Le Potager du Sloth: Gardening without fatigue more than Bio

[Rajqawee]

To continue on this subject, quickly, because it is worth it and it joins the philosophy of the lazy one.

When I started baking my bread, it wasn't working great, and one day we went to a ... agricultural festival (?) Where there was a sourdough bread workshop.

I asked a lot of questions to the guy (super nice), baker, who ran the workshop. My main problem was that my bread did not "burst" when baked. He gave me this demonstration, and it will stay with me all my life:

"To make bread, we mix water, salt and flour. We add sourdough or yeast. We mix quickly, no need to get excited for 20 minutes with ancestral gestures or kneaders or I don't know. You just stir to make a dough!

You let it rest for 2 to 3 hours, according to a lot of criteria that you will have to adjust, you know them: the temperature, the weather ... me in the bakery it is almost always the same, but on stormy days, heat + humidity makes things difficult. I still miss batches on days like this.
Then you shape your bread. You wait 1 to 2 hours according to the same criteria.

And then after you cook. And when it looks like it's cooked, it's usually done. In fact, there is nothing really complicated since it is the leaven that does everything. Often, when we don't know, we want to do lots of extra things to fill the space. It occupies. We mix more, we incorporate air, we put sugar, we use such a walnut kneader or I have no idea. Watch a bricklayer make a wall one day, there isn't a single unnecessary gesture! When we master, we only do what is useful because we have eliminated everything that is useless "

Just to re-tell it, I'm still baba! I have applied this since in my life, and it also applies to the garden!

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Obviously I don't believe in gardening with the moon either.

Even if I do not take it into account, because I find the current calendar too restrictive, there are certainly effects of the Moon but not necessarily those that we believe (day this, day that, ...). The researchers who looked into the subject did not all find the same things: some observed an effect of the days before the full moon, others saw that only certain plants reacted and others did not.

I would add that the Moon has significant and observable physical effects: the tides. And what we forget because we do not realize it, there is also an earth tide. So there may be effects on living things?

Some people have noticed that they sleep less well on full moon nights. One study quantified this effect:

"We found that around the full moon, the delta activity of the electroencephalogram (EEG) during NREM sleep, an indicator of deep sleep, decreased by 30%, the time to fall asleep increased by 5 min, and the duration Total sleep assessed by EEG was reduced by 20 min. These changes were associated with a decrease in the subjective quality of sleep and a decrease in endogenous melatonin levels. This is the first reliable evidence that a lunar rhythm can modulate the structure of sleep in humans when measured under the highly controlled conditions of a circadian laboratory study protocol with no indication of time. "
Source: https://www.cell.com/current-biology/fulltext/S0960-9822(13)00754-9

Simply, without animosity:
"The researchers who looked into the subject did not all find the same things: some observed an effect of the days before the full moon, others saw that only certain plants reacted and others did not."
In other words, they therefore found nothing at all. If they didn't start with the assumption that something exists, then he wouldn't have noticed anything in the data that suggests anything.

Regarding the study, see the wikipedia page on this subject:
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Influence ... ._Cajochen

Not reproduced, small sample, confirmation bias.
(but a study the year after shows may be something ... may be, mind you)

The problem with plants is, at our level, the near impossibility of making a serious comparison.

And we realize it every day
Right now it's sowing time
You have seeds that emerge in 5 days and others in 10 or 15
While they're in tubes against each other

And then, and I'm right in it, the growths 10cm apart once in the ground are totally different
If I say that I am in the middle of it, it is because I remove the small cabbage plants to put them in the greenhouse, no need for them to clutter up my chests.
Why 2 plants 20cm apart had VERY different growth

But that's not all
it would perhaps be necessary to go back to the seed and undoubtedly to its formation to know more
Are all seeds equal or are they, how to say, loaded with the same power of germination

Is there a stage of development of the seed invisible to the naked eye?
I mean: has a seed already started to germinate without being able to see it other than an electron microscope, while another is 15 days late, again without being able to see it?

In short, perhaps the study (I did not consult it) takes all these parameters into account
That this was done in test tubes with seeds identified as having all the same "capacities" under constant heat and light.

