Hello everyone,
I have a stone wall at the house which has its feet in the river: it is 50cm thick, it is 2,50 m high on the river side; and on the ground side, it exceeds about 0,80 cm (the rest is underground).
this side of the land is earth + gravel above which serves as a terrace, without overload (other than the motorcycle from time to time).
this wall has cracked on the river side in the past and has been "repaired with concrete as a joint, or as a replacement for pebbles as big as the fist.
today I saw that it cracked again quite widely in one place (part of the wall tilted 14cm on the river side compared to the "stable" part), but since when .. . mystery.
in late last fall it was in pretty good shape.
I made marks and took measures to see the evolution of the cracks.
the crack is still large enough to let me think that, in a fairly short period of time, the wall will collapse in the river.
there is a lack of joint in places of up to 30cm in the thickness of the wall ...
at the height of the season, the wall is covered 40cm high from its base.
at the lowest, it is entirely above water.
it may have cracked because I stored 1 cubic meter just behind + the motorbike + the weight of the snow which collected well just behind this year on not far from 80cm high. after maybe it would have cracked sooner or later ....
the question is how to fix a wall like this? cement? sand-lime? sand-lime-gravel? to apply to the compressor? are there any reinforcements to put? ...
here, I hope to have given a maximum of information.
otherwise I am obviously available to fill in missing information.
here, I am very eager for advice there, because a little worried to find everything in the river one morning, terrace included ...
thank you in advance
seb
Restoration of a river stone wall
If it is a macone lime wall, lime must be used.
I can only advise you to read this book for better
understand the choice of lime.
http://www.ecole-avignon.com/fr/livre/2 ... -chaux.htm
This will not solve the problem, however. You have to determine the
cause the wall to crack and tip. For that a photo
of the whole seems to me desirable to decide further.
From what I understand, I will be tempted to say that
the wall was pushed back by the grounds. It is very likely that
the waterlogged land has frozen and that its expansion
pushed back the wall.
If it is the case it is necessary to ensure a good drainage of the grounds behind the wall
and allow the evacuation of water at the level of the terrace.
Indicate the lead out of the wall over a height of 2 m. But
14 cm by 2 m ca begins to be serious.
I can only advise you to read this book for better
understand the choice of lime.
http://www.ecole-avignon.com/fr/livre/2 ... -chaux.htm
This will not solve the problem, however. You have to determine the
cause the wall to crack and tip. For that a photo
of the whole seems to me desirable to decide further.
From what I understand, I will be tempted to say that
the wall was pushed back by the grounds. It is very likely that
the waterlogged land has frozen and that its expansion
pushed back the wall.
If it is the case it is necessary to ensure a good drainage of the grounds behind the wall
and allow the evacuation of water at the level of the terrace.
Indicate the lead out of the wall over a height of 2 m. But
14 cm by 2 m ca begins to be serious.
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- Grand Econologue
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Good evening,
this season is exceptional on the rain side and you are not the only one to have foundations (or depending on the age of the walls, wall simply placed on the ground without foundation), there is therefore subsidence of the soil under your wall ...
Photos to see the situation would be much more practical ...
For what I can say, in principle it is necessary to increase the bearing surface under the wall, it is not a question of joint ...
There are several solutions to do this but basically the principle is to disburse either small end by small end, like 1 m emptied 1 m full 1m emptied 1m full etc, and in these recess put scrap to remake concrete footings. ..
In your case seen what you tell us, I would opt to tighten the wall with large metal rods lengthwise so as not to see it sag while you hollow out or sink new shooting saddles. .
But first of all send photos of the exact situation will be much clearer ....
in any case it will not be necessary to wait a year more, and especially to take advantage of the good weather (normally) and therefore the hardening of the earth which will bear more ....
this season is exceptional on the rain side and you are not the only one to have foundations (or depending on the age of the walls, wall simply placed on the ground without foundation), there is therefore subsidence of the soil under your wall ...
Photos to see the situation would be much more practical ...
For what I can say, in principle it is necessary to increase the bearing surface under the wall, it is not a question of joint ...
There are several solutions to do this but basically the principle is to disburse either small end by small end, like 1 m emptied 1 m full 1m emptied 1m full etc, and in these recess put scrap to remake concrete footings. ..
In your case seen what you tell us, I would opt to tighten the wall with large metal rods lengthwise so as not to see it sag while you hollow out or sink new shooting saddles. .
But first of all send photos of the exact situation will be much clearer ....
in any case it will not be necessary to wait a year more, and especially to take advantage of the good weather (normally) and therefore the hardening of the earth which will bear more ....
0 x
bidouille23 wrote:Good evening,
There are several solutions to do this but basically the principle is to disburse either small end by small end, like 1 m emptied 1 m full 1m emptied 1m full etc, and in these recess put scrap to remake concrete footings. ..
Do not exceed 80 cm, the best is 60 cm.
Pass 80 cm it starts to drop.
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- Grand Econologue
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Hello,
Rabbit, thank you for the correction, to tell the truth it is sure that the more the disbursement will be of small length the less there will be chance that it will move.
