polycrystalline or mono crystalline, whatever it is real silicon and it lasts a long time
I am much more suspicious of amorphous silicon: short lifespan, regular drop in yield ... often poor quality: silicon directly deposited on unhardened glass, so that breaks in case of hail
mono or polycrystalline panels are always mounted with tempered glass which perfectly resists hail: the only broken panel I have seen was broken by accident during assembly, never in service
amorphous panels could be useful if they were much cheaper, which is not the case
Insulated solar kit
- chatelot16
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Okay!!
Now that I have a lot of info, I read and re-read the messages from the start and I start to sort ...
So I will go on 24V for the "practical" side. I did not find a 48V bulb and fridge. I abandon the idea of 2V batteries, because to reach 24V you have to melt 3 credit cards and burn two check books ...
Here is an approximate estimate, I am not stopped on any of these materials, it is just to have a fairly precise idea.
_ 2 12V 220Ah batteries in series for 24V output >> 960 €
http://www.ecologie-shop.com/batterie-s ... ah-12v-591
_ 2x250W of solar panels >> 860 €
http://www.alma-solarshop.com/fr/pannea ... t-250.html
_ 1 wind turbine of 400W >> 800.00 €
http://www.solar-kit.com/epages/6203599 ... -WIT12W400
_ 1 24V / 220V inverter >> 285 €
http://www.sellande.com/sellande-webcom ... 1000w.html
_ 1 charge regulator >> 130 €
http://www.solar-kit.com/epages/6203599 ... re-40A-PWM
_ 1 charge controller in Ah >> 230 €
http://www.ecologie-shop.com/batterie-s ... eries-1197
Is this controller reliable? Any feedback?
_ 1 24V compression fridge >> 950 €
http://www.next-enr.fr/frigo-gaz-et-12- ... itres.html
I haven't stopped on this model, the price hurts my ass ...
By digging a little, I could read stories of people who store their food naturally, underground for example, but we will have to convince madam, it's not won ...
In short, I arrive at a total of € 4215, it's in my budget with € 800 off.
Does this all seem coherent to you? Have I made compatibility errors between certain devices?
Many thanks!
Now that I have a lot of info, I read and re-read the messages from the start and I start to sort ...
Forhorse wrote:then 12V is good for camping, in a serious installation on an isolated site we go directly to 24V or even 48V.
So I will go on 24V for the "practical" side. I did not find a 48V bulb and fridge. I abandon the idea of 2V batteries, because to reach 24V you have to melt 3 credit cards and burn two check books ...
Here is an approximate estimate, I am not stopped on any of these materials, it is just to have a fairly precise idea.
_ 2 12V 220Ah batteries in series for 24V output >> 960 €
http://www.ecologie-shop.com/batterie-s ... ah-12v-591
_ 2x250W of solar panels >> 860 €
http://www.alma-solarshop.com/fr/pannea ... t-250.html
_ 1 wind turbine of 400W >> 800.00 €
http://www.solar-kit.com/epages/6203599 ... -WIT12W400
_ 1 24V / 220V inverter >> 285 €
http://www.sellande.com/sellande-webcom ... 1000w.html
_ 1 charge regulator >> 130 €
http://www.solar-kit.com/epages/6203599 ... re-40A-PWM
_ 1 charge controller in Ah >> 230 €
http://www.ecologie-shop.com/batterie-s ... eries-1197
Is this controller reliable? Any feedback?
_ 1 24V compression fridge >> 950 €
http://www.next-enr.fr/frigo-gaz-et-12- ... itres.html
I haven't stopped on this model, the price hurts my ass ...
By digging a little, I could read stories of people who store their food naturally, underground for example, but we will have to convince madam, it's not won ...
In short, I arrive at a total of € 4215, it's in my budget with € 800 off.
Does this all seem coherent to you? Have I made compatibility errors between certain devices?
Many thanks!