I have nothing against being convinced by the moon
Provided that we compare things on the quantity, the duration and in the same place
10 years of comparison in the same plot with hundreds of plants in each of the moon / non-moon plots
If during the 10 years 90% of the moon plants outperform the non-moon plants then ok we can deduce something

[Moindreffor]

I have nothing against being convinced by the moon
Provided that we compare things on the quantity, the duration and in the same place
10 years of comparison in the same plot with hundreds of plants in each of the moon / non-moon plots
If during the 10 years 90% of the moon plants outperform the non-moon plants then ok we can deduce something

the lunar calendar as we know it dates from 1963 so me neither I have nothing against, just that as much I like my freedom and having to follow a calendar I refuse to myself, I have not stopped working to be freer and put constraints on myself precisely where I seek my freedom, in my vegetable garden

So for me, if cultivating with the Moon had an impact, I think that our farmers who still measured the year in lunar cycles, equinoxes and solstices would have made us magnificent ...

I was offered a connected watch for Christmas, to the dismay of the family, because I don't wear it ... so the date

[VetusLignum]

For my part, I have found that storing garlic outside or inside does not change its propensity to germinate.
In addition, I have so many kinds of garlic that I am unable to predict from the color whether it will germinate in the fall or in the spring (in fact, they germinate more or less continuously between the autumn and spring). This distinction may relate to the main varieties used in France.
But if you wanted to do a full video on garlic and its varieties, you might need to allow at least 8 hours ...
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ail_cultiv%C3%A9
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garlic

Yes. I think it's more complicated:

- than what we say in general
- than what I say in the video

For next year, I'm going to make a "binder" with all the "scientific info". Because obviously, the picture is blurred by "habits and customs" - spring (or autumn) garlic? Is it like "winter leeks" which are leeks to be grown in summer to consume them in winter? Or like winter wheat, to be sown in autumn so that it overwinters and vernalizes and blooms? Or like "winter lettuce" which is lettuce sown in the fall, to grow very early in the spring ???

I spoke too fast.

Even if one of the ideas remains: plant them as soon as possible, because bulking will be done according to the length of the days ... With still variations: varieties of short days, varieties of long days ...

According to my little research, garlic comes from central Asia, ancient varieties capable of producing seeds have been found there.
Since then, as men have gotten into the habit of cutting flower stalks to produce nicer buds, garlic has generally lost this ability. It was therefore propagated by vegetative propagation, and it is to spontaneous genetic mutations that we owe the development of local varieties.

There would be genetically 3 groups and 10 subgroups of varieties:
- real hardneck (hard flower stalk): Porcelain, Rocambole, Purple stripe, Marbled Purple Stripe and Glazed Purple Stripe
- weak hardneck (flexible floral stalk): Creole, Asiatic and Turban
- soft neck (no flower stalk): silverskin and Artichoke
The Rose de Lautrec would be a Creole, the Violet de Cadours and the white Limagne from Artichoke, the Rose d'Auvergne a silverskin.

The varieties real hardneck are those which are closest to the species of origin.

The multiplication of garlic by bulbils (for varieties that have a floral stalk) is economical, and helps prevent the spread of soil diseases. The downside is that once planted, bulbils take several years to produce pods of a suitable size.

https://natureail.ca/
https://www.garlicfarm.ca/garlic-history.htm
https://www.garlicfarm.ca/garlic-bulbils.htm
https://www.garlicfarm.ca/article-garlic-seeds.htm
https://www.groeat.com/post/garlic-the- ... -varieties
https://sites.google.com/site/knowyourv ... -of-garlic
https://journals.ashs.org/jashs/view/jo ... e-p559.xml
http://www.bioline.org.br/pdf?cj08001
https://www.researchgate.net/publicatio ... 0/download
https://www.researchgate.net/publicatio ... d/download

From there, wouldn't a really lazy gait be (for the one with enough room):
- Reserve space for garlic
- Plant bulbils from different varieties
- Mulch regularly to maintain stable humidity conditions and nourish the soil
- Harvest (after having waited the necessary time, leaving the garlic in the ground) when the buds are sufficiently beautiful.
- Replant (in autumn) the bulbils from the most beautiful non-diseased buds (in order to create varieties adapted to its own conditions, and resistant to local pathogens)

[Moindreffor]

