How to isolate a stone wall from the inside

[Capt_Maloche]

Well, that makes answers for a little topic like this
must be lost the Manny

In short, old stones must breathe because capillary upwellings are common in wet periods, unless major renovation work is planned with the reworking, which does not seem to be the case

So, the only possible insulation is a ventilated lining inside or outside (with small grilles at the top and bottom of the doublings), a rigid insulation of the type of rockwool if you prefer

there will always be a risk of condensation on the cold walls.

Otherwise, you can not double at all, and heat with a heated floor to fight against cold walls, certainly it is not economical, but comfortable.

By the way Manny, no pictures?

[Obamot]

Do not think that by insulating we will end up with a house of the XXVIIIth which will become so easily "passivated"!

The buildings of the time were planned to make more or less violent outbreaks in the fireplace just the sun. Then the walls were stored, without any consideration being given to the loss of heat outside!

To think that we will recreate such conditions by insulating "from the inside" is a heresy ... So quite simply, the walls were not "designed for". Because not only the walls must breathe, but we must also let them "live their life" ...

Nevertheless, to do this type of rehabilitation, it is expensive (see the renovations of historical monuments). There is a whole range of problems that can arise and arise (even during the works). And it is quite reasonable to say that without knowing all the elements of the equation of the case to be dealt with, one can hardly have a definite opinion.

If I had such a construction "in inheritance" (or knowingly bought one "to hurt myself") the first thing that I would do (apart from the routine checks) is that I will bring a hygrometer and a laser thermocolorimeter ... Then I will "map" the facades to have a precise idea of ​​the situation! Ditto for the walls inside. Because I know of cases of houses renovated with new insulation, which cost more than if we had razed and rebuilt something new!

So to avoid setbacks, I would do several measurements at regular intervals throughout the winter: it falls well, it has just begun ...) Then I will match the outer VS indoor measures and draw conclusions.

Then, according to the results, I will establish a specification to obtain the coefs that I will have proposed myself to reach. Because there can be no ready-made answers.

Before any renovation (which for me would be imperative insulation from the outside) I will make 3 scenario (at worst VS which will probably happen VS at best).

Until it's done (or something like that) there's no point in starting work on the sly. As long as we do not know what is happening with the foundations ...! So it would be better to start by excavating all around the front walls, a small trench, as deep as possible, given the terrain. But 1m minimum. Then I will put a bituminous coating (with elastomer, which will allow, if the house "moves" to guarantee long-term waterproofing)

Then I will put Delta MS® and fill with a quick glance at the drainage ... and so I will take my measurements the following year, to compare the measurements and see what has changed (by taking comparable periods in hygrometry and temperature ...)

[chatelot16]

whatever the insulation, it must be more watertight on the inside than on the outside: it is therefore easy when we put the wall inside, the insulation outside, and a cladding in anything to protect the insulation on the outside

with the insulation inside it is harder: it would take a wall inside the insulation better sealed than the wall ... the slightest leakage of the vapor barrier indoor air loaded with water will wet indefinitely the cold wall ... the classic vapor barrier of the glass wool does not work if the edges are not glued waterproof ... and as anyway it peeled as he wants it never works long

other way to compensate for the lack of waterproofness on the inside, leave a gap of air between the insulation and the wall, and ventilate with outside air: it makes completely lose the insulating quality of the wall since one circulates of cold air

this ventilation of the insulation is a trap: often it is not enough when the weather is wet and not very cold ... often it is excessive when it is very cold and there is wind ... but it's like that in the current building standards

[manny864]

[manny864]

[manny864]

[manny864]

[manny864]

here are some pictures.

The walls of the cellar are not humid at all. I do not see myself plating inside, it would spoil the charm of the old ... That's why I think of a beautiful clay plaster or other ...

I intend to heat the house with a wood boiler with a buffer tank of 2000L and cast iron radiators.

[manny864]

If I had such a construction "in inheritance" (or knowingly bought one "to hurt myself") the first thing that I would do (apart from the routine checks) is that I will bring a hygrometer and a laser thermocolorimeter ... Then I will "map" the facades to have a precise idea of ​​the situation! Ditto for the walls inside. Because I know of cases of houses renovated with new insulation, which cost more than if we had razed and rebuilt something new!

Thank you for this very good idea ...


And thank you to all the other people who take the time to answer me ... I wish you a happy holiday

[manny864]

everyone is on vacation ??? happy new year 2015 has all