0 x
- chatelot16
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forget your 24v fridge! too expensive !
with your peak 2000W inverter it will work any 220V fridge
and the 220V fridge also works on the group ... unlike the 24V fridge that you will not know what to operate in the event of a battery failure
the current inverters have very good performance, there is no inconvenience to make everything work in 220V ... the 24V device is too expensive
with your peak 2000W inverter it will work any 220V fridge
and the 220V fridge also works on the group ... unlike the 24V fridge that you will not know what to operate in the event of a battery failure
the current inverters have very good performance, there is no inconvenience to make everything work in 220V ... the 24V device is too expensive
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chatelot16 wrote:forget your 24v fridge! too expensive !
with your peak 2000W inverter it will work any 220V fridge
and the 220V fridge also works on the group ... unlike the 24V fridge that you will not know what to operate in the event of a battery failure
the current inverters have very good performance, there is no inconvenience to make everything work in 220V ... the 24V device is too expensive
Good OK, I stop obstinating ... Everything will therefore work at 220V.
So if I take out the 24V fridge, I am about € 3300 in the electricity budget.
On the other hand, I messed up on the charge regulator, it is not "MPPT". Gaston found that the 20A proposed by Obelix was correct, what amperage would be best? 30A, 40A? Why is 20A a little fair?
Except for the fridge, everything seems to hold up for the use I want to make of it ???
Thank-you for your prompt response! I feel less lonely all of a sudden !!
I'm a bit at a loss because we will be signing the sales agreement certainly in September. I want everything to be well put together by then and leave nothing to chance!
Are there any particular technical difficulties in connecting the wind turbine to the solar? Assuming that I buy the wind turbine mentioned above, on which regulator should it operate? On the one that is sold with or on the MPPT?
0 x
Because two 2W panels produce 250 A at 20,8V ...combimaison wrote:On the other hand, I messed up on the charge regulator, it is not "MPPT". Gaston found that the 20A proposed by Obelix was correct, what amperage would be best? 30A, 40A? Why is 20A a little fair?
Moreover, if you find yourself a little "fair" in production, it is easier (and less expensive) to add a few panels to a large regulator than to change the whole ...
Two different regulators are absolutely necessary: one for the wind turbine and one for the solar panels.combimaison wrote:Are there any particular technical difficulties in connecting the wind turbine to the solar? Assuming that I buy the wind turbine mentioned above, on which regulator should it operate? On the one that is sold with or on the MPPT?
They can both be MPPT, but it's not the same algorithm inside ...
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Paf !! One more stone to my building! It is progressing, thank you very much!
And a virtual tour of Belgian beer! a!!!
There is a question that went unanswered and which bothers me ....
The 220V power outlets are at the output of the inverter. The inverter is itself placed at the output of the batteries, do we agree?
Let's say there is a great sun, a good mistral and my batteries are full. If I draw juice, it comes from the batteries ??
Is there a way to tap directly into the instant production of panels and wind turbines without going through the batteries in order to preserve them to the max? (especially in summer)
Or is the regulator doing its job well and recharging the batteries as I hit it?
Another question ... If all my devices now operate on 220V, so I no longer need 24V ... So what is the use of a second battery in series? Any? And since it would be necessary to connect them in parallel to increase the storage space and it is forbidden to connect two batteries in parallel, then a single battery would be enough ?? To optimize storage space, you should therefore rather choose a 12V 300Ah battery >> http://www.apb-energy.com/boutique/fich ... fr&num=181 ? Am i good?
Good news!! While I row on electricity, madam takes care of the water .. And according to the dowser, we would have the fleet 30m underground 20m from the shed !!! All that remains is to drill and cross the woods / touch the finger ...
And a virtual tour of Belgian beer! a!!!
There is a question that went unanswered and which bothers me ....
The 220V power outlets are at the output of the inverter. The inverter is itself placed at the output of the batteries, do we agree?
Let's say there is a great sun, a good mistral and my batteries are full. If I draw juice, it comes from the batteries ??
Is there a way to tap directly into the instant production of panels and wind turbines without going through the batteries in order to preserve them to the max? (especially in summer)
Or is the regulator doing its job well and recharging the batteries as I hit it?
