plugs that are used for that! for the combustion pre-chamber, a key element of these "dedicated" oil engines ... moreover you forget that running in oil reduces knocking etc. cleans the engine ... for me you increase the life of the engine! the gas oil slams, sticks, stinks ...
to finish it is not a technical constraint to switch to diesel / oil according to the engine T ° C
What do you want me to answer you? You're always right and the engine and oil manufacturers who make the fuels are all idiots to hear you ...a fuel is not limited to its viscosity (therefore engine temperature) contrary to what the seller of conversion kit say !! Damn !!
Do you simply know the notion of combustion speed or flame speed or even the cetane index?
So drive 100% in an hdi and we'll talk again ...
The oil cleans the engines do you say? I advise you to do lubrication oil analysis for engines that run at 100% after a few hundred hours.
There is a big difference between our 2 reasonings: yours is to do turn an engine with alternative fuel and mine is trying to do last an engine with an alternative fuel according to the lifespan of its specifications ...
I strongly advise you to read this study:
https://www.econologie.com/hvp-combustio ... -3173.html
Palm oil is the oil which has the cetane number closest to diesel, it is not for NOTHING that the authors of this study chose this oil.
For your information, I knew an old 400 hp engine which "exploded" (rod sunk due to lubrication problem due to the engine oil degradation BY vegetable oil ) turning to pure recycled oil ... it was not good to see ...
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Ahem ... always the same, huh?! -) not awake?
I do not see where you see that I am always right, but I have been riding filtered oil for 4 years: I am practicing what!
are you driving oil?
Finally I mean I know what I am talking about and if you want I can demonstrate it by doing it with pleasure.
I am not a kit seller, and I never said that a fuel is limited to its viscosity.
however, with a suitable kit, you ride with any viscosity!
I knew some who rolled in the palm, in a secondary tank which was chuaffé by coolant! once at its correct T ° C, the combustible fuel is ready.
To say that EVERYTHING is adjustable, an engine is just automated mechanics. injection advance, T ° C of fuel etc ...
then I'm not talking about 100% in an HDi, I'm talking about D, TD and TDi.
I know that for HDi and DCi it exists and it runs well but I am not interested in "these engines" ... look on the ent and you will find.
FYI it amazed me that the engine that makes electricity is an HDi!
I'm talking about indirect injection, combustion chamber and glow plugs.
for engine lubrication oil, there are biodegradable + efficient vegetable engine oils than mineral or synthetic oils, there is BIOLUB 12W40 or plantomot 5w40.
FINALLY I repeat to you that in oil, an engine in its working order, because that's what you have to stick to, lasts longer than a diesel engine, that's obvious.
Concerning the study on palm oil I have known it by heart for 5 years, I can even tell you that the ideal filtration fineness is at 27µm (you must also know how to talk about filtration and T ° C of fuel).
Finally, your "old" 400hp engine (what is it to be so much?) It's no wonder that it exploded, I repeat that there are different engine oils, and that the sealing of the segments can be controlled by a simple T ° C probe at the exhaust, it's not my fault if they did not put a SUITABLE kit because there is + one, as much as the different diesel injection systems that exist, to speak only of Diesel and TurboDiesel, and not turboGasoil
finally to have heard the word "idiot" of the oil tankers, you do not know what they are focused on, they are the CO2 pollution standards on fossil CO2 oil ... I'm not saying they're stupid I'm saying that they are rug sellers!
I do not see where you see that I am always right, but I have been riding filtered oil for 4 years: I am practicing what!
are you driving oil?
Finally I mean I know what I am talking about and if you want I can demonstrate it by doing it with pleasure.
I am not a kit seller, and I never said that a fuel is limited to its viscosity.
however, with a suitable kit, you ride with any viscosity!
I knew some who rolled in the palm, in a secondary tank which was chuaffé by coolant! once at its correct T ° C, the combustible fuel is ready.
To say that EVERYTHING is adjustable, an engine is just automated mechanics. injection advance, T ° C of fuel etc ...
then I'm not talking about 100% in an HDi, I'm talking about D, TD and TDi.
I know that for HDi and DCi it exists and it runs well but I am not interested in "these engines" ... look on the ent and you will find.
FYI it amazed me that the engine that makes electricity is an HDi!
I'm talking about indirect injection, combustion chamber and glow plugs.
for engine lubrication oil, there are biodegradable + efficient vegetable engine oils than mineral or synthetic oils, there is BIOLUB 12W40 or plantomot 5w40.
FINALLY I repeat to you that in oil, an engine in its working order, because that's what you have to stick to, lasts longer than a diesel engine, that's obvious.
Concerning the study on palm oil I have known it by heart for 5 years, I can even tell you that the ideal filtration fineness is at 27µm (you must also know how to talk about filtration and T ° C of fuel).
