Renewal of wood heating system

[david04]

Hello everyone.

What a gold mine forum, lots of good advice and tips, incomparable.

I have an old stone house (wall 100 thick), not necessarily well insulated and composed of two bodies separated by a stone wall of 80 cm.
a body has a surface of 41 m² on the ground and a floor of identical surface. The second, 36 m² with also a floor of the same surface.

The floors are wooden (sbth) covered with floating parquet, and placed on beams and plasterboard partitions.
The new roof, perfectly insulated.

Currently, the largest of the sides is heated with an old insert of 7 kw which ended up splitting so much that we asked for it, and the small one with a stove of 4 kw. it's cold on both sides. (17 ° and 15 °)

Geographically, I am in a villa in the Alps, at an altitude of 1 meters, the snow is abundant and the daily negative temperatures in winter.

My project is as follows:

Redo the window frames that were not redone when the joinery was changed (everything was done with double glazing); and at the same time install shutters that had never been put on by the former owner.

Then replace the two heaters with one. This one will be placed in the largest of the bodies and its smoke evacuation pipe will cross the separation wall of the two bodies to rise in apparent (straight on of course) through the stairwell and finish its course in its leads to the upper floor.
all along the passage of the conduit, covering the stone wall in refractory bricks.
I therefore count on the recovery of the heat of the fumes, the radiation of the bricks and the inertia of the wall to heat this body.

the stove in question would be a Franco Belgian, Norman model, 13 kW nominal, given for 500 m3 of volume and yield of 79,9%, traded at 1 euros.

I know that the budget is not huge but the situation means that I do not have more ...

Do you think that the solution is viable, if necessary should I plan to add an aid to the circulation of air from the stove to the other body.

Or do I have to completely revise my copy.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
David

[bernardd]

Félicitations!

I picture your house badly, but passing the chimney flue through the stairwell does not seem to me the best. But it is certainly a detail compared to the rest :-)

Personally, I would also keep the small stove, if only for mid-season when the big one is not necessary.

do you have sun in winter This is often the case at altitude, where there is sometimes more sun in winter than in summer :-) If this is the case, you can think of putting some thermal sensors in the years to come.

By the way, how is your hot water made?

[david04]

in fact, it is at the base of two attached houses (at the time, at least two centuries ago, it was barns), which the former owner made communicate on the ground floor and the l 'floor.
this makes a rectangular block which is separated in two by a load-bearing wall.

The conduit already passes through the stairwell at present, but the tubes are simply put in an insulated trunk. the idea of ​​leaving them visible to recover the heat just occurred to me to feel this heat through the trunk

sun level from 10 a.m. to 15 p.m. because the mountain opposite cuts the rest of the time. later, a large picture window is envisaged later (finance obliges) to take advantage of the influence.

concerning the sensors, few hours of sunshine and many aesthetic constraints (classified area).

Currently hot water is provided by electric water heaters.

I admit having considered the possibility of a mass stove (self-built) embedded in the separation wall but I am afraid of not following myself financially and I am not sure of the overall efficiency either. .

[bernardd]

The conduit already passes through the stairwell at present, but the tubes are simply put in an insulated trunk. the idea of ​​leaving them visible to recover the heat just occurred to me to feel this heat through the trunk

It's better to recover, that's for sure! I even wanted to pass the smoke through a VMC double flow exchanger ;-) You may have condensation at the bottom of the vertical tube.

I said that just because the heat rises directly to the top of the stairwell instead of heating the ground floor first and then the floor.

Just as if you lower the height of the ceiling in a bathroom and especially in the shower, you gain a lot in comfort and energy.

sun level from 10 a.m. to 15 p.m. because the mountain opposite cuts the rest of the time. later, a large picture window is envisaged later (finance obliges) to take advantage of the influence.

The bay window is not really useful on the energy side because it loses more than it lets in. A solar collector is more effective because it does not lose anything in the absence of sun, provided that it is self-draining. You can also put them on a wall, not on the roof, which may be easier.

If you put a tank full of water, it's the equivalent of a mass stove, for much less.

[david04]

ok, I understand the idea of ​​the cylinder ...

I asked myself the question of the picture window.
we considered it because the sun is very strong and in the bedrooms, you can't stay in front of the windows larger than those in the living room.
not to mention the additional brightness.

[bernardd]

Brightness and heating are 2 different subjects: frequent exposure to the sun gives you vitamin D which allows you to better resist diseases, which allows you to bear a lower ambient temperature :-)

Frankly, if you have so much sunshine, you will certainly find a place to put thermal solar panels. Vacuum packed because they are better suited to the cold atmosphere.

Even if only on the wall next to your future window :-) I saw several chalets equipped like this in the Jura, which is most effective when the sun is low on the horizon.

Even put a joint, to raise it and make a pergola in summer.

[aerialcastor]

The bay window is not really useful on the energy side because it loses more than it lets in.

This is true in many cases, but a southern orientation (to about twenty degrees) without a sun mask and good management of the shutter opening opening is very thermally efficient.
It is one of the basic principles of a bioclimatic house.

Frankly, if you have so much sunshine, you will certainly find a place to put thermal solar panels. Vacuum packed because they are better suited to the cold atmosphere.

Even if only on the wall next to your future window :-) I saw several chalets equipped like this in the Jura, which is most effective when the sun is low on the horizon.

Even put a joint, to raise it and make a pergola in summer.

Indeed the sensors on the walls are a very good solution, I still do not understand why not see more.
If the installation is designed for winter, there is not even a need for articulation.
And there is also no need for protection against overheating, since the angle of incidence is high enough to avoid the intake of calories.

[david04]

the window may be future is indeed full south.
the temperature difference between this side of the house and the other (outside) is easily 10 °.
indeed south side (there is my garage) I am in sweet and everything is fine, north side, it is the down jacket and we shiver (the snow does not melt for 4 months).
on the other hand as soon as the sun passes behind the mountain, return to the north pole

[david04]

finally, change of idea.
we will open the central wall on 2,20 m by 2.20 m, same height as the neighboring door, and make a counter on the part not used by the stove (the end of the low wall will not be cut in full).
it goes without saying that the top of the wall will be reinforced with a lintel.
the rear of the stove will be clad with a low brick wall.

blow of the operation, not a euro more! I have the materials and a male friend give me a helping hand against a mechanical helping hand on his collection grandma

everything benefits and we are sure to really heat both sides while improving the volume effect of the kitchen

[david04]

Good morning all.

Some news about my installation and the feeling one winter later and at the start of the second season.

So I put my stove as expected, namely in an opening made in the central wall. This one is ultimately 220 long by 180 high. For lack of time, we dropped the refractory bricks and put a simple placo.

Tables and window lintels were done according to the rules.

We mainly heated with 10 month cut fayard.

concerning the stove, pure happiness both in terms of consumption and temperature control.
In the middle of the season, we avoid switching to "double combustion" by leaving it in dormant mode and with few embers. We get a gentle heat.
On average, 22 ° on the ground floor and 20 ° on the first floor.
A simple backup heater for the bathroom has been added for greater comfort.

In the middle of the season or in need of heating, we make more embers and double combustion then stabilize.

Overall we load a log every 4 hours in 60 and for the night two on top of each other. In the morning, just put a new one on the embers

Next step envisaged, a solar water heater once the budget has been met.