Another question ... If all my devices now operate on 220V, so I no longer need 24V ... So what is the use of a second battery in series? Any? And since it would be necessary to connect them in parallel to increase the storage space and it is forbidden to connect two batteries in parallel, then a single battery would be enough ?? To optimize storage space, you should therefore rather choose a 12V 300Ah battery >> http://www.apb-energy.com/boutique/fich ... fr&num=181 ? Am i good?
Good news!! While I row on electricity, madam takes care of the water .. And according to the dowser, we would have the fleet 30m underground 20m from the shed !!! All that remains is to drill and cross the woods / touch the finger ...
0 x
- chatelot16
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what matters to you is the number of watt hours stored
1W=1A x 1V
a 12V 100Ah battery stores 12V x 100Ah = 1200Wh = 1,2kWh
with 2 batteries you will have 2 times more energy therefore 2400Wh that it is in parallel or in series has conditopn have the charging circuit and the suitable inverter
12V x 200Ah = 24V x 100Ah = 2400Wh
1W=1A x 1V
a 12V 100Ah battery stores 12V x 100Ah = 1200Wh = 1,2kWh
with 2 batteries you will have 2 times more energy therefore 2400Wh that it is in parallel or in series has conditopn have the charging circuit and the suitable inverter
12V x 200Ah = 24V x 100Ah = 2400Wh
0 x
Hello,
Not agree on everything but in general it's good.
For the wind turbine => too expensive
See wind turbine AIR X very reliable and with integrated regulator exists in 12 V and in 24 V. I know one in place for five years which took twice the lightning in direct without big damage.
Price less than 600 Euros => 200 euros in the pot that can be used to improve the regulator => MPPT
Obelix
Not agree on everything but in general it's good.
For the wind turbine => too expensive
See wind turbine AIR X very reliable and with integrated regulator exists in 12 V and in 24 V. I know one in place for five years which took twice the lightning in direct without big damage.
Price less than 600 Euros => 200 euros in the pot that can be used to improve the regulator => MPPT
Obelix
0 x
In medio stat virtus !!
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Obelix wrote:Hello,
Not agree on everything but in general it's good.
For the wind turbine => too expensive
See wind turbine AIR X very reliable and with integrated regulator exists in 12 V and in 24 V. I know one in place for five years which took twice the lightning in direct without big damage.
Price less than 600 Euros => 200 euros in the pot that can be used to improve the regulator => MPPT
Obelix
Yep thanks for the Obelix info, see your MP please!
How to improve the MPPT regulator ??
Another question..
If I trust my modest motorhome, a VW Combi of 78 (hence my nickname since I have lived in it quite a bit). Inside I have a cigarette lighter socket (12V). To charge my phone and my camera, it's like this >> http://www.e-shopauto.com/convertisseur.150w.php
But in the case of a shed / maisonette, you need a painting, right? The inverter must be connected upstream and distribute the current via fuses for each consumer ??
However, when I type Inverter 12V 1000W, I only come across this type of machine >> http://www.apb-energy.com/boutique/fich ... g_fr&num=0
Or much larger, the same as in my motorhome ...
Do you have to dismantle the front panel to catch the 220V output cables in order to connect them to the switchboard ??? Or are there inverters designed to be mounted directly on a residential electrical panel?
0 x
combimaison wrote:
_ 1 24V compression fridge >> 950 €
http://www.next-enr.fr/frigo-gaz-et-12- ... itres.html
It's stupid, it's more than 4 times the price of the same thing in 230V
http://www.electrodepot.fr/gros-electro ... a-bvt.html
a 24V fridge is only justified if you want to start the inverter only when 230V is needed (it's tedious)
And anyway for 400 euros (price of a 230V fridge + a dedicated 1000VA inverter) and a little DIY you do almost the same thing! (to simplify the fridge thermostat which controls the start-up of the inverter just when necessary)
And if you really want to squirt the smallest Wh Wh of energy, you can even go on a chest freezer (better insulation and less loss of cold by opening up) by simply replacing the thermostat
In short, buying a fridge at this price is not only wasting money but it is also completely unjustified.
0 x
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