Tool for making fire starters

Help and advice for all work carried out in self building and presentation of your work DIY or self-build. Because making oneself is often econological but beware overconfidence!
Ahmed
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by Ahmed » 30/04/17, 09:03

What you are doing is very good, but different from my initial problem: I wanted to split small fairly thin boards (9mm) and not logs.
To avoid matting * on the back of your hatchet, it would be possible to use a wooden or rubber mallet (for the latter, see in a store of building materials and equipment).

Note: there is matting because this part of the ax iron is not subjected to quenching, but this practice would be dangerous if that were the case, since the steel would come off in fragments ... The rule being to never hit a hardened steel with a hardened tool: a blacksmith never taps on the anvil with his hammer, even if it is customary to simply bounce it (without force) before applying the real blows wrought iron.
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by Ahmed » 02/05/17, 13:15

For you, Flytox, I found a video of a apparatus that meets your wishes.
I find that it is not very convenient, especially since the non-articulated model (classic) allows to file the piece of wood at the first stroke and therefore to remove the hand for the following strike (s).

Note: I went down about 5 cm) the blade-spacers assembly so that the widest boards do not get caught by moving away from the blade to come and lock against the protection ring: such a height was not necessary for the actual splitting.

Question: how to display the video directly? (I know that a nice moderator arranges things, but I would prefer to do it myself so as not to abuse ... : Oops: ).
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by izentrop » 02/05/17, 14:02

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1FVPMbX6Bs

First click on the last icon pointed by the red arrow:

video.jpg
video.jpg (26.86 KB) Viewed 2908 times
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Ahmed
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by Ahmed » 02/05/17, 14:40

Thank you very much, Izentrop: I had never paid attention to this symbol, perhaps because it is located on the far right? : Wink: : Lol:
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by Flytox » 02/05/17, 23:06

Ahmed wrote:For you, Flytox, I found a video of a apparatus that meets your wishes.
I find that it is not very convenient, especially since the non-articulated model (classic) allows to file the piece of wood at the first stroke and therefore to remove the hand for the following strike (s).

Note: I went down about 5 cm) the blade-spacers assembly so that the widest boards do not get caught by moving away from the blade to come and lock against the protection ring: such a height was not necessary for the actual splitting.


It's something like that crossed my mind. Bulk ideas:
* If the guy fixed his tool to the block, it would already be more efficient and would be less likely to get lost. : Mrgreen:
* In the same way a slightly heavier mallet would be better.
* 2 small cones instead of a tube should ensure better centering / ease of opening when pushing the log.
* It must be relatively easy to make a foot command to open its clamp system and thus facilitate the evacuation of the split wood or the repositioning of the log.

As Lao Tzu said: If it doesn't fit, take a heavier hammer! : Mrgreen: (Well maybe it was Confucius but the principle remains the same)
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Ahmed
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by Ahmed » 03/05/17, 11:31

Yes, your comments seem relevant to me and correspond to those I made when watching this video. The simple version that I tinkered with, however, suits me, given my needs.

I see that you are a fine connoisseur of traditional Chinese philosophy! : Lol:

More generally, if I find the idea of ​​this smart (New Zealand) girl (if the story is true) and the resulting achievement interesting, I am very dubious about the legal "strength" of the patent filed in this subject. Indeed, there are two criteria out of three that are not respected: inventiveness and novelty. The first because reversing the respective direction of the blade and the piece of wood does not require significant inventive faculties and the second because this operating mode was already part of the state of the art, such as for example the use of the slicer anvil at the blacksmiths (the piece of metal reddened is placed on a blade-shaped tool which is housed, cutting edge up, in the square hole [hardy-hole], then hit with the hammer until separated
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by Ahmed » 05/05/17, 22:08

For those who would be tempted by the realization of such a tool, here is what I would give as advice: from the basic principle, use elements in your possession or that you have the possibility of recovering, without focusing on a reproduction Alike.
For example, if you don't have a gas cylinder, why not use a car brake disc? It is an easy to find wearing part, already intrinsically stable enough and which can be easily fixed (by means of two or three holes) on a wooden block as a base.
My realization probably fishes by an excess of solidity and a simplification of the construction would certainly be possible, which I intend to check by repeating ... It is probable that the vertical round rod located under the ax of ax is useless: the spacers would be more than enough to resist functional efforts. It is possible to have a square protection, instead of round, above the device: it is much easier to carry out and does not harm anything in use (remember to orient the blade according to one of the two diagonals ).
Last advice: do not make the mistake of dispensing yourself with this superior protection, it would be completely contrary to the spirit of this tool which aims above all to provide maximum security.

Here is a photo taken after lowering the assembly supporting the blade; next to it, a one-piece, "old-fashioned" mallet (a bit big for this application):
IMG0019A.jpg
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Re: Tool for making firelighters




by Ahmed » 21/05/17, 21:59

Two other tips:
- The first, of a general nature: the reuse of painted metallic objects leads, during welding operations, to the release of gas from the burning of peripheral paints. These fumes being irritating to the respiratory tract and very toxic, it is advisable to operate either outside, or in a well ventilated place, in order to breathe as little as possible. Mechanical pickling prior to welding, on the other hand, gives off fine dust which is not much better: respiratory protection is therefore not a luxury.
- the second concerns the tool, the photo of which is found in the previous message: the blade needs to be thin to initiate the slit, but it does not need to be as long as on the model presented, 1,5 cm is sufficient for this purpose and also allow the wood to be held in place as soon as a first hit is made. By meeting the retractor faster, the burst occurs more quickly. I will follow this recommendation when making my next device! : Wink:
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