Heated floor renovation notice

[Christophe]

Tigger a member of forum renovated his house a few years ago, he laid a thin screed: https://www.econologie.com/une-maison-so ... -3789.html

Here is the section on heated floors: https://www.econologie.com/maison-electr ... -3779.html

Cost of work for partitions and underfloor heating

The total cost of this work is around 2000 € for circulator, thermal probe, 8/6 and 14/16 pipes, fittings, support and pc insulation and leveling. All the workforce is obviously "house".

[Forhorse]

There is nothing particularly technical in a heated floor.
Equipment sellers / installers are trying to trick you into thinking you need to do a study to figure out what length of pipe to lay. The reality is that there is more or less a standard spacing of the pipes and that suddenly we put mostly everything we can.

Then you just have to be careful to sort the level screed.

[BobFuck]

Yes after must still be a handyman GOOD. It's still cheaper ok, but do know to do is not simply as a floating floor. But it remains a possibility indeed.

In fact it's really not the most technical or complicated thing in a renovation ... it's easier than sticking plaster ... you take them slabs, with or without studs, the studded tiles are made of polystyrene, I prefer those without studs which are made of PIR which, more resistant over time. It cuts very easily.

After you put them tubing, a pro will do it in PER of 16, not BAO if you are not behind to monitor, for less you do it in PER of 20 which allows a much lower T ° ... laying the pipes is boring (must be kneeling) but easy. You can rent a stapler or tie them on a mesh, the stapler is of course much faster!

To unwind the hose, put the reel on a board that turns on an axis with 4 casters underneath and an assistant. And above all you have to send hot water at 60 ° C or higher, the hose becomes soft, easy to maneuver without
fuck him in the turns.

> Afterwards, you just need to be careful to sort the level screed.

For that bring a screed color, with an anhydrite screed, it's not expensive, and it's straight. Pouring concrete on the other hand I would not do it again, too boring, too long, too little saving.

[Did67]

I share this opinion.

Two or three tips:

a) of course, no "connection" in a slab; always come back to the nanny

b) in fact, avoid any fold that weakens the duct; you need "hands" and be a little cool ...

c) a tip: if you fix on a trellis (this is the case with me); follow the wires with your PER, take pictures taken from all angles (watch out for hidden or dark corners!); if in 10 years you want to fix a partition, a sliding door, what do I know, you will know exactly where to drill without risk with just your photo album and the lattice which makes "squared paper" !!! (attention: there is a good chance that it is in a corner! hence my remark above to photograph the corners well!)

d) know that your regulation will regulate your heating anyway; rather draw a few turns too much, your PC will heat up at lower temperature, which increases the efficiency of your boiler (condensing) and will be more comfortable. In other words, "who can do more can do less"; a few rolls, it's peanuts in the total cost price if you do it yourself and with the regulation properly adjusted, it will never overheat (the temperature of the circuit will be lower)!

e) Be aware that PCs do not "modulate" easily due to inertia; it can be sioux to make two or three "groups" of circuits (the "living rooms during the day", the "night rooms", the areas to be overheated - bathrooms) which end in 3 collectors, each with a regulation clean ! To think about, because you also need a circulator + 1 3-way valve per "group".

Well, that makes 4 or 5 tips finally, for the same price!

[chatelot16]

photograph everything! very good advice which should also be imposed on the professional for all that is hidden

before the digital camera it would have been necessary to make plans and note everything ... nobody took the time to do it ... but now a digital camera costs a ridiculous price! there is no reason to deny it

[Philippe Schutt]

with dry PCs we no longer need 10 cm, 5 cm is enough, and in addition there is very little inertia.

[sspid14]

For me it is not as simple as you say even if it remains feasible for everyone who knows a little.
It's not just putting the insulation, stapling the pipe and putting the screed.
It is also necessary to provide for expansion joints, edge insulation. And above all, plan in advance where the different circuits are going to be placed (either by taking the plan of the house yourself and estimating, or by having an installation plan made by the professional) because the circuits must not exceed one some pressure drop (a 200m circuit is far too much !!) and once you unroll the circuits, don't ask yourself "ha, I still have to put this circuit there but I have to go over the one again there ... well, I start again ... ", etc ...
It is also necessary to place the collector and to be able to adjust this collector (like the radiators for that matter but few people do it)
There are so-called "secondary" regulations that work like a thermostatic valve, ie it calculates the T ° and adapts the pressure drop to send more or less hot water to a particular circuit.

Those who complain about underfloor heating are either those who placed it more than 10 years ago and where the installation pitch was too high and where water is sent at 60 ° C -> T ° of high slab and swelling feet, or someone who did it anyhow (without regulation, without adjustment, ...)

Now, with a minimum of isolated houses, appropriate regulation and correct installation steps -> Floor T ° ok -> very pleasant comfort and uniform ambient T ° by radiation from the slab + energy saving with condensing boiler or pump heat. On the other hand, there is less savings by night reduction (not recommended).

If I could, at home I would have put underfloor heating ...

[sspid14]

with dry PCs we no longer need 10 cm, 5 cm is enough, and in addition there is very little inertia.

Indeed, there are PCs with a lower total height like a dry system (there are others like the R50 system from schutz) but often more expensive.

The trellis system is not cheap either.

[Philippe Schutt]

Not much more expensive, after all.
Rehau and caleosol have metallic diffusers and possibly no liquid screed at all.

[Regismu]

Hello

I think you take the problem backwards ...

already think about efficient insulation instead of thinking about heating and rather than investing in an expensive heating system for installation / investment, maintenance and use .. invest in efficient / well thought-out insulation. in particular the insulation by the exterior during a facelift of the facade by exmpel .. and keep your radiators .. because you can always do a small photovoltaic installation thereafter to cover a part of your needs during the day that you will not be able to never do with another energy

so reduce your needs by insulating ..and after think backup heating for exceptional cases .. in addition by insulating you treat the cold but also el hot and acoustics.