From there, wouldn't a really lazy gait be (for the one with enough room):
- Reserve space for garlic
- Plant bulbils from different varieties
- Mulch regularly to maintain stable humidity conditions and nourish the soil
- Harvest (after having waited the necessary time, leaving the garlic in the ground) when the buds are sufficiently beautiful.
- Replant (in autumn) the bulbils from the most beautiful non-diseased buds (in order to create varieties adapted to its own conditions, and resistant to local pathogens)

great research work
today I found a forgotten garlic from last year which grew, I left it, not far away a clump of "grass" that I don't like (don't ask me why it is like that) suddenly I pull it out and "PAN over the beak" it was not a herb but a clove of garlic, in fact all the pod that had germinated, so one stalk per clove, hence the tuft effect

we space the pods more or less 10cm to leave them room, so imagine 6 or 7 pods tight against each other, for the plant it would not be a problem but for the harvest or the grow not profitable, more another observation when you have a small pod that you plant you will have a small head or what is called a "round" I had some, and I forgot to plant them, again a "PAN on the beak" , this round should give you a bigger clove and therefore from this pod you pull the plants to further increase the size of the pod, until you have a size say "correct" or "maximum" therefore the cultivation of garlic without replant possible, it will stay in the ground, on the other hand to get a good harvest?
unless you consume the "round" which are the size of a beautiful pod, and therefore have a large number of plants

I recovered the small pods which had germinated and I transplanted them a little further to hope to have "circles"

otherwise I had recovered white onions from my seedling, I transplanted them in the middle of winter, they came out, so to follow, they are harvested in green

[VetusLignum]

From there, wouldn't a really lazy gait be (for the one with enough room):
- Reserve space for garlic
- Plant bulbils from different varieties
- Mulch regularly to maintain stable humidity conditions and nourish the soil
- Harvest (after having waited the necessary time, leaving the garlic in the ground) when the buds are sufficiently beautiful.
- Replant (in autumn) the bulbils from the most beautiful non-diseased buds (in order to create varieties adapted to its own conditions, and resistant to local pathogens)

great research work
today I found a forgotten garlic from last year which grew, I left it, not far away a clump of "grass" that I don't like (don't ask me why it is like that) suddenly I pull it out and "PAN over the beak" it was not a herb but a clove of garlic, in fact all the pod that had germinated, so one stalk per clove, hence the tuft effect

we space the pods more or less 10cm to leave them room, so imagine 6 or 7 pods tight against each other, for the plant it would not be a problem but for the harvest or the grow not profitable, more another observation when you have a small pod that you plant you will have a small head or what is called a "round" I had some, and I forgot to plant them, again a "PAN on the beak" , this round should give you a bigger clove and therefore from this pod you pull the plants to further increase the size of the pod, until you have a size say "correct" or "maximum" therefore the cultivation of garlic without replant possible, it will stay in the ground, on the other hand to get a good harvest?
unless you consume the "round" which are the size of a beautiful pod, and therefore have a large number of plants

I recovered the small pods which had germinated and I transplanted them a little further to hope to have "circles"

otherwise I had recovered white onions from my seedling, I transplanted them in the middle of winter, they came out, so to follow, they are harvested in green

My idea was to start from the bulbil, and harvest the pods after 2, 3, or 4 years (and therefore, to leave the little heads in the ground).
It would therefore require more space than with current practices, but for those who have it, it could be interesting to test.

[Moindreffor]

My idea was to start from the bulbil, and harvest the pods after 2, 3, or 4 years (and therefore, to leave the little heads in the ground).
It would therefore require more space than with current practices, but for those who have it, it could be interesting to test.

yes that's what I understood, but you see my little head of garlic left in the ground gave 6 or 7 losses so potentially 6 or 7 new heads of garlic or rounds so 6 or 7 heads of garlic l 'the following year and if we still leave if these 6 or 7 give 6 or 7, we could have 49 heads of garlic on 10cm², what size do you think they would be?

[VetusLignum]

My idea was to start from the bulbil, and harvest the pods after 2, 3, or 4 years (and therefore, to leave the little heads in the ground).
It would therefore require more space than with current practices, but for those who have it, it could be interesting to test.

yes that's what I understood, but you see my little head of garlic left in the ground gave 6 or 7 losses so potentially 6 or 7 new heads of garlic or rounds so 6 or 7 heads of garlic l 'the following year and if we still leave if these 6 or 7 give 6 or 7, we could have 49 heads of garlic on 10cm², what size do you think they would be?

It's to be tested, and it should depend on the strain.
I had left a head of garlic for 2-3 years in one spot, and when I finally harvested, there were several good sized heads deep down.

[Biobomb]

They look tough!

I've never seen that at home!

I forgot to mention that this year the cloves were planted in a favorable moon, CQFD.

[Adrien (ex-nico239)]

Preparation of an open field tomato field