1er Heat Accumulation floor house in summer - solutions?

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
LOGIC12
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Re: Heat build up 1er floor house in summer - solutions?




by LOGIC12 » 29/04/16, 20:46

hello, You should also know that polystyrene are very good for protecting themselves from the cold, they are much worse for protecting themselves from the heat.

The glass wool or rock is a little better. And the best is the wood fiber.

For the warmth of the wall, is the facade light in color (close to white) or is it strong enough? that also plays. The wall on which the sun is tapering will be warmer with a steady color.

It is certain that the tiles are never very clear and that it always heats below, even if the air passes.

There would be the solution to breathe fresh air (price in the shade of the house) and put the attic overpressure. it would chase hot air that would be replaced by less hot air. And it works when it's hot, or even at night to cool the attic.

I know someone who has made something like that with a recovery hood, which has a pretty strong flow. (about 300m3 / hour.
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Obamot
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Re: Heat build up 1er floor house in summer - solutions?




by Obamot » 29/04/16, 23:28

I tried a thermodynamic system of this order last summer during the heat wave (the hottest since 30 years). Only I had a mobile air conditioning unit in the room to cool and an exhaust duct of ø20 cm and I could let the fresh air from the cellar, climb through the stairwell (located north, northeast), to be sucked and expelled by the air conditioning machine that forced the hot air out .

Here is the temperature outside in the street:

IMG_1319.JPG


The system was regulated by opening a few millimeters the door of the floor under the eaves, where was the room to be cooled. When the air passed, it was the typical noise that one would imagine the air circulating in a haunted house. : Cheesy: (This one was de facto since I was there ^ ^) We could make the sound more or less acute, and the higher the frequency range was better was the draw because the faster air circulated ... (It was played at mm, door almost closed) But we never went below 24 ° C / 26 ° C the day when all was well:

IMG_1309.JPG


What made a ∆º up to 25 ° C inside VS outside (still not so bad, but I am unable to say how many m3 / h circulated in this "system" if you have a Logic12 idea?) .. and 28 ° C up to 32 ° C when the setting was messed up. We then had to wait until 22 p.m. and sometimes 00 a.m. to see the temperature start to drop significantly. Very important was also when the windows would be closed in the morning. Because it was absolutely necessary to close everything to keep the interior cool before the temperature rises above 2 ° C. However, the room to be cooled is located due north and the sun is only there from noon until sunset ...

At night I left everything open to drop the temperature to the lowest level by circulating the air everywhere. But when we do that we do not attack the causes and the result is not guaranteed when we have a stack effect (thermal bridge) by the walls of facade, problem that I do not have in my home since they are set back at least 2,5m thanks to a generous eave ...! Not benefiting from an ITE in this rented vacation apartment I was a little in the same configuration as the subject of this thread and for the parts located in the south, nothing would have done despite a modest ITI extruded. So it can work for a room to the north, but for the rest the result would be only cosmetic and in my humble opinion.
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LOGIC12
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Re: Heat build up 1er floor house in summer - solutions?




by LOGIC12 » 09/11/16, 10:22

Hello, I already asked the question: what is the color of the exterior walls? very clear or sustained.

Between a wall painted white or off-white, and a gray wall anthracite or brick color (tone supported), the surface temperature varies significantly. If the wall is dark, it can be very hot in summer, especially if it is in direct sunlight. Here it is already a track.
Then there may be polystyrene in the walls with brick wall, but it may be glass wool.

And in the south, it's hard to get fresh.

Watch out for cellar air that may contain radon and mold.

There is probably the VMC that sucks in hot air.

And also, the ceiling of the ground floor. is probably a concrete slab that represents a mass of concrete slab that heats slowly and cools slowly (inertia) while upstairs, there are farms and LV probably.

To cut the heat, there are deciduous trees preferably not to deprive of sunshine in winter, the clear color of the walls ext. and then the insulation from the outside that protects the wall from heat as cold, but here also stay on light colors (it is also recommended when isolating).
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