Finally, your "old" 400hp engine (what is it to be so much?) It's no wonder that it exploded, I repeat that there are different engine oils, and that the sealing of the segments can be controlled by a simple T ° C probe at the exhaust, it's not my fault if they did not put a SUITABLE kit because there is + one, as much as the different diesel injection systems that exist, to speak only of Diesel and TurboDiesel, and not turboGasoil
finally to have heard the word "idiot" of the oil tankers, you do not know what they are focused on, they are the CO2 pollution standards on fossil CO2 oil ... I'm not saying they're stupid I'm saying that they are rug sellers!
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Gregconstruct
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Christophe wrote:abyssin3 wrote:No, nothing surprising, I have always seen lots of antics on the news.
The only difference is that the ones you see make electricity, the ones I see, information.
Rolala zetes ÉCHAINés right now!
If you want, we shoot all the time and we have more humor, but I don't know how long we will last !!!!
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Every action counts for our planet !!!
Hello
Starting 100% cold engine oil hot oil 70c is not recommended, at least if it is done regularly even more harmful on a direct injection engine
ideal for walking in oil if you want to keep my horse for a long time.
Indirect injection engine
in-line pump or Boch pump
Start with diesel fuel when the engine is warm transferred to hot oil 70c, 75c
Before stopping the engine, make sure that the fuel is in the injectors ready for the next start.
To have injectors which pulverize a beautiful fog well with a sparkling when we pass them on the pump to mare.
What you should know, for the diesel mechanical pump, that with each cold start there is a liquid spraying of gasiol which sticks in the first segments and on the walls of the cylinder (quan don miss our start in winter it washes enough the engine lacks compression) this diesel oil in the crankcase oil makes a dilution and evaporates to pass in the breather if the journeys are long enough to heat the engine oil (this is a reason that in winter goes through it needs to be changed more often)
If you are walking 100% oil it is vegetable oil that sticks to the cylinder 9pa s of compression problem, nest wash the cylinder
but the vegetable oil quan dle the engine predsa temperature cooked in the segments and gum the first two segment in their throat (it is not new it was the problem of old engine which worked with castor oil and later with mineral oil)
detergent oil partially solved this problem that's why diesel oils are even more detergent and they quickly become black)
When a diesel engine works with injectors that drip or spray less well even with gasiol the segments are erased in hard carbon, this problem is more critical on direct injection, those with chambers the gasiol remains stuck in the small chamber and finished by evaporating with the violence of the air current, the soot ends up not accumulating, it is the diesels best adapted to the oil.
For a direct injection if an injector does not spray well it regularly sends oil in large drop which ends up being found in the engine oil and it does not evaporate it raises the oil level. Do not believe that vegetable oils for diesel are simply oil there are additives as in all oils, it resists dilution vegetable oil better but there are limits.
Personally when I walk with vegetable oil, I change my engine oil more often 4000 km
the restaurant's crude oil, I heat it to 100c, I let it cool to 50c and add 8% to 10% alcohol I stir it and let it stand at a temperature of more than 20c for a few days and you rack it above the white demarcation, without alcohol the white mark remains higher.
Andre
No need to say anything stupid, an engine does not fear cold starts that much, there are glow plugs that are used for that! for the combustion pre-chamber, a key element of these "dedicated" oil engines ... moreover you forget that running in oil reduces knocking etc. cleans the engine ... for me you increase the life of the engine! the gas oil slams, sticks, stinks ...
to finish it is not a technical constraint to switch to diesel / oil according to the engine T ° C
Starting 100% cold engine oil hot oil 70c is not recommended, at least if it is done regularly even more harmful on a direct injection engine
ideal for walking in oil if you want to keep my horse for a long time.
Indirect injection engine
in-line pump or Boch pump
Start with diesel fuel when the engine is warm transferred to hot oil 70c, 75c
Before stopping the engine, make sure that the fuel is in the injectors ready for the next start.
To have injectors which pulverize a beautiful fog well with a sparkling when we pass them on the pump to mare.
What you should know, for the diesel mechanical pump, that with each cold start there is a liquid spraying of gasiol which sticks in the first segments and on the walls of the cylinder (quan don miss our start in winter it washes enough the engine lacks compression) this diesel oil in the crankcase oil makes a dilution and evaporates to pass in the breather if the journeys are long enough to heat the engine oil (this is a reason that in winter goes through it needs to be changed more often)
If you are walking 100% oil it is vegetable oil that sticks to the cylinder 9pa s of compression problem, nest wash the cylinder
but the vegetable oil quan dle the engine predsa temperature cooked in the segments and gum the first two segment in their throat (it is not new it was the problem of old engine which worked with castor oil and later with mineral oil)
detergent oil partially solved this problem that's why diesel oils are even more detergent and they quickly become black)
When a diesel engine works with injectors that drip or spray less well even with gasiol the segments are erased in hard carbon, this problem is more critical on direct injection, those with chambers the gasiol remains stuck in the small chamber and finished by evaporating with the violence of the air current, the soot ends up not accumulating, it is the diesels best adapted to the oil.
