Here is a recording with the USB key I mentioned above.
It was on May 1 week end, so just after the work.
The% RH inexorably rises. I will repeat a long-term measure to see where ca is now.
T ° and the dew point (dew point) are very close risk of condensation = ...
cellar humidity: Waterproof SikaLite, Rectavit or Aquaplan?
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- Philippe Schutt
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especially not cover with soil, she sought to avoid since it swells with water. Pavers take plastic. The sand should go down (I just badly drawn), it must prevent the soil to pass between the stones and plastic.
it is not worth a real drain that goes down to the footing, especially if the ground is sloping towards the house, the water goes below.
Christophe's terrace should get the same result, although seen the depth of basement ... and its drain to be clogged or it was not done correctly, because normally it's radical. We did one on a hillside at home and we have never had water. But hey, we dug one week.
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Philippe Schutt wrote:Christophe's terrace should get the same result, although seen the depth of basement ... and its drain to be clogged or it was not done correctly, because normally it's radical. We did one on a hillside at home and we have never had water. But hey, we dug one week.
Ben terrace is not great either state, the pavement which took frost, some tiles are long gone ...
I guess the screed must have also suffered.
So when we have redone it (one day) and especially enlarged (wider) it should improve things (if by then I have not solved the problem "internally") ... unless it is a real rise (source?) ... and there apart from calling Superman (or super mole ...) I see no "easy" solution
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Here I have the pictures!
In fact, on the aquaplan it's not that bad, and I presume that a majority of the humidity actually comes from the condensation because it "bumps" (which means that the drops do not penetrate in the wall and therefore it is waterproof) ... but rather see, it's quite difficult to take pictures of the humidity so I tried to do the best ...
white side (wall): Aquaplan is a semi buried wall: from left to right it goes starting from the slab foundation of about 1.5 m ground 3m.
brown side (south wall): Hydraulic mortar, the wall is completely entérré, 4m about, there is tarmac (used) + gutter + terrace on the ground outside the lond of that wall.
A) AQUAPLAN
At the bottom on the left ca "pearl" but the untreated breeze blocks at the top are apparently dry:
Zoom :
Where it does not "pearl", it is still very wet (not everywhere but in certain places there is a "layer" of humidity):
Polystyrene "test" to see if it condenses or not ...
It also pearl on the test polystytère proving that this is the internal condensation, at least in part!
B) HYDRAULIC MORTAR
Side leveling is less good (the wall 4m underground), 70% of the surface is wet but the most difficult conditons are also:
Then condensation or leakage? Mystery!
I have 2 "micro sources" that worry me and that I had not before ... I can mop up it comes back. I had tried to "call" them with scraps but without success: the mortar probably did not have time to dry!
And this I highly doubt that it comes only from the condensation ... and if it's not the rain it is a source that dates and AC is not good ... but what? A double sealed wall?
Clarification: before putting the mortar, there was not this "puddle", I presume that everything went up by capillarity in the wall ...
In fact, on the aquaplan it's not that bad, and I presume that a majority of the humidity actually comes from the condensation because it "bumps" (which means that the drops do not penetrate in the wall and therefore it is waterproof) ... but rather see, it's quite difficult to take pictures of the humidity so I tried to do the best ...
white side (wall): Aquaplan is a semi buried wall: from left to right it goes starting from the slab foundation of about 1.5 m ground 3m.
brown side (south wall): Hydraulic mortar, the wall is completely entérré, 4m about, there is tarmac (used) + gutter + terrace on the ground outside the lond of that wall.
A) AQUAPLAN
At the bottom on the left ca "pearl" but the untreated breeze blocks at the top are apparently dry:
Zoom :
Where it does not "pearl", it is still very wet (not everywhere but in certain places there is a "layer" of humidity):
Polystyrene "test" to see if it condenses or not ...
It also pearl on the test polystytère proving that this is the internal condensation, at least in part!
B) HYDRAULIC MORTAR
Side leveling is less good (the wall 4m underground), 70% of the surface is wet but the most difficult conditons are also:
Then condensation or leakage? Mystery!
I have 2 "micro sources" that worry me and that I had not before ... I can mop up it comes back. I had tried to "call" them with scraps but without success: the mortar probably did not have time to dry!
And this I highly doubt that it comes only from the condensation ... and if it's not the rain it is a source that dates and AC is not good ... but what? A double sealed wall?
Clarification: before putting the mortar, there was not this "puddle", I presume that everything went up by capillarity in the wall ...
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Winter is coming "fast" and especially because our bottles of spinach stored in the room have started to mold, I got back to this "site"! I have had a current measurement curve for several weeks. I'll pass it later.
A) I went twice on the "brown" wall with hydraulic mortar to block "suspect" places (darker than others).
It seems to have brought fruit.
B) Following your suggestion, I attacked, from "the top" and the situation was much worse than I thought and therefore the potential improvements were significant. To sum up:
- in addition to the macadam in bad condition, the gutter was "blocked and cracked"
- There was a slope problem (central sag) of the gutter stagnant water = = dross (see photo) = not good at all!
Mea Culpa, next time I listen to you soon !! And I would not hurt bacon head, I was sure that the gutter was a good ... I was wrong!
But rather see pictures (before surgery):
So work done:
a) cleaning dirt
b) hydraulic concrete pouring into the gutter to enhance and avoid standing water and sealing of cracks jointing.
c) clogging (coarse) macadam (it will change in a few years so not worth doing a thing nikel)
By 2 or 3 weeks I would do a checkup in the basement to see if it gets better. A priori ca seems to work much better!