There is also the technique of putting tie rods that will tighten the wall lengthwise to prevent it from moving (long metal rods threaded at the end) ...
But even with these rods I would say that piercing of 80 max seems reasonable to me. Now I must say that I am not a mason but that I am dealing with masons, including quite recently for a similar problem, so I do not master in detail the thing but I still have a background in civil engineering which helps a lot;) ...
In any case in case of doubt always opt for the least risky solution;) ...
Rabbit, thank you for the correction, to tell the truth it is sure that the more the disbursement will be of small length the less there will be chance that it will move.
There is also the technique of putting tie rods that will tighten the wall lengthwise to prevent it from moving (long metal rods threaded at the end) ...
But even with these rods I would say that piercing of 80 max seems reasonable to me. Now I must say that I am not a mason but that I am dealing with masons, including quite recently for a similar problem, so I do not master in detail the thing but I still have a background in civil engineering which helps a lot;) ...
In any case in case of doubt always opt for the least risky solution;) ...
0 x
I had to consolidate the walls of my house. One of the walls went down
into the ground and dragged the one facing him. The lead-free was also
of + - 15 cm by 2.5 m.
So I dig on a width of 80 cm, a height of 20 cm and
a depth of 1 m under the wall. Then put 3 x 15 mm concrete trellis Ø 15 mm 10 cm from the ground.
I made such slabs under all the walls of the house. The tiles are
separated by a meter.
It took me almost a year to complete this work. Since then it hasn't moved.
When we dig and realize that the earth becomes more
hard is that it is urgent to stop.
into the ground and dragged the one facing him. The lead-free was also
of + - 15 cm by 2.5 m.
So I dig on a width of 80 cm, a height of 20 cm and
a depth of 1 m under the wall. Then put 3 x 15 mm concrete trellis Ø 15 mm 10 cm from the ground.
I made such slabs under all the walls of the house. The tiles are
separated by a meter.
It took me almost a year to complete this work. Since then it hasn't moved.
When we dig and realize that the earth becomes more
hard is that it is urgent to stop.
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- Grand Econologue
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- Registration: 21/06/09, 01:02
- Location: Britain BZH powaaa
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Re,
er Rabbit what is important in the history also it is the surface of bearing not so much the thickness of the sole that you will add ....
You may have a loose soil if your support surface is sufficient there will be no differential punching (depression of the ground by punching).
So to say that it has to be dug on 1 M high does not seem to me really justified here without knowing the nature of the soil.
It is possible to do some tests without going through a design office with coring, by searching a little on the net have found ways to do it.
example here:
http://www.cours-genie-civil.com/
more exactly here:
http://www.cours-genie-civil.com/IMG/pd ... uction.pdf
er Rabbit what is important in the history also it is the surface of bearing not so much the thickness of the sole that you will add ....
You may have a loose soil if your support surface is sufficient there will be no differential punching (depression of the ground by punching).
So to say that it has to be dug on 1 M high does not seem to me really justified here without knowing the nature of the soil.
It is possible to do some tests without going through a design office with coring, by searching a little on the net have found ways to do it.
example here:
http://www.cours-genie-civil.com/
more exactly here:
http://www.cours-genie-civil.com/IMG/pd ... uction.pdf
0 x
bidouille23 wrote:So to say that it has to be dug on 1 M high does not seem to me really justified here without knowing the nature of the soil
Forgive me, I misspoke.
The floor area of the tiles is 80 cm x 1m, the thickness of the tile is 20 cm.
In my case the ground is clay which is soaked with water during heavy rains
as well as during fall and winter. What suits nothing is that a
road below runs along the building 50 cm from the foundations. Moreover
a very frequent national road runs along the main facade of the building.
I must add that originally there was no cellar. So I have
hollow a ventilated void with a slice in the center of 1m wide
and + - 2.20m deep. I did this to dry the ground thanks to
vacuum ventilation. I have however taken care that the clay
stays moist to avoid ground movement.
With the information (I didn't have internet yet) that I had
l epoque (15 years ago) I think I did for a better.
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- chatelot16
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you have to see how important this wall is ... if there is no danger the best is to do nothing ... and if one day it falls do it again more solidly
if the fall of this wall is dangerous, a solution must be found: the simplest is often to dismantle it and rebuild it thicker more solid
now concrete is cheaper than well-cemented stone masonry ... so we can prefer to put visible stone on the facing and put loose concrete behind
air lime is not worth anything when there is water permanently ... hydraulic lime is an ancestor of cement, but without interest for this kind of work: therefore it is the cheapest normal concrete and the most solid
if the fall of this wall is dangerous, a solution must be found: the simplest is often to dismantle it and rebuild it thicker more solid
now concrete is cheaper than well-cemented stone masonry ... so we can prefer to put visible stone on the facing and put loose concrete behind
air lime is not worth anything when there is water permanently ... hydraulic lime is an ancestor of cement, but without interest for this kind of work: therefore it is the cheapest normal concrete and the most solid
Last edited by chatelot16 the 13 / 04 / 13, 01: 39, 1 edited once.
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