For a direct injection if an injector does not spray well it regularly sends oil in large drop which ends up being found in the engine oil and it does not evaporate it raises the oil level. Do not believe that vegetable oils for diesel are simply oil there are additives as in all oils, it resists dilution vegetable oil better but there are limits.
Personally when I walk with vegetable oil, I change my engine oil more often 4000 km
on the other hand I did not know the technique of alcohol, I must try ;-)
the restaurant's crude oil, I heat it to 100c, I let it cool to 50c and add 8% to 10% alcohol I stir it and let it stand at a temperature of more than 20c for a few days and you rack it above the white demarcation, without alcohol the white mark remains higher.
Andre
Last edited by Other the 19 / 12 / 07, 16: 25, 1 edited once.
0 x
ah yes i heard this alcohol emulsion process by bobisat ...
I do not kidney, I only transport it! it must be said that the T ° C is mild, except in winter where there for example the T ° C is at -10 ° C.
there I heat my room with filtration residues + sawdust in a wood stove made from an expansion tank ... it works!
otherwise for my vehicle 100% oil (at the moment with winter 90%) the oil DOES NOT AT ALL reach 70 ° C in the injection pump, I am not one of these detractors (I’m Joner ;-)): my electric heater (for cold start) is just before the diesel filter the oil comes cold in the PI and then dries up again.
No worries for 4 years! for cold starts, I control the accelerator pedal.
Of course I have a BOSCH pump and injectors priced at 175 bars of origin, the top.
indirect injection, for the engine oil level I have a level at the dashboard it has never been excessive.
I also think the breather is doing its job and sucking the excess hot engine oil from the surface. I live 25 km from my work.
I do not use a dual fuel kit I am part of the 1st school ;-) I know well the concern of direct injections, the best is to increase the idle and to return to diesel, the best being via a T ° C probe at the exhaust outlet, which nobody does.
I know that metheco.fr distributes this probe.
I always change my oil every 10.000 km I change the fuel and engine oil filters.
So for me this type of engine indirect injection bosch pump calibrated injectors are OK for a 100% start, especially in a sheltered room, for production of electricity + heating (coolant), ideal for generator or boiler; -)
I do not kidney, I only transport it! it must be said that the T ° C is mild, except in winter where there for example the T ° C is at -10 ° C.
there I heat my room with filtration residues + sawdust in a wood stove made from an expansion tank ... it works!
otherwise for my vehicle 100% oil (at the moment with winter 90%) the oil DOES NOT AT ALL reach 70 ° C in the injection pump, I am not one of these detractors (I’m Joner ;-)): my electric heater (for cold start) is just before the diesel filter the oil comes cold in the PI and then dries up again.
No worries for 4 years! for cold starts, I control the accelerator pedal.
Of course I have a BOSCH pump and injectors priced at 175 bars of origin, the top.
indirect injection, for the engine oil level I have a level at the dashboard it has never been excessive.
I also think the breather is doing its job and sucking the excess hot engine oil from the surface. I live 25 km from my work.
I do not use a dual fuel kit I am part of the 1st school ;-) I know well the concern of direct injections, the best is to increase the idle and to return to diesel, the best being via a T ° C probe at the exhaust outlet, which nobody does.
I know that metheco.fr distributes this probe.
I always change my oil every 10.000 km I change the fuel and engine oil filters.
So for me this type of engine indirect injection bosch pump calibrated injectors are OK for a 100% start, especially in a sheltered room, for production of electricity + heating (coolant), ideal for generator or boiler; -)
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Christophe
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Here is a doc about the diesel ethanol emulsion but it concerns diesel not oils:
You should also be interested in the BIO emulsion jonule.
Download here: https://www.econologie.com/emulsions-gas ... -3363.html
ps: for the previous posts on the use of 100% hvb I prefer not to add a layer ... you and me are too "stuck"
Ademe summary document on water-diesel emulsions in particular:
- the effect on particle pollution
- their use with a particle filter
- ethanol-diesel emulsion
- bio-emulsion
You should also be interested in the BIO emulsion jonule.
Download here: https://www.econologie.com/emulsions-gas ... -3363.html
ps: for the previous posts on the use of 100% hvb I prefer not to add a layer ... you and me are too "stuck"
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Gregconstruct
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