Wait & See ... I should therefore, a priori, change my rather negative judgment on hydraulic mortar.
Remember the lesson of this little experiment: treat water penetration and air leakage before EVERYTHING ELSE (even the insulation is less important than the leaks) My only regret putting 2 year and a half to do it in my case !!!
A) I went twice on the "brown" wall with hydraulic mortar to block "suspect" places (darker than others).
It seems to have brought fruit.
B) Following your suggestion, I attacked, from "the top" and the situation was much worse than I thought and therefore the potential improvements were significant. To sum up:
- in addition to the macadam in bad condition, the gutter was "blocked and cracked"
- There was a slope problem (central sag) of the gutter stagnant water = = dross (see photo) = not good at all!
Mea Culpa, next time I listen to you soon !! And I would not hurt bacon head, I was sure that the gutter was a good ... I was wrong!
But rather see pictures (before surgery):
So work done:
a) cleaning dirt
b) hydraulic concrete pouring into the gutter to enhance and avoid standing water and sealing of cracks jointing.
c) clogging (coarse) macadam (it will change in a few years so not worth doing a thing nikel)
By 2 or 3 weeks I would do a checkup in the basement to see if it gets better. A priori ca seems to work much better!
Wait & See ... I should therefore, a priori, change my rather negative judgment on hydraulic mortar.
Remember the lesson of this little experiment: treat water penetration and air leakage before EVERYTHING ELSE (even the insulation is less important than the leaks) My only regret putting 2 year and a half to do it in my case !!!
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Here I think it is "finished" for this year. I managed to stabilize the moisture towards 85%... (99% before work and after work stage 1ere)!
There is no longer any trace of moisture in the soil (clay / concrete). here we vera few months is how it behaves.
Here are the latest long-term records for the work:
1ere period: in the wine cellar (the room where the treatment is applied)
2ieme period: the room crawlspace next (the difference we can see)
3ieme period: in the cellar again with wine dehumidification on (work being finished).
The main difference between the 1ere and 3ieme period is at the level of the dew curve: there is no more condensation whereas during the 1ere period there were some! This is a considerable advantage for a thermally !!
I have not the statement after completion.
There is no longer any trace of moisture in the soil (clay / concrete). here we vera few months is how it behaves.
Here are the latest long-term records for the work:
1ere period: in the wine cellar (the room where the treatment is applied)
2ieme period: the room crawlspace next (the difference we can see)
3ieme period: in the cellar again with wine dehumidification on (work being finished).
The main difference between the 1ere and 3ieme period is at the level of the dew curve: there is no more condensation whereas during the 1ere period there were some! This is a considerable advantage for a thermally !!
I have not the statement after completion.
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And after 5 years, what results?
5 years have passed and he clenched interesting to have a feedback, and changes, improvements.
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- I discovered econologic
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And now ?
After 5 years, I, like others probably will be to have information on the results obtained have various products knowing that the causes of infiltration was identified and repaired.
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hi Christophe
How do you explain the 17 ° of your wine cellar,
and in the neighboring crawlspace?
Curious!
a buried cellar cellar is the soil temperature 15 °
if it is isolated from the rest of the cellar
How do you explain the 17 ° of your wine cellar,
and in the neighboring crawlspace?
Curious!
a buried cellar cellar is the soil temperature 15 °
if it is isolated from the rest of the cellar
Christophe wrote:Here I think it is "finished" for this year. I managed to stabilize the moisture towards 85%... (99% before work and after work stage 1ere)!
There is no longer any trace of moisture in the soil (clay / concrete). here we vera few months is how it behaves.
Here are the latest long-term records for the work:
1ere period: in the wine cellar (the room where the treatment is applied)
2ieme period: the room crawlspace next (the difference we can see)
3ieme period: in the cellar again with wine dehumidification on (work being finished).
The main difference between the 1ere and 3ieme period is at the level of the dew curve: there is no more condensation whereas during the 1ere period there were some! This is a considerable advantage for a thermally !!
I have not the statement after completion.
0 x
"Let food be thy medicine and thy medicine be thy food" Hippocrates
"Everything has a price has no value" Nietzche
Torture for Dummies
Forbid to express the idea that the field is acceleration (magnetic and gravitational)
And you get your patent mental torture option executioner successfully
"Everything has a price has no value" Nietzche
Torture for Dummies
Forbid to express the idea that the field is acceleration (magnetic and gravitational)
And you get your patent mental torture option executioner successfully
- chatelot16
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there is not a fear that your cement mortar was not dry
the cement does not need to dry, it is capable of hardening under water
the problem is rather that the cement is not elastic and thin film there is always too much to crack leak
Sikalite improves the sealing of the cement, but does not avoid the crack ... there is another aditive in Sika: the Sikalatex: it is more expensive than the Sikalite but gives the mortar more elasticity and adherence
see the ground too ... if you want to prevent moisture back which does not pass through the wall will go through the floor ... we must turn this underwater cave in
the cement does not need to dry, it is capable of hardening under water
the problem is rather that the cement is not elastic and thin film there is always too much to crack leak
Sikalite improves the sealing of the cement, but does not avoid the crack ... there is another aditive in Sika: the Sikalatex: it is more expensive than the Sikalite but gives the mortar more elasticity and adherence
see the ground too ... if you want to prevent moisture back which does not pass through the wall will go through the floor ... we must turn this underwater cave in